See, the interesting point I'm making is that the bypass valve, many say it's open when in fact there is no evidence of this at this time. What is evident is that we need to take into account the resistance of the antidrain back valve having to be over come by the oil pump which would increase the oil pump pressure on the inlet side, and then then the drop on the outlet side... how much pressure is needed to over come the anti drainback valve? Frams anti drainback valve may not have much resistance thus allowing better flow unlike mobils. Point is, at this time I think it is premature to suggest the bypass valve is open at any given moment. What I'd expect to see is when the pressure is increased on the inlet side, the outlet would be low mementaraly, then shoot up to or near the inlet pressure, then settle back down within the range of the by pass pressure 8-12lbs.
I'm still working on a way to watch the bypass so we can actually see this, but not sure yet.
As for the heated oil, first, this oil temp'd out today at 77degrees, IMO, not cold enough to engage the bypass due to thick oil. We do have a barrel heater, which will heat up the bucket of oil to 400 degrees, but we are only going to set it up to 200 then re run these tests with the hot oil. This has got to be systematic, so bear with me as I work on this in stages. I am going to continue to use the 10w30 multi viscosity as it is the most common we use so I want to see just how a regular motor oil is going to perform as if in an engine that's why no straight wt oil will be used in this test at this time.
After we have completed all the basic tests then we'll do some out of the norm things and see what happens. One thing I'm going to do is at the next oil change, I'm going to keep my old filter, with mileage documented, run against the new filter and see just how much flow is lost over that set miles compared to the new one. This could in effect tell us the basic life span of a filter based on mileage. Just another one of those ideas.