I reset my battery a few days ago and since then i've been datalogging the car the evap system test is incomplete. The pcm will not run the tests for some reason. I filled up the car yesterday and it ran a few of the evap tests and completed them but there are still a few it won't run so I get the evap incomplete overall. Any ideas?
evap system test incomplete after battery reset
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For the EVAP to run the fuel level usually must be above 1/4 and below 3/4.
Start the car cold and drive it above 35mph for a few miles keeping the throttle as steady as possible.
If that doesn't work there is a exact procedure, post the year,make and model.
Start the car cold and drive it above 35mph for a few miles keeping the throttle as steady as possible.
If that doesn't work there is a exact procedure, post the year,make and model.
Originally Posted By: 98LSC32V
I filled up the car yesterday and it ran a few of the evap tests and completed them but there are still a few it won't run so I get the evap incomplete overall. Any ideas?
As Trav stated, the gas-tank level must be between 1/4 and 3/4 for many of the tests to run.
If you don't have to get the car smogged within the next few weeks, just drive the car normally, letting the tank get below 1/4 before filling, each time; eventually all the tests will run. That's how the EVAP monitors completed in the first place...
I filled up the car yesterday and it ran a few of the evap tests and completed them but there are still a few it won't run so I get the evap incomplete overall. Any ideas?
As Trav stated, the gas-tank level must be between 1/4 and 3/4 for many of the tests to run.
If you don't have to get the car smogged within the next few weeks, just drive the car normally, letting the tank get below 1/4 before filling, each time; eventually all the tests will run. That's how the EVAP monitors completed in the first place...
Yes, I believe the numbers I have are fuel level between 15 and 85%. Minimum engine off time, 6 hours. Intake temp between 40-100F. time since start up 330-2700 seconds. Engine load between 20-70%. Speed between 40-80MPH. Altitude below 8000ft.
Then for vacuum bleed up phase (leak check), engine load change has to be below 20%. Tank pressure change below 1" H2O. Change in fuel level below 15%. If any of those fail fuel slosh is expected/occuring so it aborts that phase then tries again up to 20 times.
Those are Ford numbers for '04MY, others will vary but it gives an idea of what it is looking for.
Then for vacuum bleed up phase (leak check), engine load change has to be below 20%. Tank pressure change below 1" H2O. Change in fuel level below 15%. If any of those fail fuel slosh is expected/occuring so it aborts that phase then tries again up to 20 times.
Those are Ford numbers for '04MY, others will vary but it gives an idea of what it is looking for.
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Unless you need to get it smogged soon, drive it. It'll run most of those tests by itself when the conditions are right.
It depends on the model year of the car, whether it's even an issue. IIRC 1999 and earlier can have 2 evap system tests undone, and anything newer than 1999 can have 1 test undone and still pass an emissions check. Well, if everything else passed successfully. That's straight from the EPA, so it should "in theory" be the law of the land, even in California.
It depends on the model year of the car, whether it's even an issue. IIRC 1999 and earlier can have 2 evap system tests undone, and anything newer than 1999 can have 1 test undone and still pass an emissions check. Well, if everything else passed successfully. That's straight from the EPA, so it should "in theory" be the law of the land, even in California.
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
even in California.
Yup. Been there with that. I know Fords can be areal problem to get them to self test. Usually a few hundred highway miles will get them to do it.
even in California.
Yup. Been there with that. I know Fords can be areal problem to get them to self test. Usually a few hundred highway miles will get them to do it.
Is this the '05 Goat, or some other car?
Originally Posted By: Trav
For the EVAP to run the fuel level usually must be above 1/4 and below 3/4.
Start the car cold and drive it above 35mph for a few miles keeping the throttle as steady as possible.
If that doesn't work there is a exact procedure, post the year,make and model.
Hit the nail on the head.
For the EVAP to run the fuel level usually must be above 1/4 and below 3/4.
Start the car cold and drive it above 35mph for a few miles keeping the throttle as steady as possible.
If that doesn't work there is a exact procedure, post the year,make and model.
Hit the nail on the head.
Anybody has the enable criteria for running EVAP Monitor test on 99 Honda Odyssey? I just completed the EGR passage cleaning. I used to get P0401 every second drive cycle. I am not getting that code anymore after cleaning the EGR passage and the PCV valve and tube. However, after three drive cycles, the EVAP Monitor is still listed as incomplete. If my memory serves me right, this van used to go through all the monitors within one or two drive cycles.
To the best of my knowledge, I put back everything correctly including couple of EVAP hoses in to the intake tube etc. The car drives normally. I am just anxious before I can call my EGR passage cleaning a complete success until I get a clean I/M report on my scanner.
The gas level is between 3/4 and 1/2 And I have taken it on highway, once for quick test of 3+3 mile round trip and another 30 miles to dinner party and return back of 30 miles.
To the best of my knowledge, I put back everything correctly including couple of EVAP hoses in to the intake tube etc. The car drives normally. I am just anxious before I can call my EGR passage cleaning a complete success until I get a clean I/M report on my scanner.
The gas level is between 3/4 and 1/2 And I have taken it on highway, once for quick test of 3+3 mile round trip and another 30 miles to dinner party and return back of 30 miles.
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I believe grounding pin 9 of the DLC with the ignition on will activate SCS mode and allow the EVAP monitor to run in one trip instead of two. In SCS mode, just start the engine, verify that the fuel level isn't to high or low, and drive around for a few minutes. Highway speed isn't necessary. Hopefully someone can confirm or refute this.
Don't do it until you confirm with someone else. I'm just going from memory and if pin 9 is the wrong one that could cause a blown fuse or something.
Don't do it until you confirm with someone else. I'm just going from memory and if pin 9 is the wrong one that could cause a blown fuse or something.
Setting (of failing with a DTC) in one trip is easier that doing it twice. That said, whether you do one trip or two, just do what people have already told you and you may already have done:
Have a fuel level that's not too full or too empty. Start the engine from fully cold. Drive around some.
If it gives you a hard time:
-Make sure the weather is reasonable. Extreme temperatures can prevent the monitor running. Adjust weather as necessary.
-Check for pending codes. Pending codes (even if not related) can stop a monitor from running.
-Turn off the AC.
-Check your driving style. Hang a pendulum from the rearview mirror. If it swings fore and aft as you drive down the road, you might be an old Jewish woman. Dampen that foot motion. This may also cure neck pain.
Have a fuel level that's not too full or too empty. Start the engine from fully cold. Drive around some.
If it gives you a hard time:
-Make sure the weather is reasonable. Extreme temperatures can prevent the monitor running. Adjust weather as necessary.
-Check for pending codes. Pending codes (even if not related) can stop a monitor from running.
-Turn off the AC.
-Check your driving style. Hang a pendulum from the rearview mirror. If it swings fore and aft as you drive down the road, you might be an old Jewish woman. Dampen that foot motion. This may also cure neck pain.
Im at over 600 miles in my suzuki esteem 2000. any ideas? my battery was reset cuz the fuel cap was off for a day and the light came on. but now i cant get evap to complete after over 600 miles, it keeps saying incomplete. ive done some highway maybe 100, and a lot of city miles
and i've had the tank between 1/4 and 3/4 the whole time
and i've had the tank between 1/4 and 3/4 the whole time
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