Maybe this is a dumb question. I'm considering adding an inline transmission filter when I install my auxiliary transmission cooler. But I'm curious as to how the filter gets changed. I'd imagine it would have the same type of service interval as the pan filter (10K-50K miles) if not more frequent. Would a filter change require removal of the entire assembly and then having to re-flare & re-clamp the TOC hoses? The inline ones I've looked at all have the TOC lines axial: in on one of the circular faces, out on the other.
Replacing inline transmission filter
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Makes sense to change an add-on filter at same interval as trans service. A Magnefine ATF filter uses hose barbs and clamps, so very easy to change. If you let the vehicle sit for a couple of hours, the ATF usually drains back to the pan so virtually no filter spillage.
Most transmission pickup filters are more like pickup screens than actual filters.
Adding a real hydraulic filter would greatly reduce the need for pulling the pan off. When the fluid gets old just change it and stick on a new inline filter.
I run a NAPA 1422 hydraulic filter in a big filter head.
This is how I installed mine.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-d...ion-cooler.html
Transmission heaters, multiple coolers, remote mounts even a thermostat and a filter, all in it adds up to a massively over kill transmission filter/cooler setup.
Adding a real hydraulic filter would greatly reduce the need for pulling the pan off. When the fluid gets old just change it and stick on a new inline filter.
I run a NAPA 1422 hydraulic filter in a big filter head.
This is how I installed mine.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-d...ion-cooler.html
Transmission heaters, multiple coolers, remote mounts even a thermostat and a filter, all in it adds up to a massively over kill transmission filter/cooler setup.
Originally Posted By: AP9
Maybe this is a dumb question. I'm considering adding an inline transmission filter when I install my auxiliary transmission cooler. But I'm curious as to how the filter gets changed. I'd imagine it would have the same type of service interval as the pan filter (10K-50K miles) if not more frequent. Would a filter change require removal of the entire assembly and then having to re-flare & re-clamp the TOC hoses? The inline ones I've looked at all have the TOC lines axial: in on one of the circular faces, out on the other.
Never worry about asking a dumb question. The inline tranny filter might have a different service interval. The magnefine I've installed has a 15K mile replacement interval and I think the tranny service interval is 30K. I usually do a drain and fill of my tranny fluid once a year.
Regards, JC.
Maybe this is a dumb question. I'm considering adding an inline transmission filter when I install my auxiliary transmission cooler. But I'm curious as to how the filter gets changed. I'd imagine it would have the same type of service interval as the pan filter (10K-50K miles) if not more frequent. Would a filter change require removal of the entire assembly and then having to re-flare & re-clamp the TOC hoses? The inline ones I've looked at all have the TOC lines axial: in on one of the circular faces, out on the other.
Never worry about asking a dumb question. The inline tranny filter might have a different service interval. The magnefine I've installed has a 15K mile replacement interval and I think the tranny service interval is 30K. I usually do a drain and fill of my tranny fluid once a year.
Regards, JC.
Probably depends on the filter setup. Also, what's the vehicle? Some factory tranny filters are true filters, like in my GP.
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Some factory tranny filters are true filters, like in my GP.
And the 4R70W RWD transmission in every Crown Vic and F150.
Some factory tranny filters are true filters, like in my GP.
And the 4R70W RWD transmission in every Crown Vic and F150.
The Magnefine has a 30K replacement interval but often can go longer. 30K is safe.
The Ford factory pan filters are felt and if the SPX/Filtran brand (many are/were) they are 80 um filters. There are 80 um screens but the ones in transmissions I know about are between 100 and 200 um
The Ford factory pan filters are felt and if the SPX/Filtran brand (many are/were) they are 80 um filters. There are 80 um screens but the ones in transmissions I know about are between 100 and 200 um
It's a 2000 Ford Explorer V6 4WD. Ordered an aux. transmission cooler since it's not uncommon for the transmission temp. to go over 200 especially on hot days. Thinking about adding the inline filter at the same time I install the cooler.
My main concern though is how to replace that filter when the time comes. Would I need to then unclamp the TOC hoses from the filter and replace the entire assembly?
My main concern though is how to replace that filter when the time comes. Would I need to then unclamp the TOC hoses from the filter and replace the entire assembly?
Yes, it's just like replacing an inline fuel filter on a carbureted engine. Mount the filter in an accessible (but protected) place on the return line downstream of both coolers. Debris likes to collect in coolers and come loose later. The filter in the return line will catch all that stuff before it returns to the trans. Cooler return is most often used for lubrication of hard parts.
Where are you reading trans temp? And under what circumstances... city, highway towing, etc? 200F is not that drastic for the most part, depending on the situation.
Where are you reading trans temp? And under what circumstances... city, highway towing, etc? 200F is not that drastic for the most part, depending on the situation.
Reading temp on Scangauge II. I believe the OBD-II TFT sensor is in the pan. I'm getting these temperatures both in city driving and highway driving, not towing. It does seem like the trans fluid temp wants to "stabilize" to about water temperature (195F) once it's warm. I don't know if that's coincidence or because of the radiator design.
