LML Duramax Oil Recommendations

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I've been using Redline 15W-40 Oil in my LML since new and was thinking about making a change. I'm not wanting change because I think Redline is not an excellent oil, but more for cost savings. I'm paying $10.15 per quart ($110.00 per change) for the Redline and I would like to use a lesser priced but good Full Synthetic Oil. I'd like to know what other Duramax Owners are using and what type of pricing are you guys getting, plus how do you like what type of oil you're using. The only thing that doesn't make the cost too bad on the Redline is I only have to change oil once per year since I only drive about 6K in that time. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Rotella T or T6 both at Walmart.

I am doing 18K OCI on T6. I posted the 12K UOA awhile ago. The 18K should be done in a week or three.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
quite honestly the weather here is so moderate you could easily use a wall mart supertech 15w40 dino without any worries, I think synthetic is probably overkill

http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/15w-40-premium-diesel-engine-oil-189l/6000109165441

for the price you can't go wrong with this CJ oil


Yeah, I hear you on that point but the reason I like Synthetic is it has much better protection at higher engine temps when it's working hard over some of those hot interior mountain passes in the summer.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Rotella T or T6 both at Walmart.


Isn't T6 a 5W-40? I've often thought about using that weight but have had some reservations as it doesn't get that cold here. I don't think Rotella T is a synthetic, is it?
 
T6 is a 5W40 and synthetic. But remember its "40" in the 5W40 or 15W40 that matters as thats the viscosity at operating temp.

Its in my Cummins and doing fine.

As long as the first number is 15 or less you will be fine.
 
Burbanite -


While others will spout mythology and rhetoric, I offer real world data based upon thousands of UOAs and personal experience.

I can offer two substantial pieces of advise here:

This - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

And this - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3173384#Post3173384


I can say with complete confidence, and the full spectrum of both macro and micro data, that the Dmax won't give a hoot what's in the crankcase as long as it's a properly spec'd HDEO (in your case, CJ-4).

If you are not GREATLY extending your OCIs, then using syns is a total waste, especially in a Dmax. This is not my "opinion" but rather a solid conclusion based upon reams of data available for you and everyone to see. However, as I often say here at work, while I can explain something to you, I cannot understand it for you. If you allow emotion and bias to cloud your vision, then the truth will elude you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "wanting" to run syns; that is an emotional choice. But rational decisions point to there being no "need" to do so.

As you can see, I am preferential to dino 10w-30 HDEO. That is because I like to try "new" things and prove or disprove them. Clearly, I've been successful in showing thinner dino lubes do every bit as well as thicker syns, even during very hard use and extended drains. However, my actuall recommendation is not for any particular brand/grade, because the data shows that it simply does not matter. While you pay $10/qrt, other are paying $10/gallon, and yet they get the exact same results. That is a 4x factor you are paying for, and getting absolutely nothing in return for your money! If you are dilligent, you often find HDEO on sale/rebate for well less than $10/gallon (Peak was $8/gallon off the shelf at AAP this past summer and Delvac 1300 was $7/gallon early this year with rebate). You are at the very high end of costs. You could save a TON of money, and still get the same statistical results. Your engine won't know the difference, but your wallet surely will!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Burbanite -


While others will spout mythology and rhetoric, I offer real world data based upon thousands of UOAs and personal experience.

I can offer two substantial pieces of advise here:

This - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

And this - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3173384#Post3173384


I can say with complete confidence, and the full spectrum of both macro and micro data, that the Dmax won't give a hoot what's in the crankcase as long as it's a properly spec'd HDEO (in your case, CJ-4).

If you are not GREATLY extending your OCIs, then using syns is a total waste, especially in a Dmax. This is not my "opinion" but rather a solid conclusion based upon reams of data available for you and everyone to see. However, as I often say here at work, while I can explain something to you, I cannot understand it for you. If you allow emotion and bias to cloud your vision, then the truth will elude you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "wanting" to run syns; that is an emotional choice. But rational decisions point to there being no "need" to do so.

As you can see, I am preferential to dino 10w-30 HDEO. That is because I like to try "new" things and prove or disprove them. Clearly, I've been successful in showing thinner dino lubes do every bit as well as thicker syns, even during very hard use and extended drains. However, my actuall recommendation is not for any particular brand/grade, because the data shows that it simply does not matter. While you pay $10/qrt, other are paying $10/gallon, and yet they get the exact same results. That is a 4x factor you are paying for, and getting absolutely nothing in return for your money! If you are dilligent, you often find HDEO on sale/rebate for well less than $10/gallon (Peak was $8/gallon off the shelf at AAP this past summer and Delvac 1300 was $7/gallon early this year with rebate). You are at the very high end of costs. You could save a TON of money, and still get the same statistical results. Your engine won't know the difference, but your wallet surely will!






