2003 Nissan xterra #6 spark Plug HELP

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My Fathers wife, or my step mother I guess you could say has a 2003 Nissan Xterra with 103K miles so my Father just had a transmission fluid changed and air filter changed and new timing belt with tensioner and he figured why it was in the shop he would have new spark plugs put in. Well he bought his own parts and he knows the owner of the garage so he dont mind. So he goes to pick up the truck and the mechanic gives him back 1 spark plug. My Father says whats this? The guy says I charge 250$ to change what he called the spark plug from [censored]. SO my dad called the dealer and they wanted 170$ to change 1 spark plug...

My question is.. Does anyone know a trick or do they sell a special tool to change that 1 plug???

Also why would NISSAN make a car that that its so hard to change 1 spark plug?

The owner of the garage told my father they have to take the hood off the car and the top of the ENGINE and its just a huge job.

I mean why would NISSAN Do that???????????

That seems crazy.

anways... if you know a trick let me know, or if there is a special took let me know...

also if someone can make a special tool just for that job they can make big $

Thanks
 
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Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Everytime I hear NISSAN I think of NISSEN...the former bread company...

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This is quite possably the most useful comment ever on BITOG. I feel enlightened.
 
I'm assuming this id a VG33EE.

There's no need for a special tool. You just need a mechanic who's built right for that kind of work. If he has fingers that look like fat sausages and his wrists are big enough to be ankles, yeah, he's not going to want to change out that plug. Find someone who's built lighter and suddenly it goes from being a nightmare to a mildly unpleasant 15 minute job.
 
Kinda sounds like the old Ford Aerostar 3.0 motors.. #6 plug was the hardest of all of them.. (unless you cut a whole in the floorboard)
 
With the right swivel sockets and extensions, and removing any little clip or bracket that's in the way, its doable.

I love my FWD revision of the VG33E, its silly easy on them.

But we still share our knock sensor/MAP sensor/distributor problems.
 
I have a 2004 and have done research on this.

First off:
The car comes with iridium plugs.
They are good for at least 100,000 miles.
I haven't done mine, I probably need to as the wires look like poo and they definitely need replacing. (Yes I've had the timing belt done recently, just don't have 100,000 on it yet.)

From what I understand,
What you need is two 6" extensions for your ratchet and a universal joint between them to get at the plug.
Yes it is a bear, but it can be done.

Why the mechanic is such a jerk I don't know. This isn't rocket science, it is a plug.

There are many engines out there that require you to cut a hole in the floor, or take the engine off a engine mount, to get to a spark plug.

Shoot, my father talks about working on a friends car (as a teenager) who recently brought it back from the stealership for the 2nd time to have the spark plugs replaced.
The "professionals" couldn't get it running smooth.

After a half hour of working on it they decided to try for that one last plug in the back.
It took them the rest of the day, but after removing a motor mount and gently lowering the engine on a jack, they got to that 8th plug.

There was no center portion left, it hadn't broken off, it had eroded.
The car had been through 3 sets of plugs, and nobody, including both visits to the stealership, had decided to replace it.

You could balance a nickle on its side the engine was running so smooth afterward.

Point being, this is a problem that has been going on for some time.

Iridium plugs replace the need to change out plugs every 15,000-30,000 miles like they were with copper plugs.
Manufacturers have used this to ensure that DIY's have to go to the stealership.

It's a sign of the times.
 
It is like a Toyota 2GR-FE rear bank. You need a deep well special hollow spark plug tool and a 12-14 inch piece of clear plastic tubing. You get tubing that fits snug over the end of the spark plug. Then you break loose the plug with the special tool. Remove plug tool and push tubing over end of the plug. Finish unscrewing plug with tubing and remove. Take new plug and coat threads LIGHTLY with permatex anti-seize compound. Push tubing over plug end. Insert plug in well and thread in with tubing. Once you hit the point where it is "finger tight" pull off tubing and finish tightening with special hollow socket tool. Done.

Here is one style : http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES1306821/ES1306821/

Here is another: http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI22219-Drive-Socket/dp/B000GTR152

There are many on amazon


Then try using a spring/flexible extension.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-High-Strength-Spring-Socket-Extension/dp/B000RJN1GO
 
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#6 on our pathfinder (1997) was awful. I think they basically suggest removing the intake manifold.

I did the plug through the little access (?) hole in the manifold... with a variety of extensions and u-joints from mine and my neighbor's tool boxes.

I was never impressed by nissan's under-hood planning. It was not a friendly vehicle to work on, at all.

Drove great, and was reliable.
 
Originally Posted By: David1

Also why would NISSAN make a car that that its so hard to change 1 spark plug?



Modular assembly. All vehicles are assembles in modules. So the whole engine/trans/accessory drive system/ axles/etc.is now a single module that is lowered in and bolted down as one unit. The more parts they can bolt onto that assembly and connect it as one piece the faster/cheaper they can assemble the vehicle. The chassis is now assembled as "corners"
 
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