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LML Duramax Oil Recommendations #3173047
10/30/13 06:58 PM
10/30/13 06:58 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Burbanite Offline OP
Burbanite  Offline OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
I've been using Redline 15W-40 Oil in my LML since new and was thinking about making a change. I'm not wanting change because I think Redline is not an excellent oil, but more for cost savings. I'm paying $10.15 per quart ($110.00 per change) for the Redline and I would like to use a lesser priced but good Full Synthetic Oil. I'd like to know what other Duramax Owners are using and what type of pricing are you guys getting, plus how do you like what type of oil you're using. The only thing that doesn't make the cost too bad on the Redline is I only have to change oil once per year since I only drive about 6K in that time. Any info would be appreciated.

Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173079
10/30/13 07:26 PM
10/30/13 07:26 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 511
maple ridge, bc
2004tdigls Online content
2004tdigls  Online Content
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 511
maple ridge, bc
quite honestly the weather here is so moderate you could easily use a wall mart supertech 15w40 dino without any worries, I think synthetic is probably overkill

http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/15w-40-premium-diesel-engine-oil-189l/6000109165441

for the price you can't go wrong with this CJ oil

Last edited by 2004tdigls; 10/30/13 07:26 PM.
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173095
10/30/13 07:35 PM
10/30/13 07:35 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 21,089
Upstate NY
Donald Offline
Donald  Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 21,089
Upstate NY
Rotella T or T6 both at Walmart.

I am doing 18K OCI on T6. I posted the 12K UOA awhile ago. The 18K should be done in a week or three.

Last edited by Donald; 10/30/13 07:40 PM.

2015 Subaru Forester 2.5 engine/CVT
2015 Ford F250 w/Powerstroke
2016 Subaru Crosstrek CVT (wife's)
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: 2004tdigls] #3173099
10/30/13 07:37 PM
10/30/13 07:37 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Burbanite Offline OP
Burbanite  Offline OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
quite honestly the weather here is so moderate you could easily use a wall mart supertech 15w40 dino without any worries, I think synthetic is probably overkill

http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/15w-40-premium-diesel-engine-oil-189l/6000109165441

for the price you can't go wrong with this CJ oil


Yeah, I hear you on that point but the reason I like Synthetic is it has much better protection at higher engine temps when it's working hard over some of those hot interior mountain passes in the summer.

Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Donald] #3173110
10/30/13 07:43 PM
10/30/13 07:43 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Burbanite Offline OP
Burbanite  Offline OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted By: Donald
Rotella T or T6 both at Walmart.


Isn't T6 a 5W-40? I've often thought about using that weight but have had some reservations as it doesn't get that cold here. I don't think Rotella T is a synthetic, is it?

Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173160
10/30/13 08:11 PM
10/30/13 08:11 PM
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 426
Youngstown, OH
GutsyGecko Offline
GutsyGecko  Offline
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 426
Youngstown, OH
T6 is great oil. Either that or M1 TDT.

Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173176
10/30/13 08:21 PM
10/30/13 08:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 21,089
Upstate NY
Donald Offline
Donald  Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 21,089
Upstate NY
T6 is a 5W40 and synthetic. But remember its "40" in the 5W40 or 15W40 that matters as thats the viscosity at operating temp.

Its in my Cummins and doing fine.

As long as the first number is 15 or less you will be fine.


2015 Subaru Forester 2.5 engine/CVT
2015 Ford F250 w/Powerstroke
2016 Subaru Crosstrek CVT (wife's)
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173386
10/31/13 03:41 AM
10/31/13 03:41 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7,614
Indianapolis, IN
dnewton3 Offline
dnewton3  Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7,614
Indianapolis, IN
Burbanite -


While others will spout mythology and rhetoric, I offer real world data based upon thousands of UOAs and personal experience.

I can offer two substantial pieces of advise here:

This - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

And this - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3173384#Post3173384


I can say with complete confidence, and the full spectrum of both macro and micro data, that the Dmax won't give a hoot what's in the crankcase as long as it's a properly spec'd HDEO (in your case, CJ-4).

If you are not GREATLY extending your OCIs, then using syns is a total waste, especially in a Dmax. This is not my "opinion" but rather a solid conclusion based upon reams of data available for you and everyone to see. However, as I often say here at work, while I can explain something to you, I cannot understand it for you. If you allow emotion and bias to cloud your vision, then the truth will elude you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "wanting" to run syns; that is an emotional choice. But rational decisions point to there being no "need" to do so.

As you can see, I am preferential to dino 10w-30 HDEO. That is because I like to try "new" things and prove or disprove them. Clearly, I've been successful in showing thinner dino lubes do every bit as well as thicker syns, even during very hard use and extended drains. However, my actuall recommendation is not for any particular brand/grade, because the data shows that it simply does not matter. While you pay $10/qrt, other are paying $10/gallon, and yet they get the exact same results. That is a 4x factor you are paying for, and getting absolutely nothing in return for your money! If you are dilligent, you often find HDEO on sale/rebate for well less than $10/gallon (Peak was $8/gallon off the shelf at AAP this past summer and Delvac 1300 was $7/gallon early this year with rebate). You are at the very high end of costs. You could save a TON of money, and still get the same statistical results. Your engine won't know the difference, but your wallet surely will!





