I am planning a cam swap in my truck. Picked up a set of cylinder heads having them milled down for compression. Should I remove the valves springs and retainers or leave them as is for the machine shop. I have new spring retainers,springs,retainers and seals anyway. i got mixed reviews. one said to leave them on another said pull them apart.
Sending heads to machine shop
- Thread starter EvanD
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What does the machine shop say?
I am having a hard time picking a shop out. Not getting the best of feelings well of course the 1600$ cnc porter had excellent reviews.
I only need a mill and good valve job.
I only need a mill and good valve job.
Originally Posted By: EvanD
I am having a hard time picking a shop out. Not getting the best of feelings well of course the 1600$ cnc porter had excellent reviews.
I only need a mill and good valve job.
I learned to pick an older guy. Experience trumps fancy equipment.
I am having a hard time picking a shop out. Not getting the best of feelings well of course the 1600$ cnc porter had excellent reviews.
I only need a mill and good valve job.
I learned to pick an older guy. Experience trumps fancy equipment.
So you are having a valve job as well.
I would take the springs and seals off, but wire the valves in the head.
This will make it clear, and prevent, the shop replacing the old valve springs.
Ask about machine shops in your area. As stated, reputation trumps fancy equipment.
Contact a local Car club, see what names come up.
Are you going for a Multi angle valve job, or just a Grind?
I would take the springs and seals off, but wire the valves in the head.
This will make it clear, and prevent, the shop replacing the old valve springs.
Ask about machine shops in your area. As stated, reputation trumps fancy equipment.
Contact a local Car club, see what names come up.
Are you going for a Multi angle valve job, or just a Grind?
Leave everything there. Rebuilders like to see as complete a core as possible.
It would also be wise to speak to your machinist, as he might recommend a service specific to your car.
Sometimes when you have stiffer valve springs, a bigger cam, or higher lift rockers, screw in rocker studs may be essential. I don't know if your engine has them. Ask your machinist about screw in studs.
It would also be wise to speak to your machinist, as he might recommend a service specific to your car.
Sometimes when you have stiffer valve springs, a bigger cam, or higher lift rockers, screw in rocker studs may be essential. I don't know if your engine has them. Ask your machinist about screw in studs.
If you lived in Missouri, I could recommend an excellent machinist. Your profile doesn't say where you live.
I live in Missouri, who & where? Just in case I know someone who may need it in future
Back in the day when I worked in a machine shop the heads usually came in fully assembled. We'd do all the disassembling cleaning and re-assembling of the heads.
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
I live in Missouri, who & where? Just in case I know someone who may need it in future
Bergmann-Wunderlich. Machine. Troy MO.
636-295-2338
He's a one man full machine shop. Super nice, knows his stuff, and honest.
I recently had him do a full 468 BBC for me. Turned out perfect.
I live in Missouri, who & where? Just in case I know someone who may need it in future
Bergmann-Wunderlich. Machine. Troy MO.
636-295-2338
He's a one man full machine shop. Super nice, knows his stuff, and honest.
I recently had him do a full 468 BBC for me. Turned out perfect.
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Make sure the machine the intake runners to match.
Not sure where "well traveled" is, but if you're not sure where the best machine shop is, it's probably best to ask some of the general repair shops who they use. In this neighborhood, the best one is actually attached in the back of the local NAPA.
Back when we did them, they went in intact. That way the machinist can go over the whole piece and "read" all the existing wear patterns to make sure there are no other issues to address. You'd be surprised what they can find on occasion.
I don't do this work anymore. But my guess is a good machine shop will want the heads dropped off intact. A good one should also return them that way, fully adjusted (if needed) and ready to go.
Back when we did them, they went in intact. That way the machinist can go over the whole piece and "read" all the existing wear patterns to make sure there are no other issues to address. You'd be surprised what they can find on occasion.
I don't do this work anymore. But my guess is a good machine shop will want the heads dropped off intact. A good one should also return them that way, fully adjusted (if needed) and ready to go.
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: asand1
Make sure the machine the intake runners to match.
Machine the intake runners?
On the intake manifold to match the heads. Makes no sense to have intake ports on the heads flow 350cfm with silly straws feeding them. Same with having huge tunnel ram ports feeling unported stock heads.
I always bring heads to the machine shop assembled. The guys that I use prefer it as they can check everything out.
Originally Posted By: asand1
Make sure the machine the intake runners to match.
Machine the intake runners?
On the intake manifold to match the heads. Makes no sense to have intake ports on the heads flow 350cfm with silly straws feeding them. Same with having huge tunnel ram ports feeling unported stock heads.
