Jacking cars and bending them...

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JHZR2

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So in tool time we discussed the jackpoint brand jack stands, and there is a thread here about jack stands on unibody frame rails. Lots to learn to be smart and safe.

We know how jacks can damage pinch welds and underbody coatings... But what about bending stresses?

Thinking out loud here about putting cars up, especially lifting high enough to get on jack stands. I've read where body to frame weld points have broken, some cars are stuff and short enough that lifting up one wheel causes the other one on the same side to also come off the ground.

There are lots of stresses on by vehicle, especially when lifting up only one quarter of it, high enough to get the wheel off the ground, or even so high that something can be put under it (jackstand).

But what about bending/misaligning/ruining mounts and bushings/putting oddball stresses on the vehicle?

I've seen this said both ways... Do or don't jack up on the control arms, subframes, subframe mount points, jack points, differentials, engine cross-braces, etc, etc. what's right? What approaches will damage the vehicle, be it damage to the structure, or else just misalignment? What's truly right or wrong?

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A lift picks the vehicle up evenly all at once. The weight distributions differ by vehicle, so it's not 1/4 mass on each, but they all lift at the same rate. Jack a car up, you can have one quarter a foot higher than another. Mostly all bending stresses, as the suspension only takes up so much.

So how much is too much? What is damaging and what isn't?

I'm thinking that short of a real lift that picks up a vehicle evenly on four points and unloads the suspension, the best thing may be to get four of those ultralight HF aluminum jacks, which while not the strongest/safest by themselves (I reviewed one once), would share the load four ways.... And then jack with four jacks, one at each official jack point, and get it up so the vehicle is lifted at all four corners at once... Then put it on four jackpoint jackstands.

Good idea? Expensive I know, but anything else puts irregular and inconsistent forces on the vehicle, essentially bending it (even if it is stuff enough to lift up together).

Is this way overthinking it? After reading the frame rail thread and realizing how weak so much of the individual areas of the car are, it really has me wondering...

Thanks for reading my book here!
 
Modern chassis are incredibly stiff. The torsional rigidity of late model cars are leaps and bounds better than cars built just 20 years ago.

2005 Ford Mustang 21,000 Nm/deg
Golf GTI MkV 25,000 Nm/deg
Rolls Royce Phantom 40,500 Nm/deg
Bugatti Veyron 60,000 Nm/deg

Jacking a car up on one jack point wouldn't present stresses that will be detrimental to the chassis integrity even over repeated operations. The car sees more stresses on a regular journey with cornering and braking, and going up driveways.
 
If the designers did their job properly, then the cr should be able to be completely crossed up with no damage (i.e. supported on diagonal wheels)

That being said, my parents' R16 when it got very old would give the windscreen a "click", and the crack would grow a little as the body wore out.

VB Commodore that I had, the front doors would hit the striker plate and not shut properly when one corner was jacked for wheel replacement...coincidentally, when they were racing that model, seam welding the chassis (factory was spot welded) increased the torsional rigidity by in excess of a factor if 3...

Guess that they don't all do the right thing.

If I can, I jack the suspension/axle close to the wheel, that way loads and distortions are real world normal.

If I can't then I can't, and on the Caprice, and formerly the E30, you keep winding and winding and winding while the suspension droops both ends...doors still close preoperly, so not worried.
 
I cracked a corner of the windshield on my cutlass ciera when I hit a frost heave on one corner hard. That car was floppy and the doors did open funny when one corner was jacked.

I folded a pinch weld over when I was young and dumb, jacking on a dirt driveway. The resistance on the jack wheels meant it could not naturally roll forward as the arc of the top part pulled in.

I've had real junkers where I'm afraid to jack on the pinch weld in to go up on the lift. They do fine there, thanks to the mentioned four corners all getting it at once.
 
Originally Posted By: chrome
Modern chassis are incredibly stiff. The torsional rigidity of late model cars are leaps and bounds better than cars built just 20 years ago.

2005 Ford Mustang 21,000 Nm/deg
Golf GTI MkV 25,000 Nm/deg
Rolls Royce Phantom 40,500 Nm/deg
Bugatti Veyron 60,000 Nm/deg

Jacking a car up on one jack point wouldn't present stresses that will be detrimental to the chassis integrity even over repeated operations. The car sees more stresses on a regular journey with cornering and braking, and going up driveways.


Yes but the difference is that even on a driveway, the whole car can take a different angle as it traverses the terrain. Here the car only absorbs as much as the suspension of the other three wheels is willing to compress. The rest is all a true bending stress on the body of the car.

Even if it can stay stiff enough to lift the other wheels and stay straight, it's still a ton of force that isn't usually there. I know the car flexes and moves and bends in regular use, but if you're jacking, it may be a foot difference on one corner. That's a lot more than normal, I'd think.

Even if it doesn't "damage" the structure, can it throw it out of alignment?

