Anyone know of an inexpensive filter that could be put inline on a heater hose?
All I can find are ones that cost $50
All I can find are ones that cost $50
Inline coolant filter heater hose?
- Thread starter cronk
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Get a male and female 5\8 hose fittings and a washing machine filter screen at the hardware store.
Yes, there are two I have seen, but the price is about what you mention.
Some would say a solution looking for a problem in today's vehicles using current long life coolant.
Some would say a solution looking for a problem in today's vehicles using current long life coolant.
I've got a fuel filter on my Taurus at the return to the pressurized reservoir . It's not a permanent solution but there to catch large debris for the time being hopefully cleaning the system slightly. It just found a metal Fram fuel filter with the same size hose and clamped it in place. I try not to dog my engine In case it's any sort of restriction. Can't wait to open it up.
I may try the garden hose fittings. The problem is, I have a brand new engine, a brand new rad, and crud is coming out of my heater core. I tried to flush the heater core before all this, but must be the coolant is cleaning junk out of it.
I should have just bit the bullet and put a new heater core in it while it was all apart.
I should have just bit the bullet and put a new heater core in it while it was all apart.
I do worry about hoses and add-ons breaking however.
I was riding in a tow truck yesterday picking something I bought up and the oil gauge started reading 5 to 20 PSI along with warning buzzer. This is an expensive diesel engine that holds 32 QTs of oil. The driver decided to drive the 3-4 miles back to the shop. They found a hose had a crack or hole (unsure), taped it and let the driver finish up getting the thing to my house.
Were is my vehicle I would have stopped immediately, figured out the issue and probably added oil, before driving on.
I was riding in a tow truck yesterday picking something I bought up and the oil gauge started reading 5 to 20 PSI along with warning buzzer. This is an expensive diesel engine that holds 32 QTs of oil. The driver decided to drive the 3-4 miles back to the shop. They found a hose had a crack or hole (unsure), taped it and let the driver finish up getting the thing to my house.
Were is my vehicle I would have stopped immediately, figured out the issue and probably added oil, before driving on.
Cronk,
Had the same worry, New radiator and hoses and flush. Back flushed the heater core. [censored] still coning from somewhere. My garden hose filter contraption was full the first 4 days, and 25% full for a couple days after that. I got tired of pulling it, and install a Transdapt 1028 Oil filter mount and a purolator classic L30001. I needed two brass splicers and two 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barbs and plumbed it right in line.
Mounted it on decking pates screwed to the battery tray. I got 25$ and an hour in it.
I will run it a while and pull it after 5 K figuring I got most of the [censored] out. Will change the first filter at 250 miles then a 1000 miles and then at 5 K.
Had the same worry, New radiator and hoses and flush. Back flushed the heater core. [censored] still coning from somewhere. My garden hose filter contraption was full the first 4 days, and 25% full for a couple days after that. I got tired of pulling it, and install a Transdapt 1028 Oil filter mount and a purolator classic L30001. I needed two brass splicers and two 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barbs and plumbed it right in line.
Mounted it on decking pates screwed to the battery tray. I got 25$ and an hour in it.
I will run it a while and pull it after 5 K figuring I got most of the [censored] out. Will change the first filter at 250 miles then a 1000 miles and then at 5 K.
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Cronk,
Had the same worry, New radiator and hoses and flush. Back flushed the heater core. [censored] still coning from somewhere. My garden hose filter contraption was full the first 4 days, and 25% full for a couple days after that. I got tired of pulling it, and install a Transdapt 1028 Oil filter mount and a purolator classic L30001. I needed two brass splicers and two 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barbs and plumbed it right in line.
Mounted it on decking pates screwed to the battery tray. I got 25$ and an hour in it.
I will run it a while and pull it after 5 K figuring I got most of the [censored] out. Will change the first filter at 250 miles then a 1000 miles and then at 5 K.
Update: Pulled the oil filter qt 250 miles. light grit and particles in pleats, but nowhere near plugged. no damage or distortion of the filtering material. contiues to blow hot air fine, so guessing minimal restriction to the flow through the heater core. Think I am good to 1000 k change. I can post pics to my Flickr album if anyone interested, but can't figure out how to post them in thread.
Cronk,
Had the same worry, New radiator and hoses and flush. Back flushed the heater core. [censored] still coning from somewhere. My garden hose filter contraption was full the first 4 days, and 25% full for a couple days after that. I got tired of pulling it, and install a Transdapt 1028 Oil filter mount and a purolator classic L30001. I needed two brass splicers and two 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barbs and plumbed it right in line.
Mounted it on decking pates screwed to the battery tray. I got 25$ and an hour in it.
I will run it a while and pull it after 5 K figuring I got most of the [censored] out. Will change the first filter at 250 miles then a 1000 miles and then at 5 K.
Update: Pulled the oil filter qt 250 miles. light grit and particles in pleats, but nowhere near plugged. no damage or distortion of the filtering material. contiues to blow hot air fine, so guessing minimal restriction to the flow through the heater core. Think I am good to 1000 k change. I can post pics to my Flickr album if anyone interested, but can't figure out how to post them in thread.
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