1978 Volare Wagon Slant Six Oil
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It's not a good idea to use oil that excessive thick as it puts unnecessary strain on the oil pump gear. Use a pressure gauge to verify that your oil's viscosity is correct.
SL6 Oil Pump Gear Failure and Oil System Information
SL6 Oil Pump Gear Failure and Oil System Information
Oh my!! We had growing up as kids a '77 Volare station wagon, with a slant six!! It went 417K miles!!! Drove us kids around, was my brother's first car, my first car and even went to college with me!! Crazy the car is still around, doesn't surprise me the slant six is though. Those motors are forever! We abused it it's whole life. Bought the cheapest oil and my mom could never remember to get the oil changed so we often left Jiffy Lube with my mom crying because the guys would make her feel so bad. The last 6 or 7 years it ran, we never changed the oil or filte! It leaked so bad, like 2-3 quarts a day, that we just topped her off! Hehe! Sorry, had to interrupt, my professional opinion: the cheapest oil is the best oil buddy!
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BTW there is a ballace resistor on the ignition system and they can burn out anytime.
The 60's versions of the 225 and its smaller brother had a single resistor. The 70's versions have a duel resistor set-up. It is a white ceramic module mounted to the fire-wall by one bolt. There are two electric connections (one on each side) and each has two electric connections. One of those resistors is used to supply a hotter spark during starting. The other is used during run.
That's a common misconception. The ballast resistor is COMPLETELY bypassed during cranking with direct 12v being fed to the coil instead of through the ballast. The second resistor that was incorporated in the early electronic systems with the "dual ballast resistor" was actually a bias resistor for the big switching power transistor in the electronic control module, and it was always in the circuit both during running and during cranking. Later (circa 1977 or so and onward) electronic modules moved that bias resistor inside the module itself and went back to the same single ballast resistor that the old point ignition systems used- you used to be able to identify those control modules by the fact that they only have 4 pins on the harness connector versus 5 pins on the early electronic module that required the dual ballast. The simple fact is that ALL replacement Chrysler electronic modules built since the 80s have the internal resistor, and so if you put one of those into a dual-resistor car, they just ignore that second resistor paired with the ballast resistor int he ceramic block and use the internal one. Some of them still have 5 pins on the connector, but its not connected to anything. the only time you'll ever run into a problem is if you find a new-old-stock or used electronic module built between 1971 and about 1977 and try to use it with a single ballast. It just won't work in that case because the circuit through the power transistor is broken.
Also, the ballast resistor and control module for Mopars is interchangeable between all engines- Smallblock v8, bigblock v8, slant-6... they all use the same module and ballast resistor.
Here endeth the Chrysler electronic ignition history lesson ;-)
and PS- I've driven ballast-resistor equipped Mopars for somewhere between 400k and half a million miles... I ALWAYS carried a spare ballast resistor, but I NEVER had one fail. Ever. I have had the electronic module die while out on the road (and I usually carried a spare for it too, since its so easy to replace), but I'm the very rare Mopar driver who can say he never lost a ballast resistor.
BTW there is a ballace resistor on the ignition system and they can burn out anytime.
The 60's versions of the 225 and its smaller brother had a single resistor. The 70's versions have a duel resistor set-up. It is a white ceramic module mounted to the fire-wall by one bolt. There are two electric connections (one on each side) and each has two electric connections. One of those resistors is used to supply a hotter spark during starting. The other is used during run.
That's a common misconception. The ballast resistor is COMPLETELY bypassed during cranking with direct 12v being fed to the coil instead of through the ballast. The second resistor that was incorporated in the early electronic systems with the "dual ballast resistor" was actually a bias resistor for the big switching power transistor in the electronic control module, and it was always in the circuit both during running and during cranking. Later (circa 1977 or so and onward) electronic modules moved that bias resistor inside the module itself and went back to the same single ballast resistor that the old point ignition systems used- you used to be able to identify those control modules by the fact that they only have 4 pins on the harness connector versus 5 pins on the early electronic module that required the dual ballast. The simple fact is that ALL replacement Chrysler electronic modules built since the 80s have the internal resistor, and so if you put one of those into a dual-resistor car, they just ignore that second resistor paired with the ballast resistor int he ceramic block and use the internal one. Some of them still have 5 pins on the connector, but its not connected to anything. the only time you'll ever run into a problem is if you find a new-old-stock or used electronic module built between 1971 and about 1977 and try to use it with a single ballast. It just won't work in that case because the circuit through the power transistor is broken.
