Valvoline Maxlife ATF vs JES-3309

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Just bought 2006 Volvo V70 with non-turbo 2.4L engine with 140k miles last Saturday.

Checking various fluids and misc items under the hood, the transmission fluid is very black but no burnt smell. Owner Manual recommends JWS-3309 ATF, I searched and found that Maxlife ATF can be used instead of JWS-3309(which is the same as Toyota Type-IV. The bonus is Maxlife is synthetic and JWS-3309 is not, and it costs a little less at Walmart ($16.xx a gallon).

What do you guys think ? Any has experience with Maxlife ATF used instead of recommended JWS-3309 ?

TIA

PS When I searched for both terms Maxlife and JWS-3309, only 2-3 threads came up.
 
Maxlife says that it is "recommended for use" where JWS-3309 is required.

Mobil 3309 and Toyota T-IV fluid meet JWS-3309.

I just ordered a case of Mobil 3309 from Amazon to do a flush on the T-5 tomorrow.

Interesting that Mobil's very own M1 ATF is no longer recommended for use where JWS-3309 is required. It once was, but several years ago, Mobil removed that from the list of recommended applications for their synthetic fluid....

I would get this kit, and 14-16 QTs to do a full flush.

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/107945-automatic-transmission-flush-hose-kit
 
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Good point.

Just because something is synthetic does NOT mean it is
"better" for your application. The unit was originally designed to be run with dino based ATF, not synthetic, and the friction modifiers in the 3309 are different from the MaxLife as well.

Go with the Toyota IV/ 3309 fluid and be sure you're using the correct fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
#3309 ATF was devoloped especially for the AISIN transmissions according to Mobil. I would use it. Ed



I have used both Valvoline Maxlife and Castrol IMV in an Aisin A/T in a Toyota and both worked
flawlessly. I would assume it would work just as well in an Aisin A/T in a Volvo.
 
Different Aisin transmissions spec different fluid. Ive used Maxlife in the Aisin in my 4 Runner. It worked fine, no better, no worse than any other DEX III.

I've used only Mobil 3309 and Toyota T-IV in the exact transmission that the OP has. Those spec a JWS-3309.

I've got 150,000 miles on the T5 and 172,000 on the XC and they work flawlessly. The AW-55/50 series transmissions have a reputation for premature failure, yet mine are still running strong.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Maxlife says that it is "recommended for use" where JWS-3309 is required.

Mobil 3309 and Toyota T-IV fluid meet JWS-3309.

I just ordered a case of Mobil 3309 from Amazon to do a flush on the T-5 tomorrow.

Interesting that Mobil's very own M1 ATF is no longer recommended for use where JWS-3309 is required. It once was, but several years ago, Mobil removed that from the list of recommended applications for their synthetic fluid....

I would get this kit, and 14-16 QTs to do a full flush.

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/107945-automatic-transmission-flush-hose-kit

Thank you for the link to the flush kit, I will think about do a flush with the kit.

Or I can use the Mityvac to extract old ATF from dipstick tube then refill with new ATF, doing it several times with get most old fluid out.

The instruction for the flush kit mentions that "To properly check the fluid level, the ATF should be at operating temperature... With the engine running at idle re-check the fluid level"

The problem is the dipstick is way down below the radiator hose, to get to the dipstick when the engine is hot can gt burnt easily. I don't know exactly how to check the ATF level for the V70 yet, I read the owner manual once and could not find how to do it.

I think of all cars I had, Volvo V70(and may be other models) has the worse location for the ATF dipstick. Difficult to get to when the engine is cold, almost impossible for not getting burnt when the engine is hot.
 
The crummy little dipstick on that transmission has caused many people, including me, no end of frustration... There is a clip that retains it, and the fluid check is pretty standard: transmission warm (20+ minutes of driving), engine idling in park, pull, clean and reinsert to check level. There is a hot range, and a cold range on the dipstick, but the hot range is more accurate...

I recommend long sleeves.

You'll likely only get about 2 - 3 QTs out with a mityvac, and the transmission hold 8, so I don't recommend that approach. The drain plug is easy to find, and uses the same size aluminum crush washer as the oil drain plug, so a drain and fill would be a better option....and you'll drain about 3.5 QTs out if you go that route, but again, you've got to check the level when you're done...

For more on your car, I recommend reading through Howard's Volvo site, he's documented a lot of this stuff.

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

I belong to a Volvo XC forum, which is relevant (though focused on the AWD version of the car) to your car.

There is the car forum here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/ - look for the 2001-2007 XC

And a resources section here: http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/
which includes several guides on various maintenance procedures on the XC, most of which are applicable to your V70.

The 2006 has a good transmission, the early versions of the AW55-50/51 had issues; a valve body that wore prematurely, and a neutral-shift software program that caused excessive wear, and they tended to fail early. I'm running updated valve bodies and software in both cars, and have had zero issues with the transmissions after the updates.
 
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Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
I would just use Toyota T-IV.
Maxlife is far better and drastically improves cold weather shifting in both of my Aisin transmissions. Same fluid recommendation as the Volvo.
 
