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#3219172 - 12/17/13 05:27 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
dnewton3 Offline



Registered: 05/14/07
Posts: 6816
Loc: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
I love changing my oil. When I drain synthetics at 6k it seems to be a waste. In South Dakota winters I'll put the synthetic oils in to help flow but I'm secretly dying inside because I want to change it after 4k. I secretly enjoy it! Longest I've ever gone on an oil was 7,400 miles. And that was with Mobil 1. I couldn't take it. I had to drain it and put something else in! Still had a strong TBN of 3.7 too.

Anyone else feel like this?

While I'm doing it I hate getting dirty and mucky but man I feel good afterwards. Taking the car for that initial spin after putting an approximate amount in, bringing it back - checking the oil level, adding a bit, then wiping the dipstick off, doing it again and getting it JUST perrrfect.

Can't change my oil in either car right now because I only got 4k on the Castrol and 1k on the Pennzoil. Blah, it's driving me nuts. Best course of action for me is to find those cheap conventionals on clearance or hit up the Havoline $1.99 deals and the Shell Formula $1.99 deals when they pop up!



I am actually impressed!

Here, someone actually simply admits to the addiction of the OCI, rather than try to self-justify the waste (and he fully admits it's waste) with some non-sensical approach to synthetic rhetoric; yada yada yada ...

That in mind, if you enjoy the OCIs, then I recommend the least expensive API qualified lube you can find. 3k-4k mile OCIs are meaningless to most any decent lube. I realize you've not told us much about the operational circumstances, so I presume that to mean your use is typically average. That in mind, any API certified lube will more than suffice. I have run ST dino oil out to 10k and 15k miles in two successive runs, and the wear attributes and cleanliness were fine. At 3-4k miles, you'll still be wasting lube, but at least you'll be minimizing the waste. And you certainly don't need syns for the cold starting, either. Go to the thin end of your allowed grade range and you'll be fine.

Try to find a local farm-supply chain or other house brand outlet; they will often have sales on their own API certified stuff. I often see Rural King oil (Citgo made) for $1.69/qrt on sale!

Havoline or Formula Shell are also excellent and a good buy at those prices. I have run a UOA on FS before and it did every bit as well as other brand-name stuff. Nothing wrong with using brand names, if you get a good deal on them. But their typical normal shelf prices can be too much for any hope of ROI in your described circumstances, versus the alternatives.


Edited by dnewton3 (12/17/13 05:31 AM)
_________________________
Conventionals vs. Synthetics isn't about which is "better"; it's about which lasts longer, while assuring safe operation, in relation to cost. Any product can be over or under utilized. The same applies to filters.
Make an informed decision; first consider your operating conditions, next determine your maintenance plan, and then pick your lube and filter. Don't do it the other way around ...

Top
#3219205 - 12/17/13 07:03 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
wemay Offline


Registered: 04/04/12
Posts: 7239
Loc: Miami, FL
The only reason I have flip flopped on this issue concerning the Hyundai is because of it being a d.i. turbo. So I have decided on a synthetic blend and short oci. This fuel dilution, shearing, deposits stuff seen in most d.i. uoa's has me paranoid. If not for that, I would go 'full' conventional too. I'm also oil OCD.
_________________________
'17 Sonata Sport 2.4L
VSP 5W-20 / XG9688

'13 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T (hers)
VSP w/MLT 5W-30 / XG9688

Top
#3220354 - 12/18/13 08:13 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: yougoJAY]
zerosoma Offline


Registered: 08/12/11
Posts: 2307
Loc: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch thumbsup
_________________________
2004 Hyundai Santa Fe LX 3.5L V6 (138k) [QSGB 10w40]
1995 Honda Accord LX (238k) - the pizza car [Havoline DS 10w40]
2002 Toyota Solara 3.0L V6 (203k)

Top
#3220941 - 12/18/13 06:45 PM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
yougoJAY Offline


Registered: 06/07/13
Posts: 166
Loc: Lenoir, NC
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch thumbsup


I like the 5,000 mile mark for oil changes & also don't feel guilty especially finding quality quarts for 2 or 3 dollars each. Between the 2 cars (even tho they don't accumulate mileage) and a lawn mower & power washer, I can change the oil on SOMETHING!
_________________________
2000 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor Sedan 84,025 Miles
2013 Toyota Yaris L Coupe 17,007 Miles
coffee

Top
#3221146 - 12/18/13 10:28 PM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
The Critic Offline


Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 19208
Loc: Walnut Creek, CA
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...
_________________________
11 Prius, 156K, Eneos 0w20
07 Accord I4, 122K, M1 EP 0w20
10 Altima 3.5, 40k, M1 EP 5w30
92 Previa, 167k, Chevron 5w30

Top
#3221177 - 12/18/13 11:59 PM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: dnewton3]
daves87rs Offline


Registered: 02/23/09
Posts: 16515
Loc: Michigan
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
I love changing my oil. When I drain synthetics at 6k it seems to be a waste. In South Dakota winters I'll put the synthetic oils in to help flow but I'm secretly dying inside because I want to change it after 4k. I secretly enjoy it! Longest I've ever gone on an oil was 7,400 miles. And that was with Mobil 1. I couldn't take it. I had to drain it and put something else in! Still had a strong TBN of 3.7 too.

