When Do You Change Brake Pad ?

[HTSS_TR]

Most brake pads have some kind of sensors, the sensor is usually at about 1.5-2.0 mm thick on the brake lining, brake pad should be replaced before or when the sensor get into contact with rotor.

Brake pads with small metal tabs acting as mechanical wear sensors can wear the rotor when the pad is wear down to it. Brake pads with electronic wear sensor doesn't damage the rotor but it can be expensive at $7-10 or more each.

I usually replace brake pads when lining wears down to around 3-4 mm or the thickness of the backing plate. When the lining wears down to around 4-5 mm I start looking for replacement, so that I have several months looking for sale or deep discount price.

Just bought a 'Used-Like New - Item may come repackaged' StopTech 309.08290 Street Performance Front Brake Pad from Amazon Warehouse Deals for $10, regular price is $45. This pad fits Acura RSX 2002-2006, Civic SI 2006-2011 and all model years S2000.

 

[Eddie]

3-4mm is when I replace pads.

 

[Chris142]

My customers wait until the rotor is into the fins, it kicks the pad backing plate out and the piston jams between the now vented rotor and caliper locking up the wheel @ 65 mph.
Only then will they have it fixed.

 

[Falken]

I keep a set of pads and front rotors in storage.

Then, when I am changing over Summer/Winter tires, if I notice they are getting close to wearing down to the center line depth, I already have the car in the air on stands.

Then it is just a matter of slapping on new rotors and pads, then putting the following season's tires on the car.

Also, I change the oil at that time too, and if I feel like it I do a drain and fill for the Trans.

I try to maximize maintenance when I have the car up in the air on stands and all my tools out and I am dressed in my old clothes.

The savings add up quick!

 

[GSCJR]

Whenever the thickness of the lining is equal to or less than the backing.

 

[ChrisW]

I usually change pads when they're either worn, making excessive noise (even with new hardware), have an odd wear pattern on the rotors, or just don't feel right when braking (pulsing, not enough bite, grabby/bad modulation, too much fade etc.).

I too have bought pads a couple times through Amazon's 'Warehouse Deals' and have been satisfied. Despite the item description being 'Used - Like New' the pads arrived in their original boxes although a little beat up, and the pads were not used or banged up. The only thing I noticed that maybe the hardware was missing, but I don't know if the particular pads came with them in the first place. Bought Akebono pads for an IS250 for $10 regular $60+ and Wagner TQ pads for a Corolla around $10.

 

[jdmstr22]

i change them when they wear down to the center line or the "chamfer" is flush with the rest of the pad. ive bougt one set of duralast pads for my sonata and replace them every year or so with the lifetime warranty.

 

[dparm]

When the sensor tells me to. I inspect them whenever the tires get rotated or I swap the winter wheels on. Most pads have squealers in them anyways, so even if you don't have sensors, they get noisy as [censored] when they need replacing.

 

[KB2008X]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR

I usually replace brake pads when lining wears down to around 3-4 mm or the thickness of the backing plate. When the lining wears down to around 4-5 mm I start looking for replacement, so that I have several months looking for sale or deep discount price.


That's what I do - replace, or begin planning to replace, when the brake material is the same thickness as the backing plate or less. And like you said that gives you time to shop, pick an ideal time, etc.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
My customers wait until the rotor is into the fins, it kicks the pad backing plate out and the piston jams between the now vented rotor and caliper locking up the wheel @ 65 mph.
Only then will they have it fixed.

The sad thing is I know you are not kidding either.

 

[sciphi]

When they're down to 2-3 mm left. Just did the Fit's, along with the rotors.

 

[eljefino]

I've never worn my own out but I have had the backing plate rust jack away from the friction material.

This is very difficult to detect or inspect without taking the pads out of the car and fondling them. I had some supposedly top-shelf Hawk pads do this after only 2.5 years!

Other cars I've worked on, uneven wear due to sticky pins or hardware lead me to do the work. Then typically one pad is nearly all gone and the other three on that axle about half worn.

 

[mrsilv04]

The first brake job I did, was when my folks ran the inboard pad on the passenger front of their Park Avenue down to the backing plate.

So... on that one, Dad waited until there was nothing (literally) left. I slapped a set of pads on, and then they sold it a few months later.

I now take care of all of the brake work myself.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Some cars with aluminum wheels you can check the brake lining thickness fairly easy, especially the outside pad. Most car with steel wheels you can not see the brake pad, so you depend on wear sensor or built-in squealer, or you have to remove the wheel to take a look at the pad.

Every time I have my car at DT for rotation(twice a year) I take a look at the pad to estimate when I need to replace it.

 

[outdoorsman310]

that is way too common! also the "my brakes are making a little noise" when there metal to metal

 

[SS1970chrysler]

Almost never as my cars usually have 4-wheel drums. Last changed a set on a '75 T-bird in '09. They were at 2-3/32 above plate.

 

[supton]

Usually only when I have to. Rotors tend to wear faster than pads so I don't mind going to the rivets. Only thing is, after losing a pad once I'm starting to think a 5 year maximum lifetime should be obeyed.

 

[PandaBear]

When the wear indicator make noise.