If Maxlife is a suitable fluid, then why do they make an "Import Multivehicle" fluid? Is that one "more suitable"? I would not use an "all-purpose" fluid, as I just don't see how the friction modifying characteristics are going to be the same among a ton of different transmissions.
 
Thanks Astro.

I need to get fluid first, I'm leaning toward Maxlife Dex/Merc partially I have $30 store credit when my wife returned something to WM without receipt.

I will then try to look at under the hood to see if I can disconnect the transmission line at the radiator without damage something else to do the flush with the kit from ipd.com.

The easiest, cleanest and without breaking anything is using the Mityvac, I used it to do ATF in my LS400 and E430 without a drop of ATF anywhere. But it needs a lot more fluid than flush from the return line.
 
If you don't know the history the unit should first have the pan dropped and the filter changed.

Then consider a cooler line flush. Easy and quick. I have a 5 gallon pail marked in quarts so I can replace EXACTLY what I removed.

As for fluid, that's a bit of a [censored], I'd use Astro's site to figure out the peculiarities of the Volvo application.
 
Pan drop isn't really an option on this install...there is no pan...and the transmission filter is internal, requiring disassembly to remove it.

If you want to see how tight this thing is in the car, read the write up on R & R for the valve body (hint; you have to move the subframe to get the VB cover off...) here:

http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf

That lack of decent filtration, or ability to access the filter, is why I prefer the complete flush...gets all the old fluid (and suspended contamination) out...I've been meaning to add an external filter to both Volvo transmissions, like the one I have on the 4 Runner, but never quite get the time....
 
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Originally Posted By: Astro14
The crummy little dipstick on that transmission has caused many people, including me, no end of frustration... There is a clip that retains it, and the fluid check is pretty standard: transmission warm (20+ minutes of driving), engine idling in park, pull, clean and reinsert to check level. There is a hot range, and a cold range on the dipstick, but the hot range is more accurate...

I recommend long sleeves.

You'll likely only get about 2 - 3 QTs out with a mityvac, and the transmission hold 8, so I don't recommend that approach. The drain plug is easy to find, and uses the same size aluminum crush washer as the oil drain plug, so a drain and fill would be a better option....and you'll drain about 3.5 QTs out if you go that route, but again, you've got to check the level when you're done...

For more on your car, I recommend reading through Howard's Volvo site, he's documented a lot of this stuff.

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/

I belong to a Volvo XC forum, which is relevant (though focused on the AWD version of the car) to your car.

There is the car forum here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/ - look for the 2001-2007 XC

And a resources section here: http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/
which includes several guides on various maintenance procedures on the XC, most of which are applicable to your V70.

The 2006 has a good transmission, the early versions of the AW55-50/51 had issues; a valve body that wore prematurely, and a neutral-shift software program that caused excessive wear, and they tended to fail early. I'm running updated valve bodies and software in both cars, and have had zero issues with the transmissions after the updates.

Thanks Astro for the links to Volvo forums. Seems like you know your Volvo much more than me, I know nothing about it.

How much do you think 12 liters of Volvo OEM ATF part# 1161540 cost, shipping included ? Is $70-75 shipped reasonable ? May be I should call local Volvo dealer(s) to see how much per quart (or liter).

I think flushing with the return line disconnected is not so bad after reading the IDP's instruction several times and looking at the connector at the radiator. Either buy the flush kit from them or go to local hardware store buy 4 feet clear hose and some clamps.

So far, the MPG is about 21-22 MPG for city driving with average MPH of around 22-23 MPH, after 30 miles driving the last few days.

My daughter like the wagon, she can have her bicycle in the cargo area to go places.
 
I'd get the flush kit from IPD. When I tried to get new clamps from the dealer they cost more than the flush kit, so it was a no-brainer. Doing a flush on this car is really easy. I think your best bet is to do a full flush, then a drain and fill every 20K or so.

I've found that the 3309 fluid from Toyota or my local Ford dealer (can't remember the part #) is quite a bit cheaper than the Volvo fluid, though 75$ for a case of 12 sounds good.
 
Agree with JOD on the o-ring/clip experience...clips alone cost $8 each last time I was at the dealer...so the kit is a better bargain.

Many Volvo owners have installed a Magnefine filter in this set-up, but it's not easy...the cooler hose is short, molded and tough to cut (a new one will run you over $100 if you mess it up) and it's in a very tight space...part of why I've not done it...read through Howard's notes (on the previous link) on installing one if you're considering the Magnefine...

For fluid source: I've bought Toyota T-IV at my local Toyota dealer many times, $6.75/QT list, they give me a 10% military discount to bring it down to about $6/QT. Reasonable price, great availability.

But I just bought the Mobil 3309 on Amazon for $61.00/case of 12...and with Prime, shipping is free...that's the best deal that I know of...

I would be very cautious about using Maxlife Dex/Merc in this transmission. While the Maxlife may work very well in other Aisin transmissions that spec a JWS-3309, other Volvo owners have had mixed results in this particular transmission...some report poor shifting as a result. If you try Maxlife, it's an experiment, I can't recommend it in good conscience.

I know that the Mobil 3309 and the Toyota T-IV will work well in this transmission...I've owned both these cars for 6 years now and have flushed them each a couple of times. The Mobil and T-IV are a safe bet, I recommend them.
 
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