G35 07 engine oil- Brian crower stage 2 cams

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EJK

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Oct 29, 2013
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Lebanon
Hey guys I recently installed the stage 2 cams on my 07 g35 coupe AT and they are impressive however I have some questions about the oil that need to be used for the car after the installation... I was using Mobile 1 5-30 before the cams and changing it after 2000 miles but they guy that installed the cams told me that this oil with the new cams will spoil the engine and that I should use total racing 10-50 instead. Furthermore I contact Brian crower company asking the same question and the reply was that I should stay awal from synthetic oil and use petroleum based racing oil high in zinc. Now the question is what's the best engine oil to use with this mod?
So if anyone can help I would appreciate it, keep in mind that I live in the middle east (Lebanon) so climate needs to be taken into consideration
regards
 
how much HP and Torque did you get out of the cams? go ahead with the 10w50. ps syn and conventional oil is petroleum so regardless go with a synthetic 10w50.
 
Dear sasha

when I first dynoed the car it was pulling 310 hp(engine) and 297 torque with cams it pulled 353 hp at 7300 rpm,red line now is 7500 rpm... Keep in mind that the cams are not the only mods on the car... K&N CAI/pulleys/ Megan racing headers/ Megan racing resonated test pipes/hks exhaust /NGK iridium 9 spark plugs
 
Originally Posted By: EJK
Dear sasha

when I first dynoed the car it was pulling 310 hp(engine) and 297 torque with cams it pulled 353 hp at 7300 rpm,red line now is 7500 rpm... Keep in mind that the cams are not the only mods on the car... K&N CAI/pulleys/ Megan racing headers/ Megan racing resonated test pipes/hks exhaust /NGK iridium 9 spark plugs

297 torque? Regardless if that's to the engine, that's pretty good for that engine with those mods.

No way would I run ngk 9 spark plugs, you really don't need to, if you were boosted and putting out much more power, sure. 7 at most.
 
Thank you trinh, and I still have cosworth manifold and transgo to be installed. Do you have any ideas concerning the oil? Is mobile 1 5w30 ok or total racing 10w50?
 
When I put cams in another car (Crane maybe) they told me that the warranty would be void if I used synthetic oil. I wasn't too worried about warranty, and used M1 after break-in, but was surprised that they were so adamant that Dino oil was used.

As an aside, my engine builder was also very anti synthetic oil - said he could always tell an engine that had run syn oil by the amount of scoring on the cylinder walls. I ignored him too.
 
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
When I put cams in another car (Crane maybe) they told me that the warranty would be void if I used synthetic oil. I wasn't too worried about warranty, and used M1 after break-in, but was surprised that they were so adamant that Dino oil was used.

As an aside, my engine builder was also very anti synthetic oil - said he could always tell an engine that had run syn oil by the amount of scoring on the cylinder walls. I ignored him too.
thats the kind of (quote)mechanic/builder(quote) i would stay 100 miles away from. someone needs to tell this guy that many manufactures, millions of hours and miles of R&D went into synthetic oils and their engines.
 
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
When I put cams in another car (Crane maybe) they told me that the warranty would be void if I used synthetic oil. I wasn't too worried about warranty, and used M1 after break-in, but was surprised that they were so adamant that Dino oil was used.

As an aside, my engine builder was also very anti synthetic oil - said he could always tell an engine that had run syn oil by the amount of scoring on the cylinder walls. I ignored him too.



Glad to see that ignorance is still alive and well, even at the corporate level...
 
I think we really need to know what kind spring pressure you've got and what oil temps/pressures you're seeing before you can get a solid recommendation.

Most OHC setups don't typically see the spring pressure (and resulting cam lobe load) that an OHV engine would because the valve spring isn't required to control the movement of a heavy lifter, push rod and rocker arm. Therefor the high zinc requirement may be unnecessary. I'm somewhat unfamiliar with that valvetrain setup.. Does it have roller followers? Those don't require all the zinc that a heavily loaded flat tappet sliding follower would.

Oil temps during use will tell you if you need to deviate from OE recommendations. For example, if you are seeing 100-120c temps, and still getting satisfactory oil pressure, then it's not likely you'll need to go to a thicker grade. I know the those engines run pretty warm, so it my well be that you need to step up a grade. Mobil 1 has their 0w-40, which is an excellent oil, by all accounts.
 
I have zero scoring on the aftermarket cams in my 328Ci after almost 30k miles, and the entire engine is built (full head build and machining w Ferrea valves and Ti accessory parts, flow benched, port matched, ported, extrude honed head... The entire bottom end upgraded except for the crank which waskept but printed and knife edged), running 10.8:1 compression, and ffurthermore is supercharged w a custom made Lysholm twin screw unit that, depending on the pulley I'm running, produces anywhere from 11 to over 21psi of boost.
The oil? Redline 0-5w40 or RP HPS on street and RL race spec oil for track. 20k mile post build tear down and inspection showed absolutely no wear anywhere, it was amazing. Furthermore, zero sludge and barely a hint of varnish anywhere in the motor.

Oil temps have always been exactly right, although I have an oil cooler now just in case.
I recommend Redline 100 percent, one of the only companies that has earned my complete trust and faith in their products.
 
I ran 5w30 before and after I put high rev cams in my Zx2. I did 40k before and 35k after when the guy I sold it do replaced the valve cover gasket everything still looked new. Before the cams it redlined @ 7200 and 7800 after, and it spent a lot of time up in high RPM's.
 
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