Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
My car didn't come with the Pirelli's mine came with Dunlop A/S Tires
Same here.
My car didn't come with the Pirelli's mine came with Dunlop A/S Tires
Same here.
DI intake valve deposits
- Thread starter Jeffs2006EvoIX
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Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
The GTI is a great car. The intake valve issue is what it is. Time will tell.
Yes. Drive more, worry less.
You are totally right. I keep telling myself worrying is like being in a rocking chair. . yeah its something to do but gets you nowhere. (Van Wilder)
it's the car guy in me that gets bothered by things like this.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
The GTI is a great car. The intake valve issue is what it is. Time will tell.
Yes. Drive more, worry less.
You are totally right. I keep telling myself worrying is like being in a rocking chair. . yeah its something to do but gets you nowhere. (Van Wilder)
it's the car guy in me that gets bothered by things like this.
Jeff
I have two reports on Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-40 full synthetic Noack.
Older spec on 5w-40 has Noack at 11% and latest spec. shows Noack at 6.8%. Looks like Pennzoil has changed there blend for a lower Noack.
I currently use Liqui Moly (LM) Synthoil High Tech 5w-40 which has sulphate ash of 1.2 for better wear resistance and Noack of 7.0%
Not rated for newer diesel with exhaust cleaning systems as they require lower sulphate ash not higher than .8%.
Older spec on 5w-40 has Noack at 11% and latest spec. shows Noack at 6.8%. Looks like Pennzoil has changed there blend for a lower Noack.
I currently use Liqui Moly (LM) Synthoil High Tech 5w-40 which has sulphate ash of 1.2 for better wear resistance and Noack of 7.0%
Not rated for newer diesel with exhaust cleaning systems as they require lower sulphate ash not higher than .8%.
Originally Posted By: mesa
I have two reports on Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-40 full synthetic Noack.
Older spec on 5w-40 has Noack at 11% and latest spec. shows Noack at 6.8%. Looks like Pennzoil has changed there blend for a lower Noack.
I currently use Liqui Moly (LM) Synthoil High Tech 5w-40 which has sulphate ash of 1.2 for better wear resistance and Noack of 7.0%
Not rated for newer diesel with exhaust cleaning systems as they require lower sulphate ash not higher than .8%.
I thought older spec 5W40 had lower then 10% considering it met MB229.5?
I know 5W30 Euro is 11%!
I have two reports on Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-40 full synthetic Noack.
Older spec on 5w-40 has Noack at 11% and latest spec. shows Noack at 6.8%. Looks like Pennzoil has changed there blend for a lower Noack.
I currently use Liqui Moly (LM) Synthoil High Tech 5w-40 which has sulphate ash of 1.2 for better wear resistance and Noack of 7.0%
Not rated for newer diesel with exhaust cleaning systems as they require lower sulphate ash not higher than .8%.
I thought older spec 5W40 had lower then 10% considering it met MB229.5?
I know 5W30 Euro is 11%!
This off Pennzoil technical data sheet dated May 2009. I printed spec sheet over 1 year a year ago and have no idea where I found it. I was doing some research on Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40 that was put in my sons Audi at dealer in Santa Ana Calif.
Current Pennzoil web sight doesn't show spec sheet for Ultra Euro 5w-40. Specs may be in there web sight some where but not with a normal link.
Pennzoil sight shows specs. for full synthetic oil with spec. for 5w-20 12.6% Noack, 5w-30 Noack 11.9% and 10w-30 11.2% Noack.
Current Pennzoil web sight doesn't show spec sheet for Ultra Euro 5w-40. Specs may be in there web sight some where but not with a normal link.
Pennzoil sight shows specs. for full synthetic oil with spec. for 5w-20 12.6% Noack, 5w-30 Noack 11.9% and 10w-30 11.2% Noack.
Just did a web search and found on Pennzoil web page dated Jan 2013 > Ultra Euro 5w-40 with Noack of 6.8%
Originally Posted By: mesa
Just did a web search and found on Pennzoil web page dated Jan 2013 > Ultra Euro 5w-40 with Noack of 6.8%
Yeah I know. The new versions has very low NOACK.
Older one met MB 229.5 so it should have below 10%, but I also found old pds where is says 11%. Go figure.
Just did a web search and found on Pennzoil web page dated Jan 2013 > Ultra Euro 5w-40 with Noack of 6.8%
Yeah I know. The new versions has very low NOACK.
Older one met MB 229.5 so it should have below 10%, but I also found old pds where is says 11%. Go figure.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Older one met MB 229.5 so it should have below 10%, but I also found old pds where is says 11%. Go figure.
Yup. I called SOPUS out on it. They said it was a "typo" and promised to correct it. They never did, and then the API SN version came out.
Older one met MB 229.5 so it should have below 10%, but I also found old pds where is says 11%. Go figure.