AP9-here's how I change mine on the Storm Trooper. After ensuring that I can get the fill plug open, I remove the drain plug and let the pan drain. While this happens, I get a second drain pan and place it under the the inline filter and loosen the hose clamp on the barb end closest to the tranny and pull the filter out. The contents in the cooler will now empty out into the pan.Replacing the filter then is just a matter of removing the other end and putting in the new one. Be sure to place the filter in the same flow direction as the original. And be sure when you install your filter initially to ensure the fluid flow direction is from the cooler to the tranny, and the filter directional arrows follow this.
After buttoning everything up, fill according to transmission manufactures instructions- it can be tricky.
Another option to fook at with the inline filter setup is the so-called 2 bucket fluid flush system. Various sites (maybe even here on BITOG) will have instructions for this. Because you already have an easily separated access site when the filter is removed, its simple to place auxiliary lines.
After buttoning everything up, fill according to transmission manufactures instructions- it can be tricky.
Another option to fook at with the inline filter setup is the so-called 2 bucket fluid flush system. Various sites (maybe even here on BITOG) will have instructions for this. Because you already have an easily separated access site when the filter is removed, its simple to place auxiliary lines.
BTW - the Magnefine can go in the supply or return line as long as there has not been any transmission failure. If there has, it needs to go in the return line.
Originally Posted By: AP9
Reading temp on Scangauge II. I believe the OBD-II TFT sensor is in the pan. I'm getting these temperatures both in city driving and highway driving, not towing. It does seem like the trans fluid temp wants to "stabilize" to about water temperature (195F) once it's warm. I don't know if that's coincidence or because of the radiator design.
Yes, most Ford products have a sensor in the valve body (if they have one, not all do). I researched this a learned th reading is somewhat a composite reading of TC temp and pan temp. Some higher than the pan but lots cooler that TC temp. I have a 4R75W in my F150 and can read the OBDII temp as well as pan and cooler line temp. I generally always read OBD and pan temp and they are often pretty close as long as the converter is locked up. In town, OBDII generally reads a lot higher because the converter is locking and unlocking.
My truck has a 9 row factory cooler (it's the 8200 GVW F150) and it has a Mag-Heytec deep finned pan. On a 90 degree day, OBD temp is usually around 160-170.
If your Explorer only has the radiator cooler, your temps make sense. I will say again that the temps you mention would not indicate to me that you have a problem and I wouldn't invest the money in a cooler. Especially a big one. You can go too far the other way as well but it's mostly just a case of diminished financial returns. Going from a normal 200 down to 150-160F will not offer any reasonable payback for the money spent. The caveat is whether you ever do any towing or hauling and see higher sustained temps in that venue. If it stays below short term spikes below 250F and sustained up to 230F and you don't do it often, it will somewhat shorten the life of the oil but the trans will handle it fine.
If you are bound and determined to get a cooler, get a moderately sized stacked unit like the type B&M offers.
The filtration option is definitely worth pursuing. Read this:
Trans Filtration
Reading temp on Scangauge II. I believe the OBD-II TFT sensor is in the pan. I'm getting these temperatures both in city driving and highway driving, not towing. It does seem like the trans fluid temp wants to "stabilize" to about water temperature (195F) once it's warm. I don't know if that's coincidence or because of the radiator design.
Yes, most Ford products have a sensor in the valve body (if they have one, not all do). I researched this a learned th reading is somewhat a composite reading of TC temp and pan temp. Some higher than the pan but lots cooler that TC temp. I have a 4R75W in my F150 and can read the OBDII temp as well as pan and cooler line temp. I generally always read OBD and pan temp and they are often pretty close as long as the converter is locked up. In town, OBDII generally reads a lot higher because the converter is locking and unlocking.
My truck has a 9 row factory cooler (it's the 8200 GVW F150) and it has a Mag-Heytec deep finned pan. On a 90 degree day, OBD temp is usually around 160-170.
If your Explorer only has the radiator cooler, your temps make sense. I will say again that the temps you mention would not indicate to me that you have a problem and I wouldn't invest the money in a cooler. Especially a big one. You can go too far the other way as well but it's mostly just a case of diminished financial returns. Going from a normal 200 down to 150-160F will not offer any reasonable payback for the money spent. The caveat is whether you ever do any towing or hauling and see higher sustained temps in that venue. If it stays below short term spikes below 250F and sustained up to 230F and you don't do it often, it will somewhat shorten the life of the oil but the trans will handle it fine.
If you are bound and determined to get a cooler, get a moderately sized stacked unit like the type B&M offers.
The filtration option is definitely worth pursuing. Read this:
Trans Filtration
Yeah, the trans temp is in the plastic circuit board they use as a harness inside the transmission. Its low enough to be in fluid, usually, but since its sitting against the VB I can see that affecting the temps as well. I have seen it hit 230F on my 4R70W once, climbing a mountain at 80mph in 3rd unlocked.
Normal temps on a 90F day is about 180-190. This is with a LPW deep aluminium pan and factory stacked plate cooler.
Normal temps on a 90F day is about 180-190. This is with a LPW deep aluminium pan and factory stacked plate cooler.
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