I always bring heads to the machine shop assembled. The guys that I use prefer it as they can check everything out.
As noted above, any competent machinist will want to do his 'discovery' process and go through the heads himself.
There is a great shop in almost every town. Generally smaller, owner operated, and they take pride in their work. I recommend you hit up a nicer car show/meet near you and ask some of the guys there. Some of the fancy stroker motors and such had to come from somewhere...
There is a great shop in almost every town. Generally smaller, owner operated, and they take pride in their work. I recommend you hit up a nicer car show/meet near you and ask some of the guys there. Some of the fancy stroker motors and such had to come from somewhere...
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: asand1
Make sure the machine the intake runners to match.
Machine the intake runners?
On the intake manifold to match the heads. Makes no sense to have intake ports on the heads flow 350cfm with silly straws feeding them. Same with having huge tunnel ram ports feeling unported stock heads.
I always bring heads to the machine shop assembled. The guys that I use prefer it as they can check everything out.
When did head porting come into the subject? He's wanting a simple head rebuild.
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: asand1
Make sure the machine the intake runners to match.
Machine the intake runners?
On the intake manifold to match the heads. Makes no sense to have intake ports on the heads flow 350cfm with silly straws feeding them. Same with having huge tunnel ram ports feeling unported stock heads.
I always bring heads to the machine shop assembled. The guys that I use prefer it as they can check everything out.
When did head porting come into the subject? He's wanting a simple head rebuild.
You should get the intake flanges that mate with the head milled so everything lines up when you bolt the heads back on. With milled heads that sit lower on the block than factory heads, the intake will sit too high and you may have a hard time sealing everything up and there could be a step in the port where the manifold meets the head.
Your machinist will know how much to take off, it's a very common thing to have done.
Your machinist will know how much to take off, it's a very common thing to have done.
Originally Posted By: ironman_gq
You should get the intake flanges that mate with the head milled so everything lines up when you bolt the heads back on. With milled heads that sit lower on the block than factory heads, the intake will sit too high and you may have a hard time sealing everything up and there could be a step in the port where the manifold meets the head.
Your machinist will know how much to take off, it's a very common thing to have done.
I see. I missed where he said he was having them milled to decrease combustion chamber size.
You should get the intake flanges that mate with the head milled so everything lines up when you bolt the heads back on. With milled heads that sit lower on the block than factory heads, the intake will sit too high and you may have a hard time sealing everything up and there could be a step in the port where the manifold meets the head.
Your machinist will know how much to take off, it's a very common thing to have done.
I see. I missed where he said he was having them milled to decrease combustion chamber size.
Originally Posted By: EvanD
I am planning a cam swap in my truck. Picked up a set of cylinder heads having them milled down for compression. Should I remove the valves springs and retainers or leave them as is for the machine shop. I have new spring retainers,springs,retainers and seals anyway. i got mixed reviews. one said to leave them on another said pull them apart.
Depending on the engine and block/head material you may be able to get shim stock head gaskets to bump the compression and leave the heads alone except for just a minor clean up and checking for straightness.
Stock gaskets are anywhere from .040-.080 installed thickness depending on the engine so a .020" steel shim stock gasket will be the same as if you took .020-.060 off the heads.
You will still have to machine the intake or use a thinner gasket that are sometimes available in a set.
A lot of of old Nail Head Buick engines used this style gasket .015 thick for an OEM compression bump over the multi layer.
They are durable and last, just don't run straight water with an wetting additive, always use coolant.
I don't know what engine you have but IIRC most newer LS engines use an .051-.060 gasket and you can get an .040 multi layer for them.
In any case i would leave the heads assembled for the machine shop.
I am planning a cam swap in my truck. Picked up a set of cylinder heads having them milled down for compression. Should I remove the valves springs and retainers or leave them as is for the machine shop. I have new spring retainers,springs,retainers and seals anyway. i got mixed reviews. one said to leave them on another said pull them apart.
Depending on the engine and block/head material you may be able to get shim stock head gaskets to bump the compression and leave the heads alone except for just a minor clean up and checking for straightness.
Stock gaskets are anywhere from .040-.080 installed thickness depending on the engine so a .020" steel shim stock gasket will be the same as if you took .020-.060 off the heads.
You will still have to machine the intake or use a thinner gasket that are sometimes available in a set.
A lot of of old Nail Head Buick engines used this style gasket .015 thick for an OEM compression bump over the multi layer.
They are durable and last, just don't run straight water with an wetting additive, always use coolant.
I don't know what engine you have but IIRC most newer LS engines use an .051-.060 gasket and you can get an .040 multi layer for them.
In any case i would leave the heads assembled for the machine shop.
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