Last edited by dnewton3; 10/31/13 03:48 AM.

The act of preventative maintenance, in and of itself, is FAR MORE important than brand/grade/base choices among lubes and filters.
- under maintaining something is akin to abuse/neglect; that can kill equipment by shortening the lifespan
- over maintaining something has never been proven to be anything but a waste of time and money
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: dnewton3] #3173689
10/31/13 09:43 AM
10/31/13 09:43 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Burbanite Offline OP
Burbanite  Offline OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 138
North Vancouver BC
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Burbanite -


While others will spout mythology and rhetoric, I offer real world data based upon thousands of UOAs and personal experience.

I can offer two substantial pieces of advise here:

This - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

And this - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3173384#Post3173384


I can say with complete confidence, and the full spectrum of both macro and micro data, that the Dmax won't give a hoot what's in the crankcase as long as it's a properly spec'd HDEO (in your case, CJ-4).

If you are not GREATLY extending your OCIs, then using syns is a total waste, especially in a Dmax. This is not my "opinion" but rather a solid conclusion based upon reams of data available for you and everyone to see. However, as I often say here at work, while I can explain something to you, I cannot understand it for you. If you allow emotion and bias to cloud your vision, then the truth will elude you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "wanting" to run syns; that is an emotional choice. But rational decisions point to there being no "need" to do so.

As you can see, I am preferential to dino 10w-30 HDEO. That is because I like to try "new" things and prove or disprove them. Clearly, I've been successful in showing thinner dino lubes do every bit as well as thicker syns, even during very hard use and extended drains. However, my actuall recommendation is not for any particular brand/grade, because the data shows that it simply does not matter. While you pay $10/qrt, other are paying $10/gallon, and yet they get the exact same results. That is a 4x factor you are paying for, and getting absolutely nothing in return for your money! If you are dilligent, you often find HDEO on sale/rebate for well less than $10/gallon (Peak was $8/gallon off the shelf at AAP this past summer and Delvac 1300 was $7/gallon early this year with rebate). You are at the very high end of costs. You could save a TON of money, and still get the same statistical results. Your engine won't know the difference, but your wallet surely will!






I totally understand what you are saying but I'm still partial to using Synthetic oil, just not such an expensive one which is, as you mentioned "A waste of money" for the amount of mileage I put on this vehicle every year.
I figure I can still use a full Synthetic and cut my Oil bill by more than 50% of what I'm paying now and since I only change my oil once a year, I can live with the cost.
I was thinking of switching to either Delo 400LE Synthetic, Shell Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. All these oils are a 5W-40(CJ-4) and cost about $20.00 per gallon which is a price I can live with.
Delo also makes a CJ-4 5W-30 Synthetic which they say is made for Class 8 vehicles but I'm sure it would work in a Dmax. My only reluctance is switching to a 5W-40 instead of using the recommended 15W-40. It doesn't get that cold here in the winter so I was wondering how the 5W-40 would work on start up in the hotter summer months?
I'm kind of leaning towards the Delo as I've always had good luck with their products but I'm sure the other two I listed are good products as well. I appreciate your input on my so called dilemma(Along with the other peoples posts)as I have great respect when it comes to your input on engine oil related issues.

Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173716
10/31/13 10:01 AM
10/31/13 10:01 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7,614
Indianapolis, IN
dnewton3 Offline
dnewton3  Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7,614
Indianapolis, IN
If you have access to a Walmart with good pricing, consider the T5 10w-30 Rotella. Often a bit cheaper than the T6 and you'll get the same results. This product often will satisfy that "itch" of wanting something unique, and will do so with aplomb in performance, for a lower cost.


The act of preventative maintenance, in and of itself, is FAR MORE important than brand/grade/base choices among lubes and filters.
- under maintaining something is akin to abuse/neglect; that can kill equipment by shortening the lifespan
- over maintaining something has never been proven to be anything but a waste of time and money
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3173720
10/31/13 10:06 AM
10/31/13 10:06 AM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 9,783
Saskatoon canada
Clevy Offline
Clevy  Offline
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 9,783
Saskatoon canada
Originally Posted By: Burbanite
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Burbanite -


While others will spout mythology and rhetoric, I offer real world data based upon thousands of UOAs and personal experience.

I can offer two substantial pieces of advise here:

This - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

And this - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3173384#Post3173384


I can say with complete confidence, and the full spectrum of both macro and micro data, that the Dmax won't give a hoot what's in the crankcase as long as it's a properly spec'd HDEO (in your case, CJ-4).

If you are not GREATLY extending your OCIs, then using syns is a total waste, especially in a Dmax. This is not my "opinion" but rather a solid conclusion based upon reams of data available for you and everyone to see. However, as I often say here at work, while I can explain something to you, I cannot understand it for you. If you allow emotion and bias to cloud your vision, then the truth will elude you.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "wanting" to run syns; that is an emotional choice. But rational decisions point to there being no "need" to do so.

