Mopar OAT Coolant?

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I have a Question on this Coolant!

Dealer is asking $68 a gallon!

Do any of you coolant experts know who makes this coolant for Mopar?
 
Why not just flush it out and use the regular green prestone long life version instead? That's what I do to all my cars, except for the one where I am still using Dexcool (which is cheap and easy to buy).
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
My newest Mopars still used G-05, so I'm not really up on the new stuff and possible alternatives. Is this the sorta purple tinted factory fill, P/N68163848aa?

If so, there are ways to get it for about half what you were quoted. I'd go genuine from a place like this:

http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68163848aa.html


So thats the new dealer parts profit machine scam, tell everybody to use the "factory approved" coolant ONLY, or the solder/aluminum/iron will be dissolved. That link is still almost $50 with shipping.
 
440magnum: Yes the part# for this coolant is 68163849AA!-->50/50 mix!

I found it on line a a few Mopar sites. Cheapest is $24.90 a gallon for 50/50 mix.

The concentrate is around $36.50. By the time I pay shipping to Oklahoma cost is around $40 a gallon.

Color is purple!

I did read where this variation of a OAT coolant does not contain the 2-EHA like most Dex-Cool coolants do.

It is very similar to Peak Global Lifetime. Which makes me think I can mix the 2 without issues.

My truck only has 600 miles on her...so I hate to drain the new coolant to a brand that I can buy locally for 1/4 of the price.

Doing alot of reading leaves me to think that the Peak Global Lifetime might be my best choice.

I just like having a Gallon of the Correct OAT coolant in my garage at all times for top off.

I just wish I could find the maker of Mopar Brand. That would help alot with the narrowing down the most compatible OAT coolant for use.
 
This purple OAT coolant shows to be 10years 150,000 mile coolant.

I know I don't have to worry about this new coolant for along time.

I just would like to have a extra gallon in the garage for top off.

I know the best way to handle this without spending $45-$50 for a gallon of the correct OAT Coolant. Is to drain the new coolant out of the 5.7L and Flush and Fill with Peak Global Lifetime. Done no more Worries!

I would really not like to do that at this time. It's New Coolant->Nothing Wrong with it! It would only be a waste of $$$

I have looked through out the net trying to find out just who makes this expensive Mopar Coolant with no luck so far.

Thus I could just buy their brand of OAT coolant which I'm sure would be compatible with the coolant in the Hemi. Which I hope it would.

Doing more research showed me Mopar just changed to this OAT coolant in the 2013 models.

I did contact Zerex and they replied that they were not the supplier of the coolant for Mopar.
 
Originally Posted By: -SyN-
440magnum: Yes the part# for this coolant is 68163849AA!-->50/50 mix!

I found it on line a a few Mopar sites. Cheapest is $24.90 a gallon for 50/50 mix.

The concentrate is around $36.50. By the time I pay shipping to Oklahoma cost is around $40 a gallon.

Color is purple!

I did read where this variation of a OAT coolant does not contain the 2-EHA like most Dex-Cool coolants do.

It is very similar to Peak Global Lifetime. Which makes me think I can mix the 2 without issues.

My truck only has 600 miles on her...so I hate to drain the new coolant to a brand that I can buy locally for 1/4 of the price.

Doing alot of reading leaves me to think that the Peak Global Lifetime might be my best choice.

I just like having a Gallon of the Correct OAT coolant in my garage at all times for top off.

I just wish I could find the maker of Mopar Brand. That would help alot with the narrowing down the most compatible OAT coolant for use.


This article says that the Chrysler OAT is manufactured by CCI Manufacturing. Never heard of 'em, personally.

It also said (I'm summarizing) that Chrysler went out of their way to make sure the new systems tolerate other coolant chemistries, although they were very demanding (and different from Fiat) in the spec for the purple OAT so that it can last 10 years/150k miles. But they avoided any silicone in gaskets so that 2 EHA shouldn't (I still wouldn't use it!) cause problems like it did when DexCool first appeared. They also did a lot of cavitation tests, which is another problem with nitrite-free antifreezes.
 
Well Horse Poop! This just confuses me more! Sounds like I best just purchase a gallon online which is cheaper then the dealer. To keep from causing any issues as well as my warranty.

But still I am open to any thoughts and advice from you all.