Yup. I called SOPUS out on it. They said it was a "typo" and promised to correct it. They never did, and then the API SN version came out.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Older one met MB 229.5 so it should have below 10%, but I also found old pds where is says 11%. Go figure.
Yup. I called SOPUS out on it. They said it was a "typo" and promised to correct it. They never did, and then the API SN version came out.
lol, "shocking," considering it is coming from SOPUS
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Older one met MB 229.5 so it should have below 10%, but I also found old pds where is says 11%. Go figure.
Yup. I called SOPUS out on it. They said it was a "typo" and promised to correct it. They never did, and then the API SN version came out.
lol, "shocking," considering it is coming from SOPUS
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
The GTI is a great car. The intake valve issue is what it is. Time will tell.
Yes. Drive more, worry less.
You are totally right. I keep telling myself worrying is like being in a rocking chair. . yeah its something to do but gets you nowhere. (Van Wilder)
it's the car guy in me that gets bothered by things like this.
Jeff
I know exactly what you mean, which is why I've got a Civic instead of a JSw TDI today. High pressure fuel pumps and hydro-locking for $7,000, Alex!
As to the intake deposits, why not buy an inspection camera and take a look at them as a part of each oil change? They're not really expensive these days, I saw one that hooked to a computer for ~$50 the other day.
I'm going to do it with my WRX and Civic, though I don't expect to see much. I'm actually more worried about the Civic than the WRX, what with EGR and a fancy dual-runner intake manifold.
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
The GTI is a great car. The intake valve issue is what it is. Time will tell.
Yes. Drive more, worry less.
You are totally right. I keep telling myself worrying is like being in a rocking chair. . yeah its something to do but gets you nowhere. (Van Wilder)
it's the car guy in me that gets bothered by things like this.
Jeff
I know exactly what you mean, which is why I've got a Civic instead of a JSw TDI today. High pressure fuel pumps and hydro-locking for $7,000, Alex!
As to the intake deposits, why not buy an inspection camera and take a look at them as a part of each oil change? They're not really expensive these days, I saw one that hooked to a computer for ~$50 the other day.
I'm going to do it with my WRX and Civic, though I don't expect to see much. I'm actually more worried about the Civic than the WRX, what with EGR and a fancy dual-runner intake manifold.
Originally Posted By: gpshumway
I'm going to do it with my WRX and Civic, though I don't expect to see much. I'm actually more worried about the Civic than the WRX, what with EGR and a fancy dual-runner intake manifold.
Dual-stage IMs are not new or fancy. They've been around for 20+ years. Even the variable length IMs are not that crazy anymore.
I'm going to do it with my WRX and Civic, though I don't expect to see much. I'm actually more worried about the Civic than the WRX, what with EGR and a fancy dual-runner intake manifold.
Dual-stage IMs are not new or fancy. They've been around for 20+ years. Even the variable length IMs are not that crazy anymore.
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The camera idea is good. You can get one at harbor freight pretty cheap too.
That is something I may look into along with a nice 4th gear Highway drive for 20min every month or so. Only way to really get those valves hot enough to "self clean".
I realize people drive "hard" or have a track day here and there but my understanding is its the constant high rpm for 20-30 minutes at over 3k rpm is what does the trick. Most tracks I was on a lap takes 2-3 minutes then you pit. Especially in a car like the GTI. After 2-3 laps the brakes are done anyway.
I think the freeway idea in 4th is safe and easy. Only Loss is a little more gas.
Jeff
That is something I may look into along with a nice 4th gear Highway drive for 20min every month or so. Only way to really get those valves hot enough to "self clean".
I realize people drive "hard" or have a track day here and there but my understanding is its the constant high rpm for 20-30 minutes at over 3k rpm is what does the trick. Most tracks I was on a lap takes 2-3 minutes then you pit. Especially in a car like the GTI. After 2-3 laps the brakes are done anyway.
I think the freeway idea in 4th is safe and easy. Only Loss is a little more gas.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: gpshumway
I'm going to do it with my WRX and Civic, though I don't expect to see much. I'm actually more worried about the Civic than the WRX, what with EGR and a fancy dual-runner intake manifold.
Dual-stage IMs are not new or fancy. They've been around for 20+ years. Even the variable length IMs are not that crazy anymore.
[censored], give it a rest. No need to "educate" me. I had two of the Ford Duratech V6 cars with the dual stage manifold, both of which got clogged by deposits necessitating expensive replacement parts and time consuming cleaning. That's what I mean by "fancy". Even if there are deposits in the WRX there aren't any moving parts to foul.
Originally Posted By: gpshumway
I'm going to do it with my WRX and Civic, though I don't expect to see much. I'm actually more worried about the Civic than the WRX, what with EGR and a fancy dual-runner intake manifold.
