5W20 instead of 5W30 for 2001 Honda CRV?

[Revrick]

I live in Wisconsin, have 180,000 on my CRV (which is well-maintained and runs perfectly). Can I use 5W20 in the engine? I have 5 gallons of 5W20 Pennzoil Synthetic on hand ...

BTW, my son is taking the car back to school in Alabama in a week, so it will be operated in a southern climate for the next 6 months. OK to use 5W20?

 

[Roob]

The 2001 CRV is specced for 5w30 and has not been back specced like the 2002+.
I would stick to the manufacterers spec of 5w30.

Cheers.

 

[Revrick]

Not worth risking problems with the engine to save on 4 qts (not gallons) of oil on hand, I guess.

 

[EdwardC]

Maybe go halfsies with some 5W40/10W40/15W40?

 

[Revrick]

There's a thought, but I only have 5W30, 0W40 (for 2015 VW Golf) and 0W20 (2010 CRV) on hand....

The 5W20 is an unwanted orphan oil....

 

[Roob]

TBH, yes.
You could do a mix using the 5w20 so it doesn't go to waste as someone's already suggested.
Or, to keep it cheap and get a great oil, I'd go and grab some PYB 5w30/Fram TG and sleep very well...

Cheers.

 

[2003GPW]

My 2001 CRV has about 94,000 miles on it. Of my stable, it is the runt. So, I sort of experiment with it sometimes. I've run Toyota 0W20, CQ store brand 5W20 syn, CQ 5W30 syn, and various mixes of Mobil 1 5W20 and 5W30. Basically, whatever I have on hand that isn't going in another vehicle soon. Often time 3 or 4 different oils mixed together. It's an unstoppable Honda B-series engine. It'll run on canola. I wouldn't be too worried about it, as long as there's oil in it, I'd say you're good.

 

[Clevy]

If it wasn't back spec'd to a 20 grade that to me is very telling.
I wouldn't go thinner unless you've got real data to back up your choice.

 

[Lapham3]

My mominlaw has a 2005 CRV. I seem to recall that those engines are a pretty good Honda effort with no 'pattern failure' issues. I don't regularly maintain it, but seem to recall a 20 weight but not sure if 0-20 or 5-20. Years ago, I looked at some engine build specs for a few engines as OEM oil specs were changing in viscosity and noticed that while the oil 'thinned' the internal part's clearances remined unchanged, so gathered it's the OEM oil spec change for increased fuel economy. I think you'd be fine with whatever...canola probably excluded!

 

[fdcg27]

What engine in this CRV?
If it shares the Accord engine of the same generation, you could use a twenty without hesitation.
You could probably use one anyway.
Just make sure that son understands the importance of monitoring oil level.

 

[Bryankkkk]

Originally Posted By: 2003GPW
My 2001 CRV has about 94,000 miles on it. Of my stable, it is the runt. So, I sort of experiment with it sometimes. I've run Toyota 0W20, CQ store brand 5W20 syn, CQ 5W30 syn, and various mixes of Mobil 1 5W20 and 5W30. Basically, whatever I have on hand that isn't going in another vehicle soon. Often time 3 or 4 different oils mixed together. It's an unstoppable Honda B-series engine. It'll run on canola. I wouldn't be too worried about it, as long as there's oil in it, I'd say you're good.


I would be more worried about the valves tightening them what oil to run. Just run 5w-30

 

[bepperb]

20 weight wouldn't be my choice for the B series Honda, especially one that is probably continuous high speed for long distances.

I'd agree with Bryankkkk, if the valves have never been checked that might be worth a few minutes before he leaves.

 

[bepperb]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
What engine in this CRV?
If it shares the Accord engine of the same generation, you could use a twenty without hesitation.
You could probably use one anyway.
Just make sure that son understands the importance of monitoring oil level.


No, Should have a B20 stroked version of a Civic engine. The CRV and Accord started sharing the K24 the year after, IIRC. The Accord of that era would have had an F series engine, 2.3 vs 2.0 or the newer 2.4 liter four bangers.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Revrick
I live in Wisconsin, have 180,000 on my CRV (which is well-maintained and runs perfectly). Can I use 5W20 in the engine? I have 5 gallons of 5W20 Pennzoil Synthetic on hand ...


The opening line answers your own question after 180000 miles and it runs perfectly.

Why mess around. Whatever you have been doing keep doing it.

We need more details from you. I would give it away or keep a couple of quarts for minor top up in between OCIs.

My Holden ran perfect on M1 5w-50 until I went for the thin as as possible for the engine. After I ran a couple of OCIs on Redline 10w30 oil in 2004 (when it was $14 AUD a litre) some weeps appeared after I stopped using the Redline and these never went away.

My mind has developed immunity to the BITOG hypes or fads that appear from time to time. Just because one is new does not mean one is not knowledgeable.

Some new members that follow and trust the OEM guidelines ARE some smarter and WISER than the self learned / self anointed members that push certain agendas contrary to OEM recommendations.

 

[EdwardC]

Out of warranty, I would have no problem using it in the 2010 CRV, especially if you run enough miles to segregate it to the warmer months. If not, I'd stick with a blend with xW-40. If you can get by with a blend, a jug of conventional can run as cheap as $12. If your OCIs dictate a full synthetic, get a jug of that to mix.

I agree with the others, if a 30wt has been working for you in the past, stick with it.

 

[Pops1050]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
If it wasn't back spec'd to a 20 grade that to me is very telling.
I wouldn't go thinner unless you've got real data to back up your choice.


Poster, Your CRV would probably be fine, however this was my reaction also. Don't know why it wasn't back spec'd but oil ain't that expensive, I'd stick with the 30 too.

 

[Merkava_4]

Mix the 5W-20 50/50 with 20W-50.

 

[berniedd]

You and I have the 1st Gen CRV, which is not back-spec'ed for 5W-20 oil. With your 180K miles on the engine, parts clearances will be wider than when new. Using thinner oil than what it was meant to get will be a risk. Use the correct 30-weight oil and sleep well.

Checking the valve clearances now (.006" for intake, .009" for exhaust) is a good idea. These B20 engines are notorious for exhaust valve seat recession, and have a 25,000 mile valve lash check recommendation. The original manuals said 105,000 miles, but that is incorrect.

 

[Revrick]

Great suggestions and insights, folks. It does seem penny-foolish to use 5W20 for this car that has run 180,000 miles exclusively on 5W30, the last 80,000 or so on Mobil 1. So, I'll stick with 5W30 Mobil 1 and have the valves checked to boot.

Thanks, all.

 

[Revrick]

Great suggestions and insights, folks. It does seem penny-foolish to use 5W20 for this car that has run 180,000 miles exclusively on 5W30, the last 80,000 or so on Mobil 1. So, I'll stick with 5W30 Mobil 1 and have the valves checked to boot.

Thanks, all.

P.S, In the interest of "full disclosure," my oldest son is a chemical engineer at the Mobil One plant in Beaumont, TX! We only use Mobil One now.