Also, the ballast resistor and control module for Mopars is interchangeable between all engines- Smallblock v8, bigblock v8, slant-6... they all use the same module and ballast resistor.
Here endeth the Chrysler electronic ignition history lesson ;-)
and PS- I've driven ballast-resistor equipped Mopars for somewhere between 400k and half a million miles... I ALWAYS carried a spare ballast resistor, but I NEVER had one fail. Ever. I have had the electronic module die while out on the road (and I usually carried a spare for it too, since its so easy to replace), but I'm the very rare Mopar driver who can say he never lost a ballast resistor.
How about slant-6 trivia:
How many different displacements of slant-6 were there between 1960 and 1986?
Which ones were "raised deck" (RG engines) and which were standard (G) blocks?
Name two major slant-6 engine component castings that were never produced in an aluminum version, just cast iron (little stuff like oil pumps don't count).
How many different displacements of slant-6 were there between 1960 and 1986?
Which ones were "raised deck" (RG engines) and which were standard (G) blocks?
Name two major slant-6 engine component castings that were never produced in an aluminum version, just cast iron (little stuff like oil pumps don't count).
3 diff displacements. two low deck one tall deck. i have lost 2 resistors. the first on in a new 77 d100. the winter dropped snow, and water, and the water froze behind the resistor. course i got out my FACTORY service manual. the first thing it had me do was check the resistance of the resistor. trouble solved..there is NO substituent for a FACTORY manual. i have about 23 of them.
Originally Posted By: morris
3 diff displacements. two low deck one tall deck. i have lost 2 resistors. the first on in a new 77 d100. the winter dropped snow, and water, and the water froze behind the resistor. course i got out my FACTORY service manual. the first thing it had me do was check the resistance of the resistor. trouble solved..there is NO substituent for a FACTORY manual. i have about 23 of them.
The 170 was the only "low" deck or "G" engine. The 198 and 225 were both raised deck (RG) engines.
3 diff displacements. two low deck one tall deck. i have lost 2 resistors. the first on in a new 77 d100. the winter dropped snow, and water, and the water froze behind the resistor. course i got out my FACTORY service manual. the first thing it had me do was check the resistance of the resistor. trouble solved..there is NO substituent for a FACTORY manual. i have about 23 of them.
The 170 was the only "low" deck or "G" engine. The 198 and 225 were both raised deck (RG) engines.
Originally Posted By: morris
the first on in a new 77 d100.
not a slant 6, but my '72 D-100 was about the best truck I ever had - dropped some brand new seats from a '92 or so (same bolt pattern = 5 minute installation - woohoo) - got the A/C ice cold, 383 motor, legendary 727 automatic tranny, all new front steering parts, it was like pure luxury meets pure manly!
the first on in a new 77 d100.
not a slant 6, but my '72 D-100 was about the best truck I ever had - dropped some brand new seats from a '92 or so (same bolt pattern = 5 minute installation - woohoo) - got the A/C ice cold, 383 motor, legendary 727 automatic tranny, all new front steering parts, it was like pure luxury meets pure manly!
ok magnum my old brain wasnt working right. i did have 2 of the 225. i even modded one to 2 bbl carb. before chrysler did. made it feel like an other engine was added.
"Name two major slant-6 engine component castings that were never produced in an aluminum version, just cast iron "
- engine head.
- intake manifold.
What was the name of the 727 that was mated to it?
( 727A- smallblock/ 727B- big block/ 727?- slant six. )
What engine got the worlds first serial produced alternator as
standard equipment?
- engine head.
- intake manifold.
What was the name of the 727 that was mated to it?
( 727A- smallblock/ 727B- big block/ 727?- slant six. )
What engine got the worlds first serial produced alternator as
standard equipment?
IIRC, I ran 10w40 in the 2 I had a 66 Valiant and a 74 Dart.
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