Hope not canister filters suck .I have had enough experience with them to know.
Maybe some of them do, but the only problem with the one on my Ecotech is the exorbitant price for the element, which is sure to come down before long. I actually think it is easier and cleaner. Think of all the problems we see posted here with the spin ons.quote:
Originally posted by Steve S:
Hope not canister filters suck .I have had enough experience with them to know.
BMW's had them for over 10yrs nowquote:
Originally posted by labman:
... It is time the other manufacturers catch up to GM engineering and make them usable.
Yes, but are they ones that suck?quote:
Originally posted by Jason Troxell:
BMW's had them for over 10yrs nowquote:
Originally posted by labman:
... It is time the other manufacturers catch up to GM engineering and make them usable.
Labman,quote:
With their less waste of materials (costs) and ready inspection of the filter element, I am sure they are the wave of the future. It is time the other manufacturers catch up to GM engineering and make them usable.
Like I said, an easy to use canister isn't rocket science, but more wanting to do it.quote:
Originally posted by Shannow:
My new Nissan Diesel has a canister also.
canister accepts a 1/2" drive. Unscrew 4 turns, and this aligns a port in the canister and block, releasing the residual oil into an escape pipe that drains to near the sump plug.
Leave sit for 10 minutes, and it's pretty well mess free.
quote:
Originally posted by Brian Barnhart:
I’ve not seen one of these “new” canister filters…
Go to Wally's and look in a PH 9018 box.
Do they have anti-drainback valves?
No, most GM engines don't need them having that function built in elsewhere.
Can they be prefilled?
No, there is a 1 1/8'' hole clear through the center. I assume if you poured oil in on top, it would run down to the crank case.
Does the cover/gasket/O-ring need periodic replacement?
Maybe eventually. Mine is doing fine after 7 oil changes. The O-ring on my less well designed home water filter has survived hundreds of changes. I have suggested being careful when you tighten the PLASTIC cover in several posts.
How easy is clean up of the canister?
Maybe wipe it off a little before and after removing the cap.
Are they more susceptible to handling/shipping damage?
Yes. The media and the plastic end caps have nothing to protect them except the pasteboard box. Drop it and step on it, and you would crush it.
Is it easy to keep the element clean during a change?
Drop it on a dirty floor and your media hits whatever is there. It is human nature to screw up the easiest job. A dropped spin on will land baseplate down in the dirtiest place in your garage. At least the outside of the element is the unfiltered oil side.
I am a little uncomfortable about the big empty space the element occupies when you remove the cover. Not having the housing filled with oil makes for a neat filter change, but what about start up? I have not had any problems with noise on start up or the oil light staying on. I have used mostly the Purflux filter and an STP and Purolator. I have a high pleat count WIX to try next. I am using the factory recommended 5W-30. (Pennzoil dino)
Over all, I think it beats some of the poorly designed spin ons, and the price of elements surely will come down before too long. Somebody is making big bucks off the Fram Wally's sells for $8.
I know of no GM engines that have built in ADB valves. Could you be confusing this with the the oil filter bypass valves built into GM engines? Perhaps GM has configured/oriented the canister system such that an ADBV is not needed.quote:
Q: Do they have anti-drainback valves?
A: No, most GM engines don't need them having that function built in elsewhere.
Perhaps, but the volumes are no doubt still quite low and Fram may have a sizable tooling bill to pay off. If GM continues to use this system, the volume will increase and other filter manufacturers will likely tool up to produce the filters. Those two would likely combine to drive down the price.quote:
Somebody is making big bucks off the Fram Wally's sells for $8.
My answers are based on my BMW, where the filter is on top of the engine. The old Chevy V-8's that most people remember had the filter under the engine, making for a big mess. I own a '57 Chevy with a 283 and the "optional" oil filter. A block-off plate was standard back then.quote:
Originally posted by Brian Barnhart:
I?ve not seen one of these ?new? canister filters?
Do they have anti-drainback valves?
Anti-drainback is inherent in the design.
Can they be prefilled?
No
Does the cover/gasket/O-ring need periodic replacement?
Yes, but it is easy and incuded with the element.
How easy is clean up of the canister?
I find the whole operation cleaner than spin-ons.
Are they more susceptible to handling/shipping damage?
A little.
Is it easy to keep the element clean during a change?
Yes.
You are right on the ADBV. I was thinking of the bypass.quote:
Originally posted by Brian Barnhart:
I know of no GM engines that have built in ADB valves. Could you be confusing this with the the oil filter bypass valves built into GM engines? Perhaps GM has configured/oriented the canister system such that an ADBV is not needed.quote:
Q: Do they have anti-drainback valves?
A: No, most GM engines don't need them having that function built in elsewhere.
Perhaps, but the volumes are no doubt still quite low and Fram may have a sizable tooling bill to pay off. If GM continues to use this system, the volume will increase and other filter manufacturers will likely tool up to produce the filters. Those two would likely combine to drive down the price.quote:
Somebody is making big bucks off the Fram Wally's sells for $8.