Anyone else feel like this?

While I'm doing it I hate getting dirty and mucky but man I feel good afterwards. Taking the car for that initial spin after putting an approximate amount in, bringing it back - checking the oil level, adding a bit, then wiping the dipstick off, doing it again and getting it JUST perrrfect.

Can't change my oil in either car right now because I only got 4k on the Castrol and 1k on the Pennzoil. Blah, it's driving me nuts. Best course of action for me is to find those cheap conventionals on clearance or hit up the Havoline $1.99 deals and the Shell Formula $1.99 deals when they pop up!



I am actually impressed!

Here, someone actually simply admits to the addiction of the OCI, rather than try to self-justify the waste (and he fully admits it's waste) with some non-sensical approach to synthetic rhetoric; yada yada yada ...

That in mind, if you enjoy the OCIs, then I recommend the least expensive API qualified lube you can find. 3k-4k mile OCIs are meaningless to most any decent lube. I realize you've not told us much about the operational circumstances, so I presume that to mean your use is typically average. That in mind, any API certified lube will more than suffice. I have run ST dino oil out to 10k and 15k miles in two successive runs, and the wear attributes and cleanliness were fine. At 3-4k miles, you'll still be wasting lube, but at least you'll be minimizing the waste. And you certainly don't need syns for the cold starting, either. Go to the thin end of your allowed grade range and you'll be fine.

Try to find a local farm-supply chain or other house brand outlet; they will often have sales on their own API certified stuff. I often see Rural King oil (Citgo made) for $1.69/qrt on sale!

Havoline or Formula Shell are also excellent and a good buy at those prices. I have run a UOA on FS before and it did every bit as well as other brand-name stuff. Nothing wrong with using brand names, if you get a good deal on them. But their typical normal shelf prices can be too much for any hope of ROI in your described circumstances, versus the alternatives.



Funny you mention that. Like others, this site just gives me the "itch" to change it all the time, and it does feel good to do it. Heck, could even make me feel closer to the car somehow... grin

My problem is that I want the protection of syn...kinda got me hooked. Can no longer justify a syn for it (mileage or otherwise)on my Cav..and I'd like to change 2-3 times a year (which allows me to do all the checking I do at an oil change) which is good or checking on the car.

Could still go the cheapest syn route (house brands), or roll with the pennzoil syn blend...get the best of both worlds at slightly over 16 bucks a jug.

Man, the choices we have here....
_________________________
Whatever you are, be a good one.

Top
#3221182 - 12/19/13 12:08 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: yougoJAY]
zerosoma Offline


Registered: 08/12/11
Posts: 2307
Loc: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch thumbsup


I like the 5,000 mile mark for oil changes & also don't feel guilty especially finding quality quarts for 2 or 3 dollars each. Between the 2 cars (even tho they don't accumulate mileage) and a lawn mower & power washer, I can change the oil on SOMETHING!


Can you believe I've actually considered buying ANOTHER car so I could change the oil on it too? I mean among other cool benefits, but hey...it's another oil change, right?
_________________________
2004 Hyundai Santa Fe LX 3.5L V6 (138k) [QSGB 10w40]
1995 Honda Accord LX (238k) - the pizza car [Havoline DS 10w40]
2002 Toyota Solara 3.0L V6 (203k)

Top
#3221184 - 12/19/13 12:09 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: The Critic]
zerosoma Offline


Registered: 08/12/11
Posts: 2307
Loc: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...




I don't understand.
_________________________
2004 Hyundai Santa Fe LX 3.5L V6 (138k) [QSGB 10w40]
1995 Honda Accord LX (238k) - the pizza car [Havoline DS 10w40]
2002 Toyota Solara 3.0L V6 (203k)

Top
#3221185 - 12/19/13 12:10 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: daves87rs]
zerosoma Offline


Registered: 08/12/11
Posts: 2307
Loc: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted By: daves87rs



Funny you mention that. Like others, this site just gives me the "itch" to change it all the time, and it does feel good to do it. Heck, could even make me feel closer to the car somehow... grin

My problem is that I want the protection of syn...kinda got me hooked. Can no longer justify a syn for it (mileage or otherwise)on my Cav..and I'd like to change 2-3 times a year (which allows me to do all the checking I do at an oil change) which is good or checking on the car.

Could still go the cheapest syn route (house brands), or roll with the pennzoil syn blend...get the best of both worlds at slightly over 16 bucks a jug.

Man, the choices we have here....


