Recommended Oil for 2014 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo

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Need a little advise...

Just bought the wife a new car since she's going to be driving about 50 miles one way to work starting next month. Couldn't justify doing that in the Tahoe.

Anyway I'm looking for a little help on oil recommendations. I plan on using synthetic and I'm looking for something OTC. I've always used Mobil 1 because there is usually one auto store running a sale on oil and filter but I'll most likely be using the OEM Hyundai oil filter while I'm still in warranty.

Car has 300 miles on it and I plan to do the first oil change at 1000 and then hopefully every 3000, but with the long commute racking up miles quick and 2 kids keeping us busy oil change intervals in the 4000/4500 range will likely happen once or twice.

We live in OK so weather can be extreme with summers reaching 100+ at times and winters occasionally dipping down to the teens. Car will be garage kept so at night it won't see temps to low. The commute is 50 miles one way all on the turnpike so she'll be running 75 mph back and forth.

Dealer said they use 5w-20 but the oil cap says 5w-30. Should I be considering something besides Mobil 1 5w-30?

Side note, are there any recommendations for engine break in like don't use cruise control for a certain period etc..

Here's pic, it's will definitely be a transition learning how to get in and out of a car again versus climbing up or falling out of the Tahoe.
 
I would use the recommended weight on the oil filler cap/owners manual.

It should cover any break-in recommendations too.

I think that the 5W20 oil would be for the non-turbo 2.4 liter engine.
 
What is interesting to me is in 2011 when I had a sonata the 2.0t took a 40w now it's a 30w. Mmmmmm

You know with DI fuel dilution issues and that turbo I would run M1 0w40 or GC 0w30 in this application.

May cost ya a mpg or 2 but that's what I would use.

Jeff
 
I would go with PU 5w30 or M1 AFE 0W30, PU would be my 1st choice. Get either at WAL-MART for about $25. Definitely want a good synthetic with a turbo and PU is one of the best on the market in a 30. Both oils provide good circulation at start up which will protect the turbo.

Btw, you may wanna let it warm up in the morning. Its gonna be cold as heck tonight!
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
What is interesting to me is in 2011 when I had a sonata the 2.0t took a 40w now it's a 30w. Mmmmmm

You know with DI fuel dilution issues and that turbo I would run M1 0w40 or GC 0w30 in this application.

May cost ya a mpg or 2 but that's what I would use.

Jeff


If the M1 0w40 didnt affect his warranty I would say its the best possible choice.....but I think its the best choice for most cars.
lol.gif
 
I would say your best bet is to use the heaviest oil you can. In a 30 weight it will probably be the GC 0w30 unless anyone can think of one thicker. 20 weight is totally out of the question because these motors are not only hard on the oil because of the turbo but dump tons of fuel in the oil diluting down a grade in no time. I had a Kia Optima (same basic car and motor) and while mine wasn't turbo I still used a grade higher(5w30) than the recommended 5w20 because the fuel dilution was ridiculous. I would probably use synthetic in your car since it is turbo but I am not sure I would go much past the recommended interval of 3,000 or 3,750 or whatever you manual says. Many use 0w40 or 5w40 in the cars that allowed it by the owner's manual and it seems to beat up those tough oils pretty bad. If you are going to get it serviced at the dealer I would strongly recommend watching them put in the oil to make sure you don't get the 5w20. Don't imagine it would survive too well on that oil for very long.
 
Being that new, follow the manual recommendations. If it calls for an SN/GF-5 5w-30 (and mentions A1 or A5 in the manual) and you're stuck on a synthetic, follow the recommendations. M1, PU, QSUD, and Syntec all spring to mind.
 
Can you run Rotella T6, M1 0w-40, or GC and be within the requirements as per the owner's manual?

Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 would be my first choice if none of the above will work.


Do an early oil change and vary engine speeds for the first 1,000 miles.
 
