Should I use Maxlife?

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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: jfking106
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Sorry, but ML has helped many by cleaning ring packs and thus helping with oil burn. It is one of its premier features.

A terrific product.


Good oil, no doubt, but like I said, Ive never seen an oil that will free stuck rings.


I have.

I will add my sincere condolences. But I am sure you understand that just because you have not witnessed it personally it could still happen!
+1. It "happened" when I installed MSHM 5w-30 in my Accord. No more burning.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: jfking106
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Sorry, but ML has helped many by cleaning ring packs and thus helping with oil burn. It is one of its premier features.

A terrific product.


Good oil, no doubt, but like I said, Ive never seen an oil that will free stuck rings.


I have.

I will add my sincere condolences. But I am sure you understand that just because you have not witnessed it personally it could still happen!


Glad it worked for you. Unfortunately, it hasn't for me. It did stop external seal and gasket leaks, though.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: jfking106
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Sorry, but ML has helped many by cleaning ring packs and thus helping with oil burn. It is one of its premier features.

A terrific product.


Good oil, no doubt, but like I said, Ive never seen an oil that will free stuck rings.


I have.

I will add my sincere condolences. But I am sure you understand that just because you have not witnessed it personally it could still happen!
+1. It "happened" when I installed MSHM 5w-30 in my Accord. No more burning.


Glad it worked. You are aware, though, that most high mileage oils are of higher viscosity than their normal counterparts, right?
 
Not anymore, it's pretty much 50/50. You have to know which ones are "thick" because a lot of HM oils have gone for "thin is in". Maxlife, Castrol and Mobil Super for example.

Defy, M1 HM and Pennzoil are still thick for grade though.
 
I'm a big fan of Maxlife. It doesn't get a lot of play for cleaning around here, but it has as stout a detergent/dispersent add pack as Ultra does at around 2,600 ppm.

That's considerably more than PYB and even many HDEO's. Valvoline just doesn't push that very hard in their marketing like Pennzoil for example tends to do.
 
I will "Probably" put Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 in my parents 2001 Jeep Cherokees 125,000 mile 4.0(When it gets to 125,000 which should be in the next week or so). That 4.0 just Loves MaxLife 10w-30. But,...Im Also tempted to install a New rear main seal in that 4.0(JeepOutpost has Crown rear main seals for $8.56 !) and then put a HIGH Quality European Synthetic like Motul 300V 0w-40 or maby LiquiMolys LeichtLauf 0w-40. That would be the Best way to go, I think. Today.
 
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Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
That would be the Best way to go, I think. Today.


crackmeup2.gif
 
No.

Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Doesnt it "condition" those seals by "destroying" them?

I think that may be why so many dont use High Mileage oils...

Or, just a Group II like Castrol GTX? .. Does that help?
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
...In addition, with vehicles driven more often than a summer car, I'd expect to see results of HM oils much sooner than my particular 4 years. Several OCI(or a years worth) would be normal IMHO!
Thanks for mentioning this.
smile.gif


The Camry in the sig block is on its first fill of MaxLife (at least the first in the last 6 years that I've owned it). It's been in there for 10k miles and 9 months. In that time, I've added 5 quarts total as top-up. During the first 3 months, some of that 5 quart loss was due to oil leaking from 2 places (i.e. top end and bottom end). The top end leak was then patched and PCV was prematurely replaced as a proactive measure (i.e. prior valve appeared fully operational). During the next 4 months, some of that 5 quart loss was due to oil leaking from 1 place (i.e. bottom end: crankshaft seal). The bottom end leak was then patched. There have been no externally visible leaks for the last 2 months; however, I'm still observing loss at the rate of approximately 1 quart per 2k miles (extrapolated based on a 1k-mile sample).

While I didn't keep meticulous records of the pre-repair rate of loss for comparison to the post-repair rate of loss, I've concluded that patching those leaks doesn't appear to have helped much at all.
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I assume the current loss to be entirely internal consumption in the absence of any visible external leak.

Informed opinions please: Does anyone think I'd see a faster reduction in loss if I drain and fill it again with the same MaxLife now vs. just continuing to top-up and running the current fill another 4k miles before doing an actual OC with the same MaxLife?
smile.gif
 
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