68 plymouth fury oil recommendation

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Hello all. As the title says, trying to help out my grandfather.

He has a 68 plymouth fury 3. 318ci V8 non big block. 93k miles.

The car has sat for awhile and we're trying to tune up the engine and get it up and running as a weekend cruiser. Not too familiar with oil weights for older cars so looking for some help.

Thank you
 
Rotella 15w-40 would work well in your application. As would any XX-40 out there.
 
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A 318 probably never changed in clearance specs over time.

I'd look at rotella T5 10w-30 in there, and pull UOA to see if you can take it to two years.
 
You could use any PCMO 10W-30, since that would have been among the recommended grades at the time and would have been what most of these engines ran on back in the day.
The oils of the time didn't have crazy levels of zinc, either.
 
Thanks for the advice thus far.

I'm assuming stick to conventional no synthetic right?

Side note I believe the 318 had a 9.2:1 compression ratio so is regular 87 octane okay or should I got a little higher? I've read unleaded gas wasn't good for the old softer valve seats so that could be an issue as well?
 
I also answered your transmission fluid post
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87 octane fuel is a bit low - I would use at least 89 and see how it runs. The old leaded regular that this engine is designed for was about 93-94 Research octane which is about 89-90 R+M/2 pump octane using the scale adopted by the US and Canada starting in the mid '70's.

As others have said, I would use an oil with higher ZDDP like Quaker State Defy 10W30 or the Rotellas mentioned as well to be on the safe side.

A lead additive probably wouldn't hurt - but may not be absolutely necessary. Unless the car will be used for sustained highway driving it will probably be OK on unleaded for a long time.

I would be more concerned about the timing chain than the valve seats for now since the old nylon-coated cam gear is probably brittle at this point. I would change that for piece of mind. If it jumps time while running it will likely bend the valves.

Andrew S.
 
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I would use a HM 10W30. The additional seal conditioners would be good insurance in a 1968 engine that has been sitting.
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128

Side note I believe the 318 had a 9.2:1 compression ratio so is regular 87 octane okay or should I got a little higher? I've read unleaded gas wasn't good for the old softer valve seats so that could be an issue as well?

Compression ratio is only one factor in determining your octane needs. A second factor is how the combustion chamber was designed. That is why some older V8 engines needed 8.5:1 compression to work with a 87 octane fuel, whereas newer ones would use 9.5:1 or more.

Since you have an older engine, I think you would be better off with higher octane gasoline.

As for the valve seat issue, there are a mix of factors to consider. Some of the old engines that ran leaded fuel had no problem because they had a small cam, low redline, and the head was made of a high quality alloy. Sometimes when a leaded gas engine has this problem, someone has already had the cylinder heads rebuilt with upgraded valve seats. This is also common if the engine has been given a complete rebuild.

When valve seats are known to be too sensitive to unleaded gas, there are fuel additives that create an ash to protect the valve seat. It mimics the effect of leaded gasoline, but doesn't actually contain lead.

I suggest reading some enthusiast pages about your car. Other owners may be able to tell you if anyone had to install upgraded valve seats or use fuel additives.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist

I suggest reading some enthusiast pages about your car.


allpar and moparts
 
that compresion ratio will require premium gas.you may want to look into the timing chain and gears as the original gears were nylon over metal. if the chain jumps it will bend every exhaust valve! ive been there myself.
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128
Hello all. As the title says, trying to help out my grandfather.

He has a 68 plymouth fury 3. 318ci V8 non big block. 93k miles.

The car has sat for awhile and we're trying to tune up the engine and get it up and running as a weekend cruiser. Not too familiar with oil weights for older cars so looking for some help.

Thank you


IIRC it's 10w40; so agree with the Rotella T6.

Valve stem seals will last awhile without lead, but eventually you'll start using oil.

Also, need some pics!
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
An old 318 eh.

Any 5w-30 conventional will do great.


This. 40-weight was never spec'd for that engine (though it was a listed option) and they generally don't have any issues that would make a heavier grade favorable like (for example) the Jeep 4.0 with its weaker AMC oil pump does. Mopar LA engines are very easy on oil, and the 318 in particular is very mildly tuned and over-built. The slant-6 has the reputation for being the toughest, but I honestly think the 318 tops even the slanty far as brute longevity.

But change the timing chain and gears... NOW. They were using nylon-coated gears ('silent' timing sets) in that era, and when the plastic fails the chain gets very slack and can jump time, potentially driving a valve through a piston. Also bits of plastic cam gear teeth can restrict the oil pickup if they start breaking off.
 
I looked on rock auto and new timing chain setup isn't that expensive, like $30-40 sound right? Never undertaken a job like that by myself so I'll talk to my mechanic friend whose shop I'm bringing the car to today and tell him I want to get that done first.

Also do you have any 5w-30 that you would recommend in particular?
 
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