Dual-stage IMs are not new or fancy. They've been around for 20+ years. Even the variable length IMs are not that crazy anymore.
[censored], give it a rest. No need to "educate" me. I had two of the Ford Duratech V6 cars with the dual stage manifold, both of which got clogged by deposits necessitating expensive replacement parts and time consuming cleaning. That's what I mean by "fancy". Even if there are deposits in the WRX there aren't any moving parts to foul.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Just would like the forums view on this quote from Penzoil in regards to intake valve deposits and oil and what not.
Oil volatility is not a significant factor for inlet valve deposits in a direct injection gasoline engine. The significant factor is viscosity modifier type and concentration, so using fully synthetic narrow span viscosity grades such as 5W-20 is beneficial. In North America, there is no specification calling for NOACK of less than 10%. The most important thing for DI engines is engine design, to better prevent deposits on ITV’s (In Take Valves), since there is no fuel wash as in PFI (Port Fuel Injection) engines. "
So if this is the case would an oil like Redline 5w30 be of benefit?
Jeff
I can only comment on my personal experience which is documented extensively here in these forums...
My previous car was an 2008 Audi A6 3.2 and the valves would gunk up to the extreme every 1,000 miles (yes, every 1,000 miles) that the only recourse I had was having the dealership on a brand new car pulling the headers off and manually scrap the values as best they could then using crushed walnuts to spot clean the rest. By 10,000 miles on a brand new car the dealership, Audi USA, and my patience ran out. No I was not lucky enough to get a new engine, because we found a winning combination that mitigated the problem and kept the car running well enough that I eventually put 100,000 miles on it.
Fuel: Exxon/Mobil or Shell 93 octane
Fuel Additive: Chevron Tektron in every other tank fill.
Oil: Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 (imported from Germany)
BG Valve cleaning system every 10,000 - 15,000 miles.
Just would like the forums view on this quote from Penzoil in regards to intake valve deposits and oil and what not.
Oil volatility is not a significant factor for inlet valve deposits in a direct injection gasoline engine. The significant factor is viscosity modifier type and concentration, so using fully synthetic narrow span viscosity grades such as 5W-20 is beneficial. In North America, there is no specification calling for NOACK of less than 10%. The most important thing for DI engines is engine design, to better prevent deposits on ITV’s (In Take Valves), since there is no fuel wash as in PFI (Port Fuel Injection) engines. "
So if this is the case would an oil like Redline 5w30 be of benefit?
Jeff
I can only comment on my personal experience which is documented extensively here in these forums...
My previous car was an 2008 Audi A6 3.2 and the valves would gunk up to the extreme every 1,000 miles (yes, every 1,000 miles) that the only recourse I had was having the dealership on a brand new car pulling the headers off and manually scrap the values as best they could then using crushed walnuts to spot clean the rest. By 10,000 miles on a brand new car the dealership, Audi USA, and my patience ran out. No I was not lucky enough to get a new engine, because we found a winning combination that mitigated the problem and kept the car running well enough that I eventually put 100,000 miles on it.
Fuel: Exxon/Mobil or Shell 93 octane
Fuel Additive: Chevron Tektron in every other tank fill.
Oil: Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 (imported from Germany)
BG Valve cleaning system every 10,000 - 15,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: ikolbyi
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Just would like the forums view on this quote from Penzoil in regards to intake valve deposits and oil and what not.
Oil volatility is not a significant factor for inlet valve deposits in a direct injection gasoline engine. The significant factor is viscosity modifier type and concentration, so using fully synthetic narrow span viscosity grades such as 5W-20 is beneficial. In North America, there is no specification calling for NOACK of less than 10%. The most important thing for DI engines is engine design, to better prevent deposits on ITV’s (In Take Valves), since there is no fuel wash as in PFI (Port Fuel Injection) engines. "
So if this is the case would an oil like Redline 5w30 be of benefit?
Jeff
I can only comment on my personal experience which is documented extensively here in these forums...
My previous car was an 2008 Audi A6 3.2 and the valves would gunk up to the extreme every 1,000 miles (yes, every 1,000 miles) that the only recourse I had was having the dealership on a brand new car pulling the headers off and manually scrap the values as best they could then using crushed walnuts to spot clean the rest. By 10,000 miles on a brand new car the dealership, Audi USA, and my patience ran out. No I was not lucky enough to get a new engine, because we found a winning combination that mitigated the problem and kept the car running well enough that I eventually put 100,000 miles on it.
Fuel: Exxon/Mobil or Shell 93 octane
Fuel Additive: Chevron Tektron in every other tank fill.
Oil: Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 (imported from Germany)
BG Valve cleaning system every 10,000 - 15,000 miles.
So you are using Mobil1 ESP 5W30?
