Atlas tire changers

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Anybody here have any experience with them? Considering buying one for personal use mostly, and to mount some rims for some friends cheap. I figure eventually, it'll pay for itself, while giving me the peace of mind of not having kids scratching up my wheels.
 
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
No experience here how much are they?

I see about a grand, on eBay. Minimum. And that's just for the changer, not the balancer.

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
mount and balance is typically $20 a tire around here.

Assuming you got the equipment for $1,000, you'd need to do about a dozen tire changes and balances in order to break even on the expenditure. Minimum.

Looks as though price would not be the reason you'd be doing your own mounting and balancing.
 
You could get your feet wet with a $40 manual changer... can make plastic buffers from soda bottles to keep scratches down. At least do steel rims for the practice.

Or get a part time job at a tire store for a while, let them train you, check out their equipment. And you can practice on someone else's wheels.
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
You could get your feet wet with a $40 manual changer... can make plastic buffers from soda bottles to keep scratches down. At least do steel rims for the practice.

Or get a part time job at a tire store for a while, let them train you, check out their equipment. And you can practice on someone else's wheels.
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I don't need training....ASE certified tech here, have changed plenty of tires in my meager 30 years. I just hate paying shops for it (don't work in the field anymore). And as I said, I could mount stuff for friends on occasion too, especially all the drift kids around who're running free tires anyways. Mount them for like $5/each, or they can give me $20 and mount 6-8 themselves.


And definitely NOT buying anything 'manual'. I'll buy a real tire changer, thanks. As stated, and you guys missed the point, cost wasn't part of the equation. I asked if anybody knew the quality. Greg Smith Equipment sells them too, and they have a local warehouse/showroom.
 
I have used a manual setup for years.Even on aluminum rims.After enough use the end of the tool wears and softens,rounding any sharp edges.Seemingly enough to prevent damage.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
I have used a manual setup for years.Even on aluminum rims.After enough use the end of the tool wears and softens,rounding any sharp edges.Seemingly enough to prevent damage.


+1

However, mounting is where the damage occurs, (I hammer mine on). While I'm not too worried about steel rims, I am hesitant to work with aluminum for fear of breaking the rims if I happen to strike the rim with the hammer, (i.e. miss the bead and hit the rim).

Have you thought of looking for a used set up? Possibly Craigslist or a shop going out of business?

As far as balancing is concerned, I have a bubble balancer I picked up at Harbor Freight that works great - if I recall, I think I paid around 30 bucks for it and it has paid for itself years ago and still works great.
 
Originally Posted By: KenO
......I don't need training....ASE certified tech here, have changed plenty of tires in my meager 30 years......


I hope KenO will understand I am not picking on him, but he brought up a subject near and dear to my heart.

I have yet to see ANYONE mount tires 100% correctly. The most frequent mistake is forgetting to lube the rim flange - which where most of the mounting damage occurs.

I've had people claim that bead damage can be caused in dismounting - even after I showed them how it occurs during the mounting process.

So I think EVERONE could use a bit of training on mounting tires.

/end rant
 
Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
Originally Posted By: KenO
......I don't need training....ASE certified tech here, have changed plenty of tires in my meager 30 years......


I hope KenO will understand I am not picking on him, but he brought up a subject near and dear to my heart.

I have yet to see ANYONE mount tires 100% correctly. The most frequent mistake is forgetting to lube the rim flange - which where most of the mounting damage occurs.

I've had people claim that bead damage can be caused in dismounting - even after I showed them how it occurs during the mounting process.

So I think EVERONE could use a bit of training on mounting tires.

/end rant



Who doesn't use lube? Without it, it's super easy to tear the rubber on the bead, and damage the bead further. And yes, bead damage can occur during dismount too if you don't fully get the opposite side of the bead into the drop center of the rim. Once the tire starts to come off, its going to come off, the machine usually has plenty of torque to turn that wheel/tire to destruction if you're dumb.
 
When I had my "big" car shop, I had a tire changer (the red brand - can't recall the name) and a spin balancer (Hunter?) and I used them a lot.

I got mine from a Chevy dealer that went out of business, and that's what I'd look around for - a going out of business or an upgrade sale.

I hated to see mine go, but in my little "shop" I needed the room for car storage.
 
I have a Atlas TC221. I use it mainly to change motorcycle tires but have done a few car tires too. Probably changed 100+ tires so far with no issues.

If you have any specific questions, I can try to answer them.
 
Originally Posted By: getbent
I have a Atlas TC221. I use it mainly to change motorcycle tires but have done a few car tires too. Probably changed 100+ tires so far with no issues.

If you have any specific questions, I can try to answer them.



Nice! Does the 221 have the beat seater, or is that only the next model up? The website is pretty lacking re: options.
 
Tearing a bead or scratching a wheel is never a good thing. I don't worry too much about a scrap tire coming off, but on a new one watch out. Like Capriracer said lubing the rim flange is good. Just as effective I will lube the back side of the top bead while doing the backside and the wheel and even the mounting head, anything to reduce the friction. Also, stop the rotation when mounting the top bead on the last quarter of rotation and watch the bead. It will start to fold over a little, but going wide open it is easy to bunch up and tear. 30 series runflats on a deep drop center wheel on a BMW are the worst. Even have to lube the sidewall. By the way I use a rim clamp machine on the easy ones, and a Corghi Artiglio Master tire machine on the tough ones. The only machine I've seen that does not touch the wheel.
 
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Originally Posted By: KenO
I figure eventually, it'll pay for itself, while giving me the peace of mind of not having kids scratching up my wheels.

This thread was a bad idea. Now you've got me looking, too. In Canada, tire shops are generally serious thieves, so it might actually pay off.
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Originally Posted By: CapriRacer


I hope KenO will understand I am not picking on him, but he brought up a subject near and dear to my heart.

I have yet to see ANYONE mount tires 100% correctly. The most frequent mistake is forgetting to lube the rim flange - which where most of the mounting damage occurs.

I've had people claim that bead damage can be caused in dismounting - even after I showed them how it occurs during the mounting process.

So I think EVERONE could use a bit of training on mounting tires.

/end rant


Haha, I can see the logic in this.

Mount a tire up, pop the beads up, ship it out. Good to go, we think.

Unmount a tire, find damage... you dope!!
lol.gif


I guess we should wait for fiber optic inspection cameras to fit through valve stems... if they don't already.
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Just think of Pep Girls showing the customer the inside of their tire on an HDTV and coming up with an upsell somehow based on this.
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FWIW, I found a Coats 5060e that I'm picking up on Wednesday for a song. Just needs a new electric motor. Anybody know where the best place to get one is?
 
Here's what I ended up with:


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Used, slightly older 5060e. Spare set of foot pedals. Needs an electric motor apparently. It has the old one there with it, and it spins freely, so I think when I get a chance I'll take the old motor to an electric repair place and see if it can be fixed or rebuilt before just buying a new one. I paid $250
smile.gif
 
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