Cracking Bathroom Paint - Calling Bob Vila Types
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Just a suggestion: If you think it won't cure properly, wait to do it until the hottest month of summer, daily air conditioner use will suck the moisture right out of it. You could rent a salamander or dehumidifier if you really need to get it done now. If you have a second bathroom, not using this one to shower in until it cures will really help.
I used to have a pail of Kilz around just for mold. First sign of mold I would wash the area with bleach, wipe down with clean water, and paint over with Kilz. Great reason to paint your bathroom white, not some goofy color!
I used to have a pail of Kilz around just for mold. First sign of mold I would wash the area with bleach, wipe down with clean water, and paint over with Kilz. Great reason to paint your bathroom white, not some goofy color!
Originally Posted By: Quest
(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.
Why would an oil based paint be unacceptable???
(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.
Why would an oil based paint be unacceptable???
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: Quest
(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.
Why would an oil based paint be unacceptable???
Oil paint is a breeding ground for mildew, it would be a bad choice.
Originally Posted By: Quest
(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.
Why would an oil based paint be unacceptable???
Oil paint is a breeding ground for mildew, it would be a bad choice.
Originally Posted By: Marco620
80 grit or whatever. BIN Shellac is awesome for mold and fire and for priming stain/mold spots. After that use the peelstop as it really has monkey grip bonding properties and will hold very well. Zinsser also makesa mildew fighting additive for issues like yours. You might look into using it if you cant find a vinyl acrylic latex bathroom paint. I spent 7 yrs at sherwin williams so i've seen almost everything though I bought my peelstop and other zinsser accessories at menards.
I always used the Bin Shellac (2 coats) on a condo I had that was 30 feet from Lake Erie. Worked like a charm and lasted 20 years until I sold the place. I would then use 2 coats of semi gloss over the Bin. Tough as nails.
Also, get a higher capacity exhaust fan and make sure it is vented with a hose at least 10 feet into the attic or outside.
80 grit or whatever. BIN Shellac is awesome for mold and fire and for priming stain/mold spots. After that use the peelstop as it really has monkey grip bonding properties and will hold very well. Zinsser also makesa mildew fighting additive for issues like yours. You might look into using it if you cant find a vinyl acrylic latex bathroom paint. I spent 7 yrs at sherwin williams so i've seen almost everything though I bought my peelstop and other zinsser accessories at menards.
I always used the Bin Shellac (2 coats) on a condo I had that was 30 feet from Lake Erie. Worked like a charm and lasted 20 years until I sold the place. I would then use 2 coats of semi gloss over the Bin. Tough as nails.
Also, get a higher capacity exhaust fan and make sure it is vented with a hose at least 10 feet into the attic or outside.
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Originally Posted By: Marco620
80 grit or whatever. BIN Shellac is awesome for mold and fire and for priming stain/mold spots. After that use the peelstop as it really has monkey grip bonding properties and will hold very well. Zinsser also makesa mildew fighting additive for issues like yours. You might look into using it if you cant find a vinyl acrylic latex bathroom paint. I spent 7 yrs at sherwin williams so i've seen almost everything though I bought my peelstop and other zinsser accessories at menards.
No disrespect intended. Bin Shellac is a good primer however it has several short comings. It dries too fast and is more brittle than a latex or oil primer. Smoke, fire, puff backs, water, damage, knots, etc. is where Bin really shines. The situation the OP has is better served the way I suggested.
With regard to Peel Stop it is better to apply Peel Stop first, then a primer over it. Peel Stop is ultra thin and designed to penetrate lousy porous paint, Bin will not allow Peel Stop to do its job because of how well it seals.
Any good paint store has Kitchen and Bath paints, and they can be tinted in just about any color you like, unless it's some off the wall ultra deep color.
80 grit or whatever. BIN Shellac is awesome for mold and fire and for priming stain/mold spots. After that use the peelstop as it really has monkey grip bonding properties and will hold very well. Zinsser also makesa mildew fighting additive for issues like yours. You might look into using it if you cant find a vinyl acrylic latex bathroom paint. I spent 7 yrs at sherwin williams so i've seen almost everything though I bought my peelstop and other zinsser accessories at menards.
No disrespect intended. Bin Shellac is a good primer however it has several short comings. It dries too fast and is more brittle than a latex or oil primer. Smoke, fire, puff backs, water, damage, knots, etc. is where Bin really shines. The situation the OP has is better served the way I suggested.
With regard to Peel Stop it is better to apply Peel Stop first, then a primer over it. Peel Stop is ultra thin and designed to penetrate lousy porous paint, Bin will not allow Peel Stop to do its job because of how well it seals.
Any good paint store has Kitchen and Bath paints, and they can be tinted in just about any color you like, unless it's some off the wall ultra deep color.
OP, like the gents said, you probably didn't have any primer at all, or a very bad/cheap contractor paint on the drywall.
saw this when i took the paper down in 2.5 baths in my home....
demarpaint, Marco620 and sleddriver,
what do you say about using the paint + primer eggshell in a next to the bathroom (a sink on a wall next to the shower/bathtub room).
had some mold, used bleach, than mold locker, than 2 times zinser primer , than 2 times paint + primer paint.