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Just would like the forums view on this quote from Penzoil in regards to intake valve deposits and oil and what not.
Oil volatility is not a significant factor for inlet valve deposits in a direct injection gasoline engine. The significant factor is viscosity modifier type and concentration, so using fully synthetic narrow span viscosity grades such as 5W-20 is beneficial. In North America, there is no specification calling for NOACK of less than 10%. The most important thing for DI engines is engine design, to better prevent deposits on ITV’s (In Take Valves), since there is no fuel wash as in PFI (Port Fuel Injection) engines. "
So if this is the case would an oil like Redline 5w30 be of benefit?
Jeff
I can only comment on my personal experience which is documented extensively here in these forums...
My previous car was an 2008 Audi A6 3.2 and the valves would gunk up to the extreme every 1,000 miles (yes, every 1,000 miles) that the only recourse I had was having the dealership on a brand new car pulling the headers off and manually scrap the values as best they could then using crushed walnuts to spot clean the rest. By 10,000 miles on a brand new car the dealership, Audi USA, and my patience ran out. No I was not lucky enough to get a new engine, because we found a winning combination that mitigated the problem and kept the car running well enough that I eventually put 100,000 miles on it.
Fuel: Exxon/Mobil or Shell 93 octane
Fuel Additive: Chevron Tektron in every other tank fill.
Oil: Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 (imported from Germany)
BG Valve cleaning system every 10,000 - 15,000 miles.
So you are using Mobil1 ESP 5W30?
Yes. Of the many oils I tried in trial-n-error, ONLY the Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 delayed my carbon build up the best.
The worst was the default oil: Castrol Syntec 5w-40.
Mobil 1 ESP 5w-40 and 0w-40 differences was not noticeable. I did try other brands as well but they didn't work for my situation neither.
I found that original post for reference: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2444050/1
The worst was the default oil: Castrol Syntec 5w-40.
Mobil 1 ESP 5w-40 and 0w-40 differences was not noticeable. I did try other brands as well but they didn't work for my situation neither.
I found that original post for reference: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2444050/1
Originally Posted By: ikolbyi
Yes. Of the many oils I tried in trial-n-error, ONLY the Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 delayed my carbon build up the best.
The worst was the default oil: Castrol Syntec 5w-40.
Mobil 1 ESP 5w-40 and 0w-40 differences was not noticeable. I did try other brands as well but they didn't work for my situation neither.
I found that original post for reference: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2444050/1
Yeah I am thinking to try that one. I am using GC now in Tiguan, and tried again but did not liked M1 0W40.
I am about to to oil change in Tiguan in about 1.5k. I found online 12ltr M1 ESP for $107.
It is only imported M1, like you said, from Europe.
Only worry for me was whether it can handle not that good gas for 5K, but since you are using it obviously it can.
Yes. Of the many oils I tried in trial-n-error, ONLY the Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 delayed my carbon build up the best.
The worst was the default oil: Castrol Syntec 5w-40.
Mobil 1 ESP 5w-40 and 0w-40 differences was not noticeable. I did try other brands as well but they didn't work for my situation neither.
I found that original post for reference: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2444050/1
Yeah I am thinking to try that one. I am using GC now in Tiguan, and tried again but did not liked M1 0W40.
I am about to to oil change in Tiguan in about 1.5k. I found online 12ltr M1 ESP for $107.
It is only imported M1, like you said, from Europe.
Only worry for me was whether it can handle not that good gas for 5K, but since you are using it obviously it can.
The fuel additive did help in conjunction with the oil. Aside from the excessive carbon build up issue, the only costs I put into the car was breaks and tires. I put the key in and it was 100% reliable. But the excessive valve cleanings was crushing my wallet and I was tired of having to special order oil and adding fuel additives so frequently, so as soon as I hit 100,000 miles I said goodby.
Originally Posted By: ikolbyi
The fuel additive did help in conjunction with the oil. Aside from the excessive carbon build up issue, the only costs I put into the car was breaks and tires. I put the key in and it was 100% reliable. But the excessive valve cleanings was crushing my wallet and I was tired of having to special order oil and adding fuel additives so frequently, so as soon as I hit 100,000 miles I said goodby.
I hold firmly in my belief that an inverse oiler plumbed into a vacuum line will eliminate and of that cash sucking valve cleaning nonsense.
The fuel additive did help in conjunction with the oil. Aside from the excessive carbon build up issue, the only costs I put into the car was breaks and tires. I put the key in and it was 100% reliable. But the excessive valve cleanings was crushing my wallet and I was tired of having to special order oil and adding fuel additives so frequently, so as soon as I hit 100,000 miles I said goodby.
I hold firmly in my belief that an inverse oiler plumbed into a vacuum line will eliminate and of that cash sucking valve cleaning nonsense.
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