Thanks 440Magnum for your time and help.
 
Problem here is Mopar OAT is a very new AF and thus the stealer is the only option if you want to get it now, and the price will be high. Frankly I wouldn't purchase it until I specifically needed it. If the level drifts a tad low(er) I'd just add some distilled water to bring the level up. I'd expect that as it becomes a little more popular the price should drop some.

If you wanted to have something on hand just as a topper and not pay stealer prices, I agree the PGL would make an excellent choice. It's a universal extended/long life OAT with no 2eha (like Mopar OAT), which would make it an ideal alternative to the oem. And it has a rather neutral color so it's doubtful it would change the hue of the oem much if at all for minor top offs.
 
Originally Posted By: -SyN-

I just would like to have a extra gallon in the garage for top off.



If it's for your 14 truck then any top off should be covered for free by the dealer. Besides, how many top offs are you expecting on thi sbrand new vehicle? At most one should be needed which would make the trip to the dealer worthwhile, unless it's really far away.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Problem here is Mopar OAT is a very new AF and thus the stealer is the only option if you want to get it now, and the price will be high. Frankly I wouldn't purchase it until I specifically needed it. If the level drifts a tad low(er) I just add some distilled water to bring the level up. I'd expect that as it becomes a little more popular the price should drop some.


I COMPLETELY agree. Use distilled water as top-off. If its losing enough coolant to be an issue with using distilled water... then its a WARRANTY issue because it shouldn't lose that much coolant in 5-10 years! The risk of mixing chemistries is far, far greater than a little bit of dilution with distilled water, especially after the inhibitors are all working in an engine with a few thousand miles on it.
 
Sayjac: I agree 100%

Thanks for your thoughts and advice.

It looks like Mopar put some thought and have good intentions with this new OAT coolant.

Truth is--> 10years-150,000 miles is pretty incredible.
 
Kris: I probably will not have to top this new coolant off for a good while.

I'm just one of those Anal owners who likes to have the correct fluid on hand. {Just Me}!

Dealer I bought the Truck from is 3 hours away.

Thanks for your reply
 
Originally Posted By: -SyN-
..Truth is--> 10years-150,000 miles is pretty incredible.

Honda (Type II) spec 10 years/120k mi. on the FF, and 5 years/60k mi. subsequent. OAT coolants (P-HOAT Honda Type II) have a long rated service interval.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: -SyN-
..Truth is--> 10years-150,000 miles is pretty incredible.

Honda (Type II) spec 10 years/120k mi. on the FF, and 5 years/60k mi. subsequent. OAT coolants (P-HOAT Honda Type II) have a long rated service interval.


At some point, the corrosion inhibitors in coolant become fairly irrelevant. If you can keep oxygen out and can sufficiently eliminate the dissimilar metal (galvanic corrosion) problem, you could run a sealed system just about indefinitely with pure distilled water (except for the pesky freezing problem). Coolants have inhibitor packages because the systems AREN'T perfectly sealed, and most engines have at least 2 if not more different metals exposed to the coolant. But in recent years, system sealing has gotten quite a bit better and the number of different materials exposed to coolant has been reduced. Its not like my '66 and '69, where there's an iron block, aluminum water pump, bronze heater core and radiator, lead-based solder in the heater core and radiator, composition head gaskets with steel faces, etc. etc. etc.
 
Originally Posted By: -SyN-
Sayjac: I agree 100%

Thanks for your thoughts and advice.

It looks like Mopar put some thought and have good intentions with this new OAT coolant.

Truth is--> 10years-150,000 miles is pretty incredible.



If you read anything on the Jeep message boards about the cooling system problems and OAT coolant your head will spin. If you haven't checked, when you have some free time to kill have a look. Plugged heater cores, and in some instances the radiator, heater core, and oil cooler have to be replaced. There are a few reasons why it might be happening last I read, but no one is really sure. I have a friend who posts on a Jeep board that had his coolant sent out and tested in a low mile 2013 Wrangler and the aluminum content was very high. The reason is unknown.
 
Found a decent price online for the correct Mopar Coolant-->{Purple}. $21.30 cheaper per gallon then what the dealer was asking.

Time will tell if this coolant is a Time Bomb! Good thing is NO other type of coolant will be added to it.

Thanks for all the Replies!
 
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