I'd go Pennzoil Syn Blend!
_________________________
2004 Hyundai Santa Fe LX 3.5L V6 (138k) [QSGB 10w40]
1995 Honda Accord LX (238k) - the pizza car [Havoline DS 10w40]
2002 Toyota Solara 3.0L V6 (203k)

Top
#3221206 - 12/19/13 12:46 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
The Critic Offline


Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 19208
Loc: Walnut Creek, CA
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...




I don't understand.


My point was -- if you have no issue spending money for the "best" parts for your car, then what's the problem with spending a few extra dollars for the best oil? It is such a small expense compared to the other costs.
_________________________
11 Prius, 156K, Eneos 0w20
07 Accord I4, 122K, M1 EP 0w20
10 Altima 3.5, 40k, M1 EP 5w30
92 Previa, 167k, Chevron 5w30

Top
#3221326 - 12/19/13 07:33 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: The Critic]
zuluplus30 Offline


Registered: 11/23/13
Posts: 305
Loc: USA
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Are we really debating about spending an extra $8 every 5,000 to 7,500 miles?

Do you usually choose the best-in-class option for all of your other automotive purchases?

Do you buy premium tires, OE brakes and OE parts for your repairs?

These are all questions you should be asking yourself when making this decision...




I don't understand.


My point was -- if you have no issue spending money for the "best" parts for your car, then what's the problem with spending a few extra dollars for the best oil? It is such a small expense compared to the other costs.


Your fallacy is using the words "best oil". Best oil for what? That money can buy? For low temp startup protection? For high temp deposit formation? In his application, the realized benefit of a high quality synthetic are nil. Except that it costs more. So why spend the extra money? It's like springing for premium octane when all your car needs is 87. As dnewton3 said, what is the ROI?

Top
#3221393 - 12/19/13 08:37 AM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zuluplus30]
The Critic Offline


Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 19208
Loc: Walnut Creek, CA
Originally Posted By: zuluplus30

Your fallacy is using the words "best oil". Best oil for what? That money can buy? For low temp startup protection? For high temp deposit formation? In his application, the realized benefit of a high quality synthetic are nil. Except that it costs more. So why spend the extra money? It's like springing for premium octane when all your car needs is 87. As dnewton3 said, what is the ROI?

That was my point exactly. In many cases, it is difficult to measure the ROI between a premium and a mid-grade product.

It is a question of risk - am I more likely to develop varnish, deposits and oil consumption from 7500 miles on bulk dino versus 7500 miles on a premium-grade synthetic? Yes. But what are the chances of your engine having an issue? That's the difficult part to measure.
_________________________
11 Prius, 156K, Eneos 0w20
07 Accord I4, 122K, M1 EP 0w20
10 Altima 3.5, 40k, M1 EP 5w30
92 Previa, 167k, Chevron 5w30

Top
#3221605 - 12/19/13 12:19 PM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
RedOakRanch Offline


Registered: 11/10/13
Posts: 727
Loc: Central Coast California
I love to change oil too but I'm doing the one year Amsoil thing now. To make up for the loss of wrench turning I started changing oil for friends and family and work on chainsaws too. I have thought about going cheap on oil so I could change it more but I like Amsoil too much.
_________________________
1994 Ford Crown Vic 202k-Castrol GTX 10w30 since new!
2005 Chevy 1500 Crewcab 4X4 175k-BC 0w30 $2/qt
2016 Outback 2.5 Limited 42k-M1 AFE 0w30 $2/qt

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#3221962 - 12/19/13 06:20 PM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
yougoJAY Offline


Registered: 06/07/13
Posts: 166
Loc: Lenoir, NC
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: yougoJAY
I just went down to the garage and checked the oil on both cars...I feel better now


Haha. Well I'm nearing the 5k mark... I may just have to change the filter and then add some fresh oil to scratch the itch thumbsup


I like the 5,000 mile mark for oil changes & also don't feel guilty especially finding quality quarts for 2 or 3 dollars each. Between the 2 cars (even tho they don't accumulate mileage) and a lawn mower & power washer, I can change the oil on SOMETHING!


Can you believe I've actually considered buying ANOTHER car so I could change the oil on it too? I mean among other cool benefits, but hey...it's another oil change, right?

You only live ONCE!
I had 3 cars for years, 2 Summer drivers & I always got a winter 'beater' while the other 2 sat garaged...Chicago (Northern) winters are (were) terrible on cars..between the salt & freezing/thawing action. I would never drive a new car or mint muscle car in the winter, no way. I need to start changing co-workers oil in the parking lot at work!
_________________________
2000 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor Sedan 84,025 Miles
2013 Toyota Yaris L Coupe 17,007 Miles
coffee

Top
#3222053 - 12/19/13 08:07 PM Re: I may switch to conventional because... [Re: zerosoma]
redtrucker610 Offline


Registered: 06/04/11
Posts: 33
Loc: Tennessee
I can't take reading this thread any longer. I'm going outside to change my oil now!
_________________________
'98 Nissan Frontier XE KC
Spring Hill, TN


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