recomenfation for 5.4 triton with startup clatter

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: jaynissan12
Yeah I read that in there too, exhaust systems can be funny sometimes. I never experienced it with any other engine though, weird albeit the one I experienced was the 3valve version. There was one guy in that discussion that described it as piston slap, according to him it ended up being just that, but instead of it being harmless, the engine threw a rod not long after. Makes ya wonder.


Yeah that one was probably rod knock not slap.

 

[HankHill]

So after a cold start last night and much straining, bending, contorting, and listening, it does seem to be valvetrain clatter.

No offense to the suggestion on MMO, but I just can't justify using it. Oil or gas, no offense intended, but ive personalally seen it make clatter worse in a cherokee.

So now that I believe its rocker/valvetrain noise, (granted I didnt have my stethoscope to isolate) are there any solutions available?

Again, no offense to the MMO offer. I appreciate all suggestions.

Thanks for all the responses guys and gals??

 

[OVERKILL]

Could try a different oil. I use M1 AFE 0w-30 in mine, it has close to 200,000 miles on it.

 

[jaynissan12]

Agree with OVERKILL, Different oil, maybe a different filter. If the noise is in the valve train area could also check the injectors, they are known to be loud with solenoid "clunk". Either one of these things can cause the noise to pop up all of a sudden.

 

[HankHill]

So its definitely not the injectors, I know the sound they make very well (pretty noisey in these trucks).

Ive owned it for half a year, and it never made this noise until the ambient temperature outside dipped below forty.

It has new plugs, some of the coils packs were replaced, egr, pcv, both manifolds.... good fun. Always use motorcraft filters and the 5-20 mc oil.

So my next step is going to try M1 0w-20. Should I go for the 30, or too thick for the design??

 

[jaynissan12]

Originally Posted By: HankHill
So its definitely not the injectors, I know the sound they make very well (pretty noisey in these trucks).

Ive owned it for half a year, and it never made this noise until the ambient temperature outside dipped below forty.

It has new plugs, some of the coils packs were replaced, egr, pcv, both manifolds.... good fun. Always use motorcraft filters and the 5-20 mc oil.

So my next step is going to try M1 0w-20. Should I go for the 30, or too thick for the design??


I don't think going thicker would hurt a thing and would be an option to help quieten down some valvetrain noise. Most 5w30 or 0w30 are not far off from being a 20w anyways. I ran Havoline synthetic 5w30, which is on the thin side of 30 with no ill affect, couldn't tell a difference in mileage or anything. Now mind you this was with a 3valve version that spec'd 5w20. Exactly how long does this noise last? is it more of a lifter peck or an actual loud knock?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: HankHill
So its definitely not the injectors, I know the sound they make very well (pretty noisey in these trucks).

Ive owned it for half a year, and it never made this noise until the ambient temperature outside dipped below forty.

It has new plugs, some of the coils packs were replaced, egr, pcv, both manifolds.... good fun. Always use motorcraft filters and the 5-20 mc oil.

So my next step is going to try M1 0w-20. Should I go for the 30, or too thick for the design??



Ewwwwwww just remembered something else!! When a plug is getting ready to launch, it starts to tick like an exhaust leak you can't find. Ask me how I know

If you did the plugs yourself, I would re-check #3 and #4 (if that's the side the noise is on) as they are the hardest to get torqued down correctly.

 

[jaynissan12]

I had two blown plugs due to that same reason, good thinking OVERKILL. they weren't blown out of the head but man they were loose. seems I remember smelling gas too when they were like that, disappeared when I changed the plugs and torqued them in, misfires told on it in my situation though. BTW, I didn't need the special tool to remove the plugs on this one (2006 model) like I did on the 2004 model, I think I only got like 2 out without breaking the the collar off, the other 6 was a PITA.

 

[OVERKILL]

Yeah, the 2V has the regular short plugs, they are just down 6" deep holes, no special tool required other than perhaps a swivel extension.

The only symptom I experienced was the sound of an exhaust leak of sorts that I couldn't find. A few weeks later POP!!!! and then the truck sounded like a bag of poo. Drove it up to Ford and they had a mobile machine shop come and put the Lock-N-Stitch insert in #8. Has been fine since.

 

[HankHill]

Soooo, Interestingly enough... When the temp gets real low, say -10 F, the noise is almost gone, until the motor warms up.

[censored]? over?

When I get paid in two weeks I'll be changing over to M1 0w-30, If I can find it for a reasonable price.

 

[Black_Thunder]

if you do end up checking your spark plugs i would torque them to 28 ft lbs.

word has it the reason they had so many plug launches weren't because of the few thread in the head but because they weren't tightened enough allowing the spark plugs to loosen up and pound against the threads eventually leading to them launching out.

 

[DoubleWasp]

I wouldn't even think about to quint a spark plug into a Ford modular aluminum cylinder head to 28 ft/lb. That's begging to tear the threads out.

 

[Black_Thunder]

this is from a company that specializes in engine head repairs.

"Q: Do you have special techniques for installing the regular plugs during a tune up type plug change to help stop the dreaded blown out spark plug?
A: Yes, Use an air blast before and after plug removal to clean any debris that may affect the seating of the replacement spark plug. Using a small power wire brush or other device remove all carbon from the plug seating area. Torque the replacement spark plugs to 28 foot lbs. In our opinion these 3 items added to a standard spark plug change will guarantee the best success."


here's the link

its the 28th one down on the Faq's list

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

 

[Black_Thunder]

also listed under the q and a portion

"Q: I do not have any issues right now but after all the reading I have done about blown out spark plugs I am questioning the dependability of my Ford engine. What should I do?
A: You have 3 options. 1-Run it as is. 2-If you have fresh plugs installed re-torque them to 28 foot lbs. 3-Replace the spark plugs making sure that you use an air blast before and after plug removal to clean any debris that may affect the seating of the replacement spark plug. Torque the replacement spark plugs to 28 foot lbs."

"Q: Why do you prefer 28 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure."

 

[racin4ds]

Turned 221,000 miles on my 01 5.4 this week and it still runs as good as new. Has a very small oil leak that just started and its only the oil pressure sending unit. No blown plugs or ANY other issues here but I run 5w30 in it, always have. Its a truck and it gets beat. It tows and its lifted on 35's. Save the 5w20 for the cars trying to get 30mpg...