Dodge Viper- Which Motor Oil

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Technically 10W40 redline would be two grades higher since their HTHS is so much higher....I would vote for their 0W40.....see what the pressures run with this oil....and don't run it hard until the oil is hot...not just the water. Also what are you running in the tranny and the diff?
 
I'm running the recommended Mopar fluids both trans and rear.

What is HTHS?


Originally Posted By: mcrn
Technically 10W40 redline would be two grades higher since their HTHS is so much higher....I would vote for their 0W40.....see what the pressures run with this oil....and don't run it hard until the oil is hot...not just the water. Also what are you running in the tranny and the diff?
 
Good info. Thanks
Here's some car pics.

IMG_0602Sidney.jpg


ViperatWestTown2.jpg
 
LOL I love your pic. Just copied it to desktop. I will definately try.

I've wanted to sell the car for the past 2 years but I have sooooo much money in it and I have no idea what I could replace it with. I sold my 63 vette last year and ZO6 the year before. Life has made be make some serious reductions and this Viper is the last of my 'old life' so it's hard to let it go even if I don't drive it much. In the meantime I'll 'drive it like I stole it'.




Originally Posted By: rikstaker
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
Good info. Thanks
Here's some car pics.

IMG_0602Sidney.jpg


ViperatWestTown2.jpg




happy-cuteness-overload.jpg


Please take good care of her..
 
Originally Posted By: rikstaker
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
Good info. Thanks
Here's some car pics.

IMG_0602Sidney.jpg


ViperatWestTown2.jpg




happy-cuteness-overload.jpg


Please take good care of her..



Man that image hit the spot and I agree with rikstaker, please take care of her!

Would love to see the UOA results on 50/50 RedLine 10-40 and Mobil 1 Racing Oil 0-30

Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30

Viscosity (ASTM D 445)
cST @ 40 ºC 63.5
cST @ 100 ºC 11.5
Viscosity Index 178
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 1.3
HTHS Viscosity, mPa s at 150 ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.3
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -54
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 217
Density at 15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.85

and

RedLine 10-40

Viscosity Grade SAE 10W40
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 15.1
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 97
Viscosity Index 164
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @ °C 56@-25
Pour Point, °C -45
Pour Point, °F -49
Flash Point, °C 234
Flash Point, °F 454
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 4.4
 
M1 0W-40 or 15W-50 are both fine and won't kill your converter. Racing oil is overkill. (I used the 15W-50 in a real road race car making 600HP and never had a problem) Bearings don't exactly look wiped to me. That supercharger is going to make a lot of cylinder pressure, so don't be lugging the engine when you decide to go WOT. (like pulling from 30MPH in high gear) Just let it get somewhat warm before you hit it.
 
looks like some dirt went through those bearings too. Does that supercharger have an oil return goig back to the oil pan, maybe the people that installed it didn't drop that pan when drilling the hole and didn't try hard enough to keep shavings out of it.
 
I don't think the bearings are gone just that they have more wear than expected. I'm running catless no no issues there.

So does everyone think that M! 15-50 would be too thick?

I'm looking for something that holds up to heat since that looks like the cause of the wear.

I do all my own work and when I installed the SC I pulled the pan and made sure it was clean after drilling the return.

Will the oil companies tell you how much 'moly and ZDDP' their oils have?

Has anyone ever heated up a bearing with a torch and poured different oils on it? I've been told that synthetic will 'run away' from heat and that's why it needs the additives.
 
The bearings don't look "shot" to me. They have had debris run through them, and there are a lot of "wiped" zones where the oil film was not thick enough. But that is just on the overlay. I couldn't definitely see any areas where the copper substrate was showing through the overlay.

Is there any way you can back the oil pressure down? 100 psi at idle, and 75 psi at operating temperature is much more than necessary. Higher oil pressure means the pump will suck the pan dry sooner, increasing the chances for oil starvation.

RedLine 10w40 is my recommendation for oil.
 
It does seem high but there is no way to lower it. Don't worry the pan is huge and has a swing arm set up. It's 10-12 quarts to refill. I'm leaning towards the Redline as well but the 15-50 is recommended for turbo and supercharged motors. Do you think it's too thick.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
The bearings don't look "shot" to me. They have had debris run through them, and there are a lot of "wiped" zones where the oil film was not thick enough. But that is just on the overlay. I couldn't definitely see any areas where the copper substrate was showing through the overlay.

Is there any way you can back the oil pressure down? 100 psi at idle, and 75 psi at operating temperature is much more than necessary. Higher oil pressure means the pump will suck the pan dry sooner, increasing the chances for oil starvation.

RedLine 10w40 is my recommendation for oil.


+1 on the 10w40 Redline. Should be plenty for this beast.
 
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
I'm leaning towards the Redline as well but the 15-50 is recommended for turbo and supercharged motors. Do you think it's too thick.


When comparing oils for a high performance application like this, the important specification is HTHS viscosity, which is a measure of the viscosity of an oil at 150C when it is subjected to high shear rates.

RedLine 10w40 has HTHS of 4.4 centiPoise.
Mobil 1 15w50 has HTHS of 4.5 cP.

So despite the fact that RedLine is a 40-weight according to the kinematic viscosity rating, its HTHS viscosity is only ~2.2% less than the Mobil 50-weight. Therefore, its ability to form an oil film in a bearing at high temperature and high speeds is very nearly the same. But because RedLine's kinematic (low shear) viscosity is lower, it will drain back to the oil pan faster.
 
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