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Great engine, confusing oil recommendations. I know, I have the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T same engine. Cap says 5w30, om says 5w or 10w30 inside, back of om includes 5w20. Ours says nothing about 5w40 like the Genesis Coupe and Sonata 2.0T manual recommends for improved protection. It recommends SM/GF-4 and then springs ACEA A5 on us. Many of us have discussed this at nauseum. Because there is no synthetic requirements and the mandated oci are so short, some of us use conventional SN oils which surpass specs. Others are more inclined to go synthetic for the added protection. If you are going synthetic at 3k mi intervals, any SN otc will work. QSUD, PP, SYNpower, Edge, M1... I would go the full 5k on a syn. Incidentally, my dipstick has never smelled of gas as some other's have, for whatever that's worth.

Enjoy the ride
smile.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
Being that new, follow the manual recommendations. If it calls for an SN/GF-5 5w-30 (and mentions A1 or A5 in the manual) and you're stuck on a synthetic, follow the recommendations. M1, PU, QSUD, and Syntec all spring to mind.


+1
 
PP or Mobil1 in 5w30 meets the Honda/Acua turbo spec and showed excellent UOAs for my DI turbo using a 6,000 mile oil change interval. I would not be doing a 1,000 mile first oil change. Follow the factory recomendation on OCI ans viscosity and grade. Ed
 
Here is what the owners manual says and I definitely want to stay within warranty.

I got the dealer to agree to free oil changes for the first 2 years every 3000 miles and not just standard 2 year oil change which is really just 6 oil changes. That said I'll be bringing in my own oil and basically be getting a filter and free labor, and yes I will be watching them like a hawk to make sure they use what I bring.

 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
PP or Mobil1 in 5w30 meets the Honda/Acua turbo spec and showed excellent UOAs for my DI turbo using a 6,000 mile oil change interval. I would not be doing a 1,000 mile first oil change. Follow the factory recomendation on OCI ans viscosity and grade. Ed


Why wouldn't you do a 1000 mile oil change? Just a waste of money or is there a reason behind it? I figured it wouldn't hurt if anything to switch to synthetic at 1000.
 
I probably should have researched the 2.0 a little more since I've never owned a turbo. I actually had no intent on buying the 2.0 so kudos to the salesman for getting me to test drive it because the difference between the 2.4 and the 2.0 was substantial and I just couldn't go back to the 2.4.

Guess, I should have let the wife pick the car since she's driving it, all she wanted was the Bluetooth to talk and play music from her iPhone. LOL
 
It looks like Rotella T6 is within spec. 5w-40 and API SM. Considering the library of UOAs the turbo Subaru crowd has on the stuff, I'd go that route. It seems to keep turbos happy.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
It looks like Rotella T6 is within spec. 5w-40 and API SM. Considering the library of UOAs the turbo Subaru crowd has on the stuff, I'd go that route. It seems to keep turbos happy.


Another portion of the manual mentions ACEA A5 or above along with ILSAC GF-4 and API Service SM.

Is the Rotella T6 within those specs? You'll have to forgive me I'm not an oil expert, which is why I'm here.
 
I would do the 1000 mile OCI and then let the dealer do the 3000 mile changes for 2 years or whatever with their own oil. Then when warranty is up switch to M1 0w40 and do a UOA at the first 4000 and see what you get. You should be good to at least 5000 with the 0w40.
 
Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
It looks like Rotella T6 is within spec. 5w-40 and API SM. Considering the library of UOAs the turbo Subaru crowd has on the stuff, I'd go that route. It seems to keep turbos happy.


Another portion of the manual mentions ACEA A5 or above along with ILSAC GF-4 and API Service SM.

Is the Rotella T6 within those specs? You'll have to forgive me I'm not an oil expert, which is why I'm here.



you dont have to meet all those specs, the dealer oil change is a conventional (non ACEA) oil. Dealer and HyundaiUSA have advised me recently, that the ACEA is more geared towards these cars sold in Europe where the ACEA holds more significance. Here in North America, the API SM/ILSAC GF-4 holds more weight. T6 is great oil, no ILSAC rating though.
 
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knowing you were going to be picky about the oil why negotiate for free oil changes? Id rather have some oem all weather floor mats, trunk liner, etc

That being said I would ask the dealer for a list of oils you can choose from and go from there
 
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