Ps, found a big list of torsional stiffness here:
http://www.germancarforum.com/community/threads/the-list-torsional-rigidity.12334/
 
Modern cars are so stiff I don't think this is a problem. The hardest part is finding something to jack them up on since they are all plastic and thin metal.
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2

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Boy, you sure don't like being under the car to work on it, eh? Never thought of this approach for oil coating or exhaust work...
 
Since my newest vehicle has difficult jack/jackstand points, I am interested in this topic and have studied other forum discussions regarding this. Usually, one smart-alec will chime in to say it's not rocket science and anyone who cannot figure out how to jack a car should not be working on it. Yea, right.

I think all the concerns in the OP are legitimate because there is conflicting recommendations out there.

I believe that the use of 2 jacks at a time should be sufficient to reduce stresses. I have a floor jack and a bottle jack.

Also, I seem to remember that most jack stands only recommend only using 2 at a time. I.E., leave two tires on always.

Yes, here it is from the mfg. instruction manuals of Hein Werner and U.S. Jack:

"PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Hein-Werner Jack Stands are designed to support rated capacity, partial vehicle loads consisting of one end of a vehicle. Use as a matched pair to support one end of a vehicle only.
NEVER use automotive jack stands to support both ends or one side of a vehicle! Use only one (1) pair per
vehicle. Rated capacity is per pair only!"



AND:
"U.S. Jack stands are designed to support rated capacity, partial vehicle loads consisting of one end of a vehicle . Use as a matched pair to support one end of a vehicle only.
NEVER use automotive jack stands to support both ends or one side of a vehicle. Use
one (1) pair per vehicle. Rated capacity is per stand."



Exact same wording, except per pair-per stand statement.
 
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I've always used the two floor jack approach to getting my cars up and off the ground to work on them. The one exception to this was the Mountaineer we had that was body on frame, and that was stiff enough that I was confident that one jack at a time on the frame was not doing any damage.

I also remember in my younger days of working in a shop, there was a really nice air powered lift that would slide under either end of the car and raise it like a forklift and hold it in the air as high as needed. I haven't seen one of those in a long time, though.
 
VWs of yore had ONE jack point per side, which was just fore of the rear wheel. However, rot was so prevalent it rendered said points unusable.
 
Funny that you bring this up-On my 2008 coupe I jacked up the drivers front corner at the lift point to rotate the tires. The driver's door did not close correctly or line up with the opening when it was jacked up. Car appeared to be bending.It was okay when I lowered it.I thought it just me. Now someone else observed it!
 
In my next life I am coming back as one of the hyper-wealthy 1%ers, so I can have a fully equipped workshop/garage with a couple of different types of full lifts, and not even have to worry about things like the topic of this thread.
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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
In my next life I am coming back as one of the hyper-wealthy 1%ers, so I can have a fully equipped workshop/garage with a couple of different types of full lifts, and not even have to worry about things like the topic of this thread.
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But how about some practical solutions for those of us wanting to know today???
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I cracked a corner of the windshield on my cutlass ciera when I hit a frost heave on one corner hard. That car was floppy and the doors did open funny when one corner was jacked.

I folded a pinch weld over when I was young and dumb, jacking on a dirt driveway. The resistance on the jack wheels meant it could not naturally roll forward as the arc of the top part pulled in.

I've had real junkers where I'm afraid to jack on the pinch weld in to go up on the lift. They do fine there, thanks to the mentioned four corners all getting it at once.


I have noticed the exact same thing with my 93 ciera. If the rear corner is jacked up. the opposite door will drag/catch if you try to open or shut it. A really loose frame.
 
The Trans Am is hard to lift. I usually, if working on the rear of the car, lift it up from the rear diff then put jack stands where the lower control arms mount to the unibody.

The front is tricky, but I lift from the sub frame and it is pretty solid even with the T-tops.

If I lift up just the front of the car from either side, I can still pull out the T-tops and open and close both doors with no problems.

You should see when I have to the grease the wheel bearings on the travel trailer. That is an evolution.
 
Gah! Even more to worry about!!
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It seems like if the bending stresses from jacking, even one corner at a time, caused problems in general then we'd all know about it, considering how many people jack up their cars.

Originally Posted By: doitmyself

Also, I seem to remember that most jack stands only recommend only using 2 at a time. I.E., leave two tires on always.

Yes, here it is from the mfg. instruction manuals of Hein Werner and U.S. Jack:

...

Exact same wording, except per pair-per stand statement.


I always assumed that was for safety reasons, since the car could slip off the stands at one end while jacking the other end up, if your angle is too extreme. But I've never had a problem jacking both ends of a car on stands -- I always keep the stands at a relatively low setting anyway and never get very sharp angles in play.
 
Cars with very large windshields (front or back) are at risk of cracking the glass from body flex. Some mid-engine exotics, because they are very wide and have large front windshield, will crack the windshield if you lift by one corner
 
If I had it to do over again, I'd be more careful with lowering the car onto jack stands. As it is, I've got some dents on the subframe rails by dropping the car too fast.
 
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