As you can see, I am preferential to dino 10w-30 HDEO. That is because I like to try "new" things and prove or disprove them. Clearly, I've been successful in showing thinner dino lubes do every bit as well as thicker syns, even during very hard use and extended drains. However, my actuall recommendation is not for any particular brand/grade, because the data shows that it simply does not matter. While you pay $10/qrt, other are paying $10/gallon, and yet they get the exact same results. That is a 4x factor you are paying for, and getting absolutely nothing in return for your money! If you are dilligent, you often find HDEO on sale/rebate for well less than $10/gallon (Peak was $8/gallon off the shelf at AAP this past summer and Delvac 1300 was $7/gallon early this year with rebate). You are at the very high end of costs. You could save a TON of money, and still get the same statistical results. Your engine won't know the difference, but your wallet surely will!






I totally understand what you are saying but I'm still partial to using Synthetic oil, just not such an expensive one which is, as you mentioned "A waste of money" for the amount of mileage I put on this vehicle every year.
I figure I can still use a full Synthetic and cut my Oil bill by more than 50% of what I'm paying now and since I only change my oil once a year, I can live with the cost.
I was thinking of switching to either Delo 400LE Synthetic, Shell Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. All these oils are a 5W-40(CJ-4) and cost about $20.00 per gallon which is a price I can live with.
Delo also makes a CJ-4 5W-30 Synthetic which they say is made for Class 8 vehicles but I'm sure it would work in a Dmax. My only reluctance is switching to a 5W-40 instead of using the recommended 15W-40. It doesn't get that cold here in the winter so I was wondering how the 5W-40 would work on start up in the hotter summer months?
I'm kind of leaning towards the Delo as I've always had good luck with their products but I'm sure the other two I listed are good products as well. I appreciate your input on my so called dilemma(Along with the other peoples posts)as I have great respect when it comes to your input on engine oil related issues.


Op
Your climate isn't brutal so that makes start up viscosity less important(5w vs 15w) so that variable is less important and you can use whatever grade you're comfortable with as long as it meets your spec(cj-4).
You're gaining nothing using a synthetic at your mileage interval but it's your money,spend it how you wish.
I suggest devlac elite 222 0w-30. I believe it meets cj-4,it's synthetic and is a great oil.
Dnewton has extensive data on the duramax so his recommendation is based on acquired data.
Using the devlac I suggested will lower oil temps,warm up quicker,use less fuel and provide fantastic protection on those uphill climbs.
If you're going to stay with a syn I suggest doubling the interval and at least get some value from it,remember synthetics were made for extended intervals and if you read bitog a home page articles you'll learn that extending oil change intervals actually lessen wear rates per mile.


2006 Charger RT
Miles x 2 per oil filter
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3199279
11/27/13 12:21 AM
11/27/13 12:21 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,325
Central Iowa
TiredTrucker Offline
TiredTrucker  Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,325
Central Iowa
Wally World, for some time, has had the Delo synthetic 5w40 at very good pricing, for those set on using a synthetic. I have used it with good results in class 8 diesel engines. Didn't find any major difference between it and the regular Delo 15w40 conventional. That one is usually priced pretty well at Walmart also. Due to pricing and some other considerations, I am now using the 7000 series 15w40 syn blend from Schaeffer in my diesels now.


Freedom is not about having the choice to do what you want, but the choice to do what you ought.
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Burbanite] #3200211
11/27/13 11:14 PM
11/27/13 11:14 PM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,260
Golden Meadow, LA
mobilaltima Offline
mobilaltima  Offline
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,260
Golden Meadow, LA
Rotella T6 5W40. And id recommend doing the DPF/EGR deletes if you havent already done it. they just came out with EFI Live for the LML's the sky is the limit when it comes to tuning them and making power!!


2006 2500 Dodge 5.9 Cummins Mobil Delvac 15W40, Fleetguard Stratapore 90k miles
Early '99 F250 ECLB 7.3 Stroker, 223k miles
Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: mobilaltima] #3222689
12/20/13 01:08 PM
12/20/13 01:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 21
MS
Black6spdZ Offline
Black6spdZ  Offline
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 21
MS
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
Rotella T6 5W40. And id recommend doing the DPF/EGR deletes if you havent already done it. they just came out with EFI Live for the LML's the sky is the limit when it comes to tuning them and making power!!


Q - DPF, DEF, finally I can remove it all?
A - Not with EFILive, well, not if you live in the USA. All tuning parameters related to DPF, DEF etc will be restricted from modification for USA customers right off the bat, no exceptions.

Re: LML Duramax Oil Recommendations [Re: Black6spdZ] #3222815
12/20/13 03:52 PM
12/20/13 03:52 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 298
Idaho
BoiseRob Online content
BoiseRob  Online Content
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 298
Idaho
EFILive now can tune the LML Duramax...

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