2015 Silverado 2500HD Duramax

[Joe_Power]

Just pulled the trigger on a 15 Chevy with the Duramax. Free 2 years scheduled maintenance. When should I get my first oil change? After 500? 1000?
Also, I have a stash of Rotella 15-40 Dino. Shall I use it, or go with synthetic?
Any other tips??
thanks.

 

[Clevy]

Unless your prepared to extend the interval exactly why spend more on synthetic if the spec doesn't require it to be.
As far as the first oil change and break in I suggest doing a Google search for motomans break in method. There is some very good and sensible info on his site.
As far as oil change is concerned follow the manual. Considering the size of the sump and the filtration ability of the filter I see no need to change sooner. Any particulate will be filtered out and the micron and dub micron particulate will improve the breaking in of the engine.
I used to think that early oil changes were the way to go on new engines however I then learned that a new engine needs some abrasive in the oil to properly break in the moving parts.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
Just pulled the trigger on a 15 Chevy with the Duramax. Free 2 years scheduled maintenance. When should I get my first oil change? After 500? 1000?
Also, I have a stash of Rotella 15-40 Dino. Shall I use it, or go with synthetic?
Any other tips??
thanks.
What does the owners manual recommend?

 

[stockrex]

Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
Just pulled the trigger on a 15 Chevy with the Duramax. Free 2 years scheduled maintenance. When should I get my first oil change? After 500? 1000?
Also, I have a stash of Rotella 15-40 Dino. Shall I use it, or go with synthetic?
Any other tips??
thanks.


Joe,
where in Kansas are ya?
I live in liberty, mo and it was cold there, coooooler than here in MI.

When was your truck built? pls check the build date, mine sat at stealership for a year before I bought it.

I think the only breakin warning in the owner manual is about towing during the first 1000 miles (or could be 500).

Oil - dump factory fill and get a syn oil change. Trust me, you want your oil to flow during cold start.

rear diff - drain and fill after x miles, you pick the miles. I used mobil gear oil,

front diff - same

transfer case - leave it alone

tranny - go to big rig/truck place and buy a case of transynd and spin on filter. after 5 k miles spin off the trans filter and replace it, and replace a dixie cup of transynd

FYI:
my truck came with the front differential gear misaligned from factory, and I am pretty sure same is going on with the transfer case. so take your truck our on the hwy BEFORE you buy it and turn off all music etc and listen to it under LOAD in 2wd and 4wd HI. listen for howl/roaring under load.

good luck

 

[JHZR2]

Did you even open the owner's manual?

 

[stockrex]

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Che...max_diesel1.pdf

10-8 for oil.

 

[dnewton3]

Joe_Power

Welcome to the Dmax owner club!

Here are a few notes that will help you with taking care of the truck. (In no particular order ...)

1) The Dmax is one of the better, if not best, wearing light-duty diesel engines out there.

2) It really does not care what brand/grade of lube you use; data clearly shows this (I have over 600 UOAs of the Dmax and have done very detailed studies - take my word for it). As long as you use a properly qualified CJ-4 lube of a reasonable grade, you'll be fine. Seriously, the engine could not care less about brand/grade/base stock.

3) As you have an LML, you do not have to worry about fuel dilution (it has a 9th injector downstream so the regens do not affect the lube)

4) I would highly recommend a couple of drain/fill cycles perhaps in the first thousand miles, to rid the system of break-in wear. After that, you can follow the IOLM; it is reasonably conservative and will provide you with good wear protection. Don't think that you must "guess" or otherwise anticipate the IOLM distance; run it down to zero and then change your oil. I assue you with 100% certainty that you're not harming your engine. Zero on the IOLM does not mean the oil is worthless; it only means it met the criteria for a change. There is a EVER-LOVING HUGE amount of reserve capability in lubes and filters. Running to zero on the IOLM is not dangerous in the least. You do not need to change oil at 20% or 30% as "cheap insurance" (it's just assured waste).

5) If you are geting free oil changes at the dealer, then about the only thing you need to worry about it making sure the grease monkeys don't accidentally introduce PCMO into the Dmax. While dealer oil is often over priced, it's not bad oil. As I recall, the GM branded lubes are made by Mobil (or were at one time).

6) You can most certianly use the Rotella; it will do fine




I can assure you of this; the fretting over oil that your brain will endure is by far much greater than how little the Dmax cares about lubes. Use a CJ-4 and don't give it a second thought.

 

[ottomatic]

heed the above post & join here:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/?