what type garden hose for full pressure always on

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Originally Posted By: rhondas
Originally Posted By: expat
Why not put in a separate hose bib on the side of the trailer where you need it?

PEX is inexpensive and stands up well, even if you forget to drain it down and it freezes once in a while.


sounds good but how would I screw it on the faucet threads ..thanks
What kind of piping do you have?
 
thanks
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Originally Posted By: Kool1
I believe hoses used for washing machines are always pressurized, flexible, and may meet your needs.




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I was thinking of that, ,its hard to find a 12= 15 foot hose at 5/8 DIA
 
Originally Posted By: djb
Most hoses are not drinking water safe. Including the black rubber Craftsman hose.

This isn't an idle statement. They aren't simply not tested. They are actually unsafe. The fillers and plasticizers will diffuse into the water. The best UV stabilizers tend to be really nasty e.g. lead compounds. (Lead paint wasn't widely used because it was cheap. It wasn't cheap. It was the best, longest-lasting outdoor paint that you could buy. It was so good it was used even though people knew there was a health risk.

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not needed for drinking
 
Well, here you go. This metal-clad industrial Armadillo hose seems to be about as damage proof as one could wish. And, it is chew proof and NSF certified to boot.

http://www.armadillohoseproducts.com/pv/DURA-HOSE-15-ft/3194
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Depending on what you are doing and what your supply hose bib is connected to, you probably should also make sure you install a vacuum breaker - anti-siphon backflow preventer at the sillcock to avoid both health and code concerns.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Flexogen makes very good hoses and they easily honor their lifetime warranty.

For drinking water, Water Right polyurethane hoses are top notch.


tom , I'm not using the hose for drinking
 
I have extensive experience using both Flexogen and commercial rubber hoses in and around my workplace greenhouses. In fact, our office/shop water line froze in March and we ran Flexogen hose outdoors on the ground from the greenhouses to the shop for 2 months to provide water. The hose was run over daily by vehicles, tractors, and even a large garbage truck with no problems.

Both hoses will work. Each has pros and cons. The Flexogen is a bit lighter and it's vinyl composition seems to resist internal scale build up compared to rubber (in our use). The Flexogen gets stiffer in cold weather and is difficult to roll up. Both have excellent abrasion and crush resistance.

The one problem we have with Flexogen is on our greenhouse hose reels. With daily use, the working end tends to bend/kink quite a bit and it breaks after about a year.

Either will work. Don't ignore my backflow concerns noted above, depending on your circumstances. A hose bib vacuum breaker is about $6 - $12 dollars.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I have extensive experience using both Flexogen and commercial rubber hoses in and around my workplace greenhouses. In fact, our office/shop water line froze in March and we ran Flexogen hose outdoors on the ground from the greenhouses to the shop for 2 months to provide water. The hose was run over daily by vehicles, tractors, and even a large garbage truck with no problems.

Both hoses will work. Each has pros and cons. The Flexogen is a bit lighter and it's vinyl composition seems to resist internal scale build up compared to rubber (in our use). The Flexogen gets stiffer in cold weather and is difficult to roll up. Both have excellent abrasion and crush resistance.

The one problem we have with Flexogen is on our greenhouse hose reels. With daily use, the working end tends to bend/kink quite a bit and it breaks after about a year.

Either will work. Don't ignore my backflow concerns noted above, depending on your circumstances. A hose bib vacuum breaker is about $6 - $12 dollars.

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sounds like Flexogen will work for me no trucks under the house, Joke, but what is a A hose bib vacuum breaker . and do I need that just for a garden hose hook up , but the shorter house under the house will always have the pressure on it going to the outside water spicket or turn of valve.
 
When the hose goes under the house trailer, what are you going to use it for?? What does it connect to?

The vacuum breaker protects contaminated water being drawn into your hose spigot/sillcock and introduced into your building system.

Google search shows one of these devices: "The Watts Series 8 is a line of unique vacuum breakers specially made to permit the attachment of portable hoses to hose thread faucets. Designed to prevent the flow of contaminated water back into the potable water supply, these devices require no plumbing changes, and screw directly onto a sill cock."
http://www.ci.healdsburg.ca.us/index.aspx?page=419

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Originally Posted By: doitmyself
When the hose goes under the house trailer, what are you going to use it for?? What does it connect to?

The vacuum breaker protects contaminated water being drawn into your hose spigot/sillcock and introduced into your building system.

Google search shows one of these devices: "The Watts Series 8 is a line of unique vacuum breakers specially made to permit the attachment of portable hoses to hose thread faucets. Designed to prevent the flow of contaminated water back into the potable water supply, these devices require no plumbing changes, and screw directly onto a sill cock."
http://www.ci.healdsburg.ca.us/index.aspx?page=419

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8-6.jpg


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OK now I understand what the Bibb is, well I would not need that . I just need a very good strong hose to go from the crock side of my home under the crawl space to the other side of my home when my spigot is and this hose would be under constant pressure all the time especially when I turn off the spigot for garden hose use . [img:left]
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
The only type hose I would trust for that application is an R/V water supply hose, usually color coded white or white with a green or blue stripe. They're made for continuous pressure, garden hoses or not.

The farm/contractor grade hose could probably take it- but they're pricier than the R/V type in my experience.


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A picture is worth a thousand words. I imagined something much different.

We all cobble stuff to meet temporary needs on occasion. Sometimes temporary turns into semi permanent. I might do this in a hunting cabin, etc..

If the crock is connected to your household plumbing, then you should install the vacuum breaker on the crock spigot/hose bib.

If a mouse or squirrel chews through the hose while you are away, you might have a bad situation.

The permanent solution is to plumb the outside spigot into your household plumbing.

Anyone else with an opinion?? Member "Plumber" is probably rolling his eyes saying "this is why you hire a professional"....with good reason. There are health and other concerns here.

I would do this as a temporary band-aid until I could do it properly.
 
Copper pipe with adapter fittings soldered on the ends. That's how I plumbed our aircraft hangar. It's cheap, easy and if assembled correctly, will never fail.

In our case, I hooked to an outside spigot with a "T" fitting. One end of the T goes to my hangar and is 100% copper, the other end to a ball valve, so the neighbor can fill his mop bucket. Works like magic!
 
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