Looking for an over-the-counter transmission cleaner...

[unDummy]

Napa can order the Lubegard ATF flush if they don't have it on the shelves. Most BG/Wynn shops should be able to sell you the ATF flush.

That seems like a good plan. Add the flush, wedge the tires(back up to a wall tree whatever), start 'er up an leave her in reverse for 20 minutes, then either perform several drain/refills or full Ttec(cooler line) flush. Don't forget to service the filter when you're done.
If the flush helps the reverse slam, I'd seriously consider upgrading to a full synthetic ATF, using Lubegard/Smartblend red, and/or practicing a more frequent ATF/filter change intervals to prevent future issues.

For the ARX to work, he'll need to drive in reverse for extended periods. Not feasible to drive in R on the way to work!

 

[psudaytona]

For ARX you just pour in the dosage and drive as you normally do then get a full flush.


Yeah it takes 1000 miles of driving, but thats ANY sort of driving. Why drive in reverse?

Even with the lubeguard flush, you add in the bottle, allow the solution to run through for 5 minutes. Cycle through all gears then flush it out.

Unless your trouble is REALLY bad right now and you're sure its related to sludge. I would really just allow ARX to do its job at the speed it works at.

 

[unDummy]

Because valve body fluid flow is selective. His issue is with the reverse slam. The only was to have ARX flow through that portion of the VB is to drive in reverse. This is why a flush product, which works faster, is the better choice.

 

[flatlandtacoma]

quote:

---

Originally posted by The Critic:
That will quickly dissolve varnish/buildup within 20-30 minutes of idling in my transmission.

---

I've never used it but Seafoam also has a flush called TRANS TUNE (R)

The directions say "...For best results use 1/2 to 1 pint SEA FOAM TRANS TUNE in the transmission fluid prior to a transmission flush or fluid and filter change. Drive at least five miles shifting into all gears. If you are not able to drive the vehicle, shift into all gears for about 3 minutes with the brake or parking brake applied. This will allow SEA FOAM TRANS TUNE to clean transmission valves and parts in each area. "

It is available OTC for the same price as regular Seafoam. It also shares the same MSDS with Seafoam

 

[ebaker]

Big Lots has Pennzoil High Mileage Automatic trans treatment. I checked the MSDS and it's 85% detergent. It says it doesn't change the fluid's friction characteristics.

 

[The Critic]

That will quickly dissolve varnish/buildup within 20-30 minutes of idling in my transmission.

When the problem eventually bites me, I plan to change the ATF in my Saturn and allow the vehicle to idle in reverse for 20-30 minutes to allow new fluid to flow through that valve (as its rarely use) to dissolve and buildup or varnish to cure a "revere slam" problem.

The only products I can think of, at the moment, are Lubegard, Wynn's, or BG's transmission flush products, but none of which are avaliable OTC.

PS- I have Auto-RX in there already, right now.

TIA.

 

[psudaytona]

I would leave it to ARX honestly. I dont think I would want to clean a tranny in a few minutes. If there is alot of sludge in it, the valve body might catch it and make a blockage.

 

[Steelhead]

any chemical that will remove auto tranny varnish in 20 minutes will have harmful effects on seals and the fiber bands and clutch plates....
stick with AutoRX or Lubeguard and let it work.

 

[Rick20]

You should get enough reverse mode running in a 1000 mile run with ARX to be effective. How many miles have you run with ARX in the trans.? How old or how many miles on the current fluid?

 

[The Critic]

Thanks for all of the replies. I luckily have not had any slam shift problems yet, but I would just like to be prepared in the event that they hit me.

Auto-RX has been in for around 400 miles currently, no change in shift quality (significant), but my fluid has lost a lot of its red dye.

I found a Lubegard ATF Flush Additive and Protectant combination pack for $21.95 including shipping. Once I fix my leak, I may end up using M1 ATF at a partial, 55% fill.

 

[BlazerLT]

Go get a transmission fluid chage with a T-tech.

Solvents and cleaners in your tranny will cause a failure.

TRanny fluid is actually more a cleaner than an oil and it will do the job itself.

 

[Rick20]

The red dye is not missing. Oxidized fluid deposits are being dissolved and suspended. This is exactly the debris that typically won't drain during a normal change out. Deposits are likely being dissolved out of the torque converter. Safe to say when you purge this fluid out, the new fluid will be working in a much cleaner environment. The new fluid will love you. I recommend using the T-Tech process for purging.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

Ensure that the fluid exchange place is reputable. J-Lube is in trouble for not performing the service for which they charged.

 

[GMorg]

BlazerLT wrote: "TRanny fluid is actually more a cleaner than an oil..."


Anyone have a reference for this statement?

 

[Rick20]

IMO conventional tranny fluids have enough detergent/ dispersant adds to sustain normal operation for 30,000 miles. Beyond that it is likely to start depositing. So my point is why not dissolve the deposits with the ARX before purging out the trans fluid. It eliminates the addition of fresh fluid into a dirty transmission. Why have the fresh fluid tax its additives cleaning up what the old fluid left behind.

 

[BlazerLT]

quote:

---

Originally posted by GMorg:
BlazerLT wrote: "TRanny fluid is actually more a cleaner than an oil..."


Anyone have a reference for this statement?

---

nope but it is well known that tranny fluid is really high in detergent.

Want proof of that? Do some reading on this board.

Thanks.

 

[GMorg]

First, I must apologize to MolaKule for using his comments exclusively. However, he is very well respected and considered an authority. So please consider my use of his words as a compliment.

BlazerLT wrote: "Want proof of that? Do some reading on this board."

I took his advice and concluded that a myth is being perpetuated. I am not a fan of myth so I offer the following quotes in hopes that those that have ears will hear.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005373;p=2#000029
February 18, 2004
Quote from MolaKule: Current ATF's have a very low level of detergents and some dispersants. Check the Virgin Oil section for an analysis of both blended and synthetic ATF's, and you will see add levels at about 1/10 that of an SL motor oil.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002488#000010
October 21, 2004
Quote from MolaKule: The only ATF that would be of any use as a flush would have been the Type-A ATF (circa 1940's), which once had loads of adds plus kerosene. Otherwise, you are just thinning the oil with a fluid that has 1/5 the AW and detergent adds of any cheap motor oil.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000280#000007
February 24, 2003
In regard to ATF:
Quote from MolaKule: The Detergent/Dispersant package is pretty weak.
Now the phosphorous and sulfur could react some with some of the sludge,
but the only thing I can think of that might even contribute to solvency is simply
the light 0W20 viscosity.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000251#000020
February 12, 2003
Quote from MolaKule: Since ATF's do not see blow-by gasses, there is no need for the same concentration or type of detergents.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009059#000023
December 17, 2004
Quote from MolaKule: I guess you missed my and other's post(s) against using ATF.
The only ATF worth using for flushes is Type A. But it is obsolete and almost impossible to find.

 

[Volvohead]

Use ARX. It works very well in an AT, and quite safely in my experience.

 

[psudaytona]

My local dollar store has TONS of ATF- Type A fluid....yeah I dont know why either. They also sell "SB" rated oil right next to it. Its brand name is "XXX", yeah thats really three x's.

 

[Rick20]

Why would someone want to purge out all the existing trans fluid to replace with several quarts of an ancient ATF formula to use as a short cycle cleaner, only to have to drain out the likely incompatable fluid to achieve cleaning. For 12 bucks, just add 6 ounces of ARX to the existing fluid and run 1000 miles, before purging. Its more cost effective and creates alot less waste, not to mention time.