Thanks
[/OT]
saw this when i took the paper down in 2.5 baths in my home....
demarpaint, Marco620 and sleddriver,
what do you say about using the paint + primer eggshell in a next to the bathroom (a sink on a wall next to the shower/bathtub room).
had some mold, used bleach, than mold locker, than 2 times zinser primer , than 2 times paint + primer paint.
Thanks
[/OT]
It seems that the root problem is adhesion failure. No one here can prove that it was poor paint drying, dirty/greasy substrate under the previous coat(s), lack of primer, cheap paint, oil-latex interaction, or anything else.
What worries me in these instances is what if the current good paint areas are only a year away from failing. You go through all the recommended steps, then the paint on the current "good" areas fail and also take your new paint job with them.
Is this clear? Sand and fix the bad areas. Prep the "good" areas less. Then these areas fail underneath your new job.
Comments?
What worries me in these instances is what if the current good paint areas are only a year away from failing. You go through all the recommended steps, then the paint on the current "good" areas fail and also take your new paint job with them.
Is this clear? Sand and fix the bad areas. Prep the "good" areas less. Then these areas fail underneath your new job.
Comments?
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
It seems that the root problem is adhesion failure. No one here can prove that it was poor paint drying, dirty/greasy substrate under the previous coat(s), lack of primer, cheap paint, oil-latex interaction, or anything else.
What worries me in these instances is what if the current good paint areas are only a year away from failing. You go through all the recommended steps, then the paint on the current "good" areas fail and also take your new paint job with them.
Is this clear? Sand and fix the bad areas. Prep the "good" areas less. Then these areas fail underneath your new job.
Comments?
You're spot on! I said in my first post this: "Before I start let me say, it might come back. Make sure you get every bit of failed paint off."
The problem is the moisture over time got through the flat paint film and caused it to fail. The OP claimed he saw raw or naked drywall paper, that usually indicates there was no primer used or a poor quality primer was used. In some cases it indicates the person who did the painting might have primed or painted over drywall dust. Flat paint in a bathroom is a major NO NO, no matter what is under it!
Any time you have a paint failure you run the risk of it failing again. The job is only as good as the person doing it. If the OP wants a job that will be less prone to failure he should re-sheetrock the bathroom. Stripping paint chemically, or using a wheat paste cocktail to remove it from drywall sets up a whole new set of problems. Sanding it all down can damage the face of the drywall.
The method I suggested is what I would do if I was hired to do the job. I've done it with a 100% success rate, however most people don't want to pay the price so the jobs are far and few between.
It seems that the root problem is adhesion failure. No one here can prove that it was poor paint drying, dirty/greasy substrate under the previous coat(s), lack of primer, cheap paint, oil-latex interaction, or anything else.
What worries me in these instances is what if the current good paint areas are only a year away from failing. You go through all the recommended steps, then the paint on the current "good" areas fail and also take your new paint job with them.
Is this clear? Sand and fix the bad areas. Prep the "good" areas less. Then these areas fail underneath your new job.
Comments?
You're spot on! I said in my first post this: "Before I start let me say, it might come back. Make sure you get every bit of failed paint off."
The problem is the moisture over time got through the flat paint film and caused it to fail. The OP claimed he saw raw or naked drywall paper, that usually indicates there was no primer used or a poor quality primer was used. In some cases it indicates the person who did the painting might have primed or painted over drywall dust. Flat paint in a bathroom is a major NO NO, no matter what is under it!
Any time you have a paint failure you run the risk of it failing again. The job is only as good as the person doing it. If the OP wants a job that will be less prone to failure he should re-sheetrock the bathroom. Stripping paint chemically, or using a wheat paste cocktail to remove it from drywall sets up a whole new set of problems. Sanding it all down can damage the face of the drywall.
The method I suggested is what I would do if I was hired to do the job. I've done it with a 100% success rate, however most people don't want to pay the price so the jobs are far and few between.
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Originally Posted By: pandus13
demarpaint, Marco620 and sleddriver,
what do you say about using the paint + primer eggshell in a next to the bathroom (a sink on a wall next to the shower/bathtub room).
had some mold, used bleach, than mold locker, than 2 times zinser primer , than 2 times paint + primer paint.
Thanks
[/OT]
Self priming paint is OK. Its purpose was to market to the DIY'er to make a job sound easier with less steps. The product isn't bad but.........Primer plus paint is always better. Self priming paints work well in flat finishes when you've done some light spackling, plan on two coats, and don't want to spot prime the spackling. In time those areas can flash, so primer plus paint is always better.
demarpaint, Marco620 and sleddriver,
what do you say about using the paint + primer eggshell in a next to the bathroom (a sink on a wall next to the shower/bathtub room).
had some mold, used bleach, than mold locker, than 2 times zinser primer , than 2 times paint + primer paint.