I totally understand what you are saying but I'm still partial to using Synthetic oil, just not such an expensive one which is, as you mentioned "A waste of money" for the amount of mileage I put on this vehicle every year.
I figure I can still use a full Synthetic and cut my Oil bill by more than 50% of what I'm paying now and since I only change my oil once a year, I can live with the cost.
I was thinking of switching to either Delo 400LE Synthetic, Shell Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. All these oils are a 5W-40(CJ-4) and cost about $20.00 per gallon which is a price I can live with.
Delo also makes a CJ-4 5W-30 Synthetic which they say is made for Class 8 vehicles but I'm sure it would work in a Dmax. My only reluctance is switching to a 5W-40 instead of using the recommended 15W-40. It doesn't get that cold here in the winter so I was wondering how the 5W-40 would work on start up in the hotter summer months?
I'm kind of leaning towards the Delo as I've always had good luck with their products but I'm sure the other two I listed are good products as well. I appreciate your input on my so called dilemma(Along with the other peoples posts)as I have great respect when it comes to your input on engine oil related issues.
 
If you have access to a Walmart with good pricing, consider the T5 10w-30 Rotella. Often a bit cheaper than the T6 and you'll get the same results. This product often will satisfy that "itch" of wanting something unique, and will do so with aplomb in performance, for a lower cost.
 
Originally Posted By: Burbanite
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Burbanite -


While others will spout mythology and rhetoric, I offer real world data based upon thousands of UOAs and personal experience.

I can offer two substantial pieces of advise here:

This - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

And this - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3173384#Post3173384


I can say with complete confidence, and the full spectrum of both macro and micro data, that the Dmax won't give a hoot what's in the crankcase as long as it's a properly spec'd HDEO (in your case, CJ-4).

If you are not GREATLY extending your OCIs, then using syns is a total waste, especially in a Dmax. This is not my "opinion" but rather a solid conclusion based upon reams of data available for you and everyone to see. However, as I often say here at work, while I can explain something to you, I cannot understand it for you. If you allow emotion and bias to cloud your vision, then the truth will elude you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "wanting" to run syns; that is an emotional choice. But rational decisions point to there being no "need" to do so.

As you can see, I am preferential to dino 10w-30 HDEO. That is because I like to try "new" things and prove or disprove them. Clearly, I've been successful in showing thinner dino lubes do every bit as well as thicker syns, even during very hard use and extended drains. However, my actuall recommendation is not for any particular brand/grade, because the data shows that it simply does not matter. While you pay $10/qrt, other are paying $10/gallon, and yet they get the exact same results. That is a 4x factor you are paying for, and getting absolutely nothing in return for your money! If you are dilligent, you often find HDEO on sale/rebate for well less than $10/gallon (Peak was $8/gallon off the shelf at AAP this past summer and Delvac 1300 was $7/gallon early this year with rebate). You are at the very high end of costs. You could save a TON of money, and still get the same statistical results. Your engine won't know the difference, but your wallet surely will!






I totally understand what you are saying but I'm still partial to using Synthetic oil, just not such an expensive one which is, as you mentioned "A waste of money" for the amount of mileage I put on this vehicle every year.
I figure I can still use a full Synthetic and cut my Oil bill by more than 50% of what I'm paying now and since I only change my oil once a year, I can live with the cost.
I was thinking of switching to either Delo 400LE Synthetic, Shell Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. All these oils are a 5W-40(CJ-4) and cost about $20.00 per gallon which is a price I can live with.
Delo also makes a CJ-4 5W-30 Synthetic which they say is made for Class 8 vehicles but I'm sure it would work in a Dmax. My only reluctance is switching to a 5W-40 instead of using the recommended 15W-40. It doesn't get that cold here in the winter so I was wondering how the 5W-40 would work on start up in the hotter summer months?
I'm kind of leaning towards the Delo as I've always had good luck with their products but I'm sure the other two I listed are good products as well. I appreciate your input on my so called dilemma(Along with the other peoples posts)as I have great respect when it comes to your input on engine oil related issues.


