Fuse for AC Clutch keeps blowing?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Messages
351
Location
TN
2002 Cadillac Seville STS 4.6L w/150K miles.

AC quit working. It was blowing but not cold. Found AC Clutch fuse had popped. Put in another one which seemed to fix the problem but a couple of days later no cold AC. Checked fuse and it had popped. Swapped AC Relay with Fog Lamp Relay (same relay) put in another AC Clutch fuse which popped immediately when AC started. Swapped relays back and put in another fuse which again popped immediately.

From some reading I am leaning to it being the AC Clutch Coil or the wiring to the coil. The reading indicates if I unplug the AC Clutch put in a new fuse and it pops then it is the wiring if not it is the coil. Does this sound correct? Also I cannot seem to find a way to just get a new coil or new clutch so even if the coil does it mean a new compressor? Any thoughts on this appreciated.
 
The test you describe would be what I would do, along with measuring the resistance of the clutch coil. It should have some low value but not a dead short.

Clutch coils do fail, generally they overheat and the winding insulation breaks down. Or a winding opens up completely.

Cadillac may sell just the clutch (Toyota does for my cars) but I found that a whole new compressor with clutch was cheaper on Amazon than just the clutch from the dealer. Denso makes the compressor for my cars and that's the brand I bought.

Originally Posted By: tnt31
2002 Cadillac Seville STS 4.6L w/150K miles.

AC quit working. It was blowing but not cold. Found AC Clutch fuse had popped. Put in another one which seemed to fix the problem but a couple of days later no cold AC. Checked fuse and it had popped. Swapped AC Relay with Fog Lamp Relay (same relay) put in another AC Clutch fuse which popped immediately when AC started. Swapped relays back and put in another fuse which again popped immediately.

From some reading I am leaning to it being the AC Clutch Coil or the wiring to the coil. The reading indicates if I unplug the AC Clutch put in a new fuse and it pops then it is the wiring if not it is the coil. Does this sound correct? Also I cannot seem to find a way to just get a new coil or new clutch so even if the coil does it mean a new compressor? Any thoughts on this appreciated.
 
I worked on a 98 that would do the same as yours. The wire had rubbed through just before the clutch coil connector.
 
I appreciate the replies. Now to find time to try to work on it. May be about three weeks but at least I have some direction to go on.
 
Clutch coils will wear, actually the steel actuator of the clutch. On Fords it usually shows up as a clutch that won't kick in when hot. You can sometimes nudge the face of the pulley and get it to kick in.

But what is happening is the coil cannot generate enough magnetic force to pull the clutch in. This over heats the coil and over time will blow fuses in some cases.

With the Fords there is a thin shim you can remove between the pulley and coil.

If it does not blow a fuse right away this is probably the problem.
 
I hope you find something simple. I have been going through this on a 1995 Corvette, the owner has already replaced the clutch, diode and all the electronic controls.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I worked on a 98 that would do the same as yours. The wire had rubbed through just before the clutch coil connector.


^^^ I think we have a winner here!!!
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I worked on a 98 that would do the same as yours. The wire had rubbed through just before the clutch coil connector.


^^^ I think we have a winner here!!!


When I get to actually work on it this will be the first thing I check for. Will have to get at it thru the bottom or the passenger side wheel well as it is on the bottom on this thing.
 
Whatever you do, never buy a Compressorworks product. When repairing a Ford Escort, all 3 units we tried had incorrect coil resistance, and would never engage. The thing was even made in America, and I have seen better stuff from China!

Ideally you should get a 100% new Delphi/ACDelco unit, but if you don't intend to hang on to your car much longer, some new clone from China, or some rebuild may be fine
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Whatever you do, never buy a Compressorworks product. When repairing a Ford Escort, all 3 units we tried had incorrect coil resistance, and would never engage. The thing was even made in America, and I have seen better stuff from China!

Ideally you should get a 100% new Delphi/ACDelco unit, but if you don't intend to hang on to your car much longer, some new clone from China, or some rebuild may be fine


Was this new stuff or rebuilt?
Any other brands for A/C stuff would you recommend or recommend avoiding?
The rebuilt units I have seen at Advance Auto look terrible.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Whatever you do, never buy a Compressorworks product. When repairing a Ford Escort, all 3 units we tried had incorrect coil resistance, and would never engage. The thing was even made in America, and I have seen better stuff from China!

Ideally you should get a 100% new Delphi/ACDelco unit, but if you don't intend to hang on to your car much longer, some new clone from China, or some rebuild may be fine


Was this new stuff or rebuilt?
Any other brands for A/C stuff would you recommend or recommend avoiding?
The rebuilt units I have seen at Advance Auto look terrible.

The compressorworks unit I got was 100% new.
Honestly, the only compressors that I trust to last are OEM compressors.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top