Yamaha WR250F Best OCI?

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I was wondering what the recommended OCI would be for my 01 WR250F? I don't race, very rarely go to the track (taken it twice, and I ride the mini track). Usually pretty easy on the throttle and shift around 10-11K. I do fire roads riding and occasionally a trip to the desert in southern california.

Currently I'm running Mobil 1 Syn 10W40 or Castrol Synethic 10W40 (whatever's cheaper).

Thanks for the tips.
 
I would suggest that you change the oil after every trip riding if it's 3 hours or more, every two trips if less. It's the shared transmission that tears up the oil.
 
Although those earlier WR's have proven to be quite reliable... There are those who have had crankshaft problems. I suspect, but don't know for sure that this is related to crack propagation from the oil hole in the journal. Again, not sure if it has anything to do with maintenance. Certainly, it may have something to do with extensive high RPM operation.

I echo the thoughts above. I'd change the oil frequently.
 
I had a 2003 WR250F and now ride a 2011 WR450F. I track hours not miles since where I ride is more technical and slow vs open and fast. I have been running SRT 15W-40 with good results. I usually change it after 2 days of riding which is around 10 Hrs. Also clean and oil the AF at that time as well. Chain gets cleaned and lubed after every day of riding. Check Valves at the end of the season (for my schedule).
I had my 2003 for 9 years and I think the only thing I had to do to it was replace the fork seals once.
These bikes only hold about a quart of oil.

PB130004.jpg
 
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the wr250f is the detuned (via retarded camshaft and carb junk) of my yz250f that i have done 70+ uoa's on.

while there was a batch of cranks (big crank pin actually that was not lined up properly) that had failures it was a very isolated.

use any oil you want if you change at 5hrs of motor time.

if you want to spend $20 a litre, you can maybe make it to 10hrs before the oil is beat to death. if you twist the right hand that is.

steve

p.s. if you want ***THE*** site for dirtbikes -> www.thumpertalk.com
i have been the super mod there in the yamaha 250f forum for 13 years now.
 
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Well, I think I was one of the "lucky" ones.

My rod bearing seized (pix/thread) about 4 hours after I bought it off craigslist. New crank had a new part number, but I didn't see any cracks on the old crank's oil hole.

I do have lots of mods, including YZ exhaust cam, YZ ign timing, throttle stop & airbox lid delete, FMF full exhaust.

Mine holds 1.6 qts (oil tank in the frame), not sure if that makes a difference or not.

I guess the math is the same for me either way. 5 hours with dino oil at $5/qt vs 10 hours with syn at $10/qt.

That's a nice looking WR you have there, JetStar. Mine's seen a lot more use
smile.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: jamesm113
Well, I think I was one of the "lucky" ones.

My rod bearing seized (pix/thread) about 4 hours after I bought it off craigslist. New crank had a new part number, but I didn't see any cracks on the old crank's oil hole.

I do have lots of mods, including YZ exhaust cam, YZ ign timing, throttle stop & airbox lid delete, FMF full exhaust.

Mine holds 1.6 qts (oil tank in the frame), not sure if that makes a difference or not.

I guess the math is the same for me either way. 5 hours with dino oil at $5/qt vs 10 hours with syn at $10/qt.

That's a nice looking WR you have there, JetStar. Mine's seen a lot more use
smile.gif



Thanks, IIRC that was taken the day I got it new. If I were riding MX I'd probably change at 5Hrs or sooner too.
 
Originally Posted By: jamesm113

I guess the math is the same for me either way. 5 hours with dino oil at $5/qt vs 10 hours with syn at $10/qt.


well you are starting off with flawed math.

i've not tested any oil to 10hrs, but only a few make it past 5.
and i'd almost bet you are not using one of those few.
 
Ok, my mistake. I'm new to this
smile.gif


Looking through your previous UOA's it seems one of your favorites was Exxon Superflo. Was that just regular car oil? Since they don't seem to make that anymore, do you have a new favorite?

Was also thinking about Rotella T or T6.

One concept I'm having a little trouble wrapping around is my street bike (06 sv650s) has a factory recommended OCI of 4K miles. It also has a shared sump and wet clutch.

Granted, it's a v-twin so the cylinders are moving half as fast, the red line is 3K lower and the compression ratio is 11.5:1, not 12.5:1. And of course the WR is in a much harsher environment.

However, perhaps my poor math skills are showing again, but I feel like that doesn't completely explain moving from an OCI of 4k to 4 hours.

Thanks
 
01wr250f holds 1.6L
i know i owned/raced a 01yz250f for 5 years. many of my oci's are from it. the others are from its replacement an 06yz250f.

i know the 01-13 motor inside and out.

i've done 72 uoa's on it. starting at $20 and now $25 you can figure out how much i've spent on just that doing uoa's.

i've tested so many oils (but a far cry from all of them) to prove my signature that i dont need to test them all.

mobil special replace superflo - but i've not tested it.

extremely hard to beat Shell Rotella T 15w40 white jug.
but any of the hdeo's will do.

steve
 
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