Op
Your climate isn't brutal so that makes start up viscosity less important(5w vs 15w) so that variable is less important and you can use whatever grade you're comfortable with as long as it meets your spec(cj-4).
You're gaining nothing using a synthetic at your mileage interval but it's your money,spend it how you wish.
I suggest devlac elite 222 0w-30. I believe it meets cj-4,it's synthetic and is a great oil.
Dnewton has extensive data on the duramax so his recommendation is based on acquired data.
Using the devlac I suggested will lower oil temps,warm up quicker,use less fuel and provide fantastic protection on those uphill climbs.
If you're going to stay with a syn I suggest doubling the interval and at least get some value from it,remember synthetics were made for extended intervals and if you read bitog a home page articles you'll learn that extending oil change intervals actually lessen wear rates per mile.
 
Wally World, for some time, has had the Delo synthetic 5w40 at very good pricing, for those set on using a synthetic. I have used it with good results in class 8 diesel engines. Didn't find any major difference between it and the regular Delo 15w40 conventional. That one is usually priced pretty well at Walmart also. Due to pricing and some other considerations, I am now using the 7000 series 15w40 syn blend from Schaeffer in my diesels now.
 
Rotella T6 5W40. And id recommend doing the DPF/EGR deletes if you havent already done it. they just came out with EFI Live for the LML's the sky is the limit when it comes to tuning them and making power!!
 
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
Rotella T6 5W40. And id recommend doing the DPF/EGR deletes if you havent already done it. they just came out with EFI Live for the LML's the sky is the limit when it comes to tuning them and making power!!


Q - DPF, DEF, finally I can remove it all?
A - Not with EFILive, well, not if you live in the USA. All tuning parameters related to DPF, DEF etc will be restricted from modification for USA customers right off the bat, no exceptions.
 
This is what I'm talking about. Members recommending XW30 in other people's Duramax, because they use it.
The owner's manual for 2500 & 3500 LML list 15W40 & 5W40.
Unlike the previous lower power 6.6L Duramax, XW30 is no longer listed.
SAE 10W40 fits between 5W40 and 15W40, but for GM to include that grade, they would need to be specific about which 10W40.

My opinion is that a synthetic CJ-4 10W40 is a good winter choice for locations that do not require 5W cold start protection.
That eliminates lighter 10W40 European fuel economy E6, non-synthetic 10W40 and 10W40 PCMO.
The published HTHS can be your guide.
Duramax engines are designed for HTHS between 3.9 and 4.7, that is why they recommend synthetic CJ-4 5w40 or CJ-4 15w40.
 
I guess it is because xxw30 is now the factory fill for just about every OEM diesel from the little auto ones on up thru 15L HD commercial truck engines, with Detroit DD15 engines getting a 50,000 mile / 1280 hr OCI recommendation on 10w30 conventional for typical OTR use. Cummins ISX even their 600 hp / 2050 lb torque rating gets 10w30 for a factory fill. I don't see what is so special about he Dmax that it has to have a XXw40 oil in it. One has to show that a 30 is not up to performing the task. It tends to be more shear stable in many applications. I find it significantly more shear stable in my HD commercial engines than the typical 40w CJ-4 oils.

But 40 is what everyone has been on for so long and it fits in some folk's comfort zone. It took me a while to consider 30w. Now that I have, and have a number of UOA's to compare results, I am more than comfortable using 30w oils in my diesels now.
 
You cannot connect the dots as you wish, then adjust engine oil viscosity to suit your logical fallacy.
Light truck Diesels are putting out 400 hp @ 3,500 RPM with 6.5 liter engines and 10L oil sumps.
You are comparing that, to a 13L engine producing 550 hp @ 2,200 RPM and a 40L sump?
This has nothing to do with UOA's, history or comfort zones.
There is nothing stopping someone with a 3500 fully loaded pulling a 5 ton trailer,
from going up a mountain pass with their foot on the floor all the way.
Now consider a tuned light truck Diesels @ 550 hp and the same 10L sump.
But this time empty, going up the same mountain pass blowing by everybody @ 100 mph.
Neither examples are "jerking 80,000 lbs", but they are not going up that hill with 10w30.
 
I don't have a Duramax but I love the T6 in my 7.3 Powerstroke. Made a world of difference with cold starts, the clatter is quieter, engine responds better and more smoothly and runs slightly cooler. I ran just regular Rotella T for years with no problems, but the T6 is even better. It costs me about $85 for the oil but will be less for a Durmax since they only hold 10 quarts, where mine holds 15. I get my oil filters for free so figure on adding $10 extra to your bill when you buy.
 
I can squeeze 12 US quarts (11.5L) in my Dmax if I park facing up hill, jack up the front corner and let it drip until the cows come home.

Does Shell and Mobil jointly own Infineum?
 
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