Thanks
[/OT]
Self priming paint is OK. Its purpose was to market to the DIY'er to make a job sound easier with less steps. The product isn't bad but.........Primer plus paint is always better. Self priming paints work well in flat finishes when you've done some light spackling, plan on two coats, and don't want to spot prime the spackling. In time those areas can flash, so primer plus paint is always better.
Come to think of it, after I did my two coats I did 123 zinsser on entire surface and left dry for whole day. Paint n Primer is okay for diy but I went with SW Duration Satin because its <50 Voc and was anti-microbial. I cant put enough stress on prep being probably more important than even the paint. My bathroom turned out great with my efforts and has held out well since. I'm a bit snotty about cheap primers and cheap motor oil and hold a place in me mind of you get what you pay for which is why I would only recommend Zinsser or XIM for all prep work. Kudos to demarpaint to put the whole paint thing in perspective. Its been 8yrs since I was at SW so sometimes I do admit to forgetting minor details. Great discussion through and through : )
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Self priming paint is OK. Its purpose was to market to the DIY'er to make a job sound easier with less steps. The product isn't bad but.........Primer plus paint is always better. Self priming paints work well in flat finishes when you've done some light spackling, plan on two coats, and don't want to spot prime the spackling. In
time those areas can flash, so primer plus paint is always better.
Thanks demarpaint. i used the paint just because i found a store with a lot of "oops" batches.
quick crazy question, what do you do when you paint around a big (wide/tall/slippery) bathtub and a whole wall mirror is also present?
Self priming paint is OK. Its purpose was to market to the DIY'er to make a job sound easier with less steps. The product isn't bad but.........Primer plus paint is always better. Self priming paints work well in flat finishes when you've done some light spackling, plan on two coats, and don't want to spot prime the spackling. In
time those areas can flash, so primer plus paint is always better.
Thanks demarpaint. i used the paint just because i found a store with a lot of "oops" batches.
quick crazy question, what do you do when you paint around a big (wide/tall/slippery) bathtub and a whole wall mirror is also present?
Originally Posted By: pandus13
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Self priming paint is OK. Its purpose was to market to the DIY'er to make a job sound easier with less steps. The product isn't bad but.........Primer plus paint is always better. Self priming paints work well in flat finishes when you've done some light spackling, plan on two coats, and don't want to spot prime the spackling. In
time those areas can flash, so primer plus paint is always better.
Thanks demarpaint. i used the paint just because i found a store with a lot of "oops" batches.
quick crazy question, what do you do when you paint around a big (wide/tall/slippery) bathtub and a whole wall mirror is also present?
Carefully!
If I have no choice and have to put a ladder in the tub, [only 2 feet of it] I put a rubber bath mat of my own down in the tub first, and make sure the grip surface takes hold, that goes where the ladder will be. Then I cover the tub and have rubber feet on the ladder. I have a special drop cloth that is really an odd ball and have no idea where I got it from. It is a rubbery, no skid material so it doesn't slide around. I've had it for years. If I feel the mirror has to be masked off I do so. Nothing other than masking tape and paper ever touches the mirror. I have enough bad luck I don't need another 7 years of it.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Self priming paint is OK. Its purpose was to market to the DIY'er to make a job sound easier with less steps. The product isn't bad but.........Primer plus paint is always better. Self priming paints work well in flat finishes when you've done some light spackling, plan on two coats, and don't want to spot prime the spackling. In
time those areas can flash, so primer plus paint is always better.
Thanks demarpaint. i used the paint just because i found a store with a lot of "oops" batches.
quick crazy question, what do you do when you paint around a big (wide/tall/slippery) bathtub and a whole wall mirror is also present?
Carefully!
If I have no choice and have to put a ladder in the tub, [only 2 feet of it] I put a rubber bath mat of my own down in the tub first, and make sure the grip surface takes hold, that goes where the ladder will be. Then I cover the tub and have rubber feet on the ladder. I have a special drop cloth that is really an odd ball and have no idea where I got it from. It is a rubbery, no skid material so it doesn't slide around. I've had it for years. If I feel the mirror has to be masked off I do so. Nothing other than masking tape and paper ever touches the mirror. I have enough bad luck I don't need another 7 years of it.
Originally Posted By: Quest
(1) improper curing of paint, and/or poor quality paint (poor adhesion).
(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.
(3) high moisture exposure, most likely due to poor bathroom ventilation.
For this, I typically prefer anything 120cfm or higher, Panasonic is the best, bar none.
Q.
p.s. I consider being called "bob villa" (note the lower-case) type an insult....
Should he have said the "Tim the Tool Man" type?
(1) improper curing of paint, and/or poor quality paint (poor adhesion).
(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.
(3) high moisture exposure, most likely due to poor bathroom ventilation.
For this, I typically prefer anything 120cfm or higher, Panasonic is the best, bar none.
Q.
p.s. I consider being called "bob villa" (note the lower-case) type an insult....
Should he have said the "Tim the Tool Man" type?
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