replacing battery buick lucerne
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Make sure everything is turned off before you remove the battery: radio, climate control, etc. You don't want any power surges going through those later. That's about it.
The seat just lifts out (grab from underside of front edge). You might have to give it a firm jerk. Don't be shy -- you can't hurt it. It just lifts out.
The breather hose just pulls off. If you are careful, you can remove battery while otherwise leaving hose in place (just gently push it aside while unloading battery and loading new one). Likewise, when the new battery is installed, hose just pushes back onto the new battery's vent port. Make sure it is on all the way.
Disconnect red battery cable first, and tuck it away so it won't spring back and touch the wrong place. Then the other one. Then swap old battery for new. Reinstall cables in reverse order. Put some dielectric grease over the battery cable bolts right before screwing them in. Just a dab; and spread it over the threads a bit. This keeps moisture out of these important electrical connections. You can buy a tiny tube of it (about four inches long) at local auto parts store.
Don't over-torque retainer bolt during reinstall. Don't want to break the plastic. It should be firm, but does not need to be super-tight. Note how tight it is during removal and try to match that.
Pay attention to inner seat belts when reinstalling seat, so they don't wind up underneath it. Position seat down and rearward, then push down firmly along the front. A gentle tug upward will tell if it's locked in or not. You might have to try it 2-3 times before you figure it out, if you've never done it before.
The seat just lifts out (grab from underside of front edge). You might have to give it a firm jerk. Don't be shy -- you can't hurt it. It just lifts out.
The breather hose just pulls off. If you are careful, you can remove battery while otherwise leaving hose in place (just gently push it aside while unloading battery and loading new one). Likewise, when the new battery is installed, hose just pushes back onto the new battery's vent port. Make sure it is on all the way.
Disconnect red battery cable first, and tuck it away so it won't spring back and touch the wrong place. Then the other one. Then swap old battery for new. Reinstall cables in reverse order. Put some dielectric grease over the battery cable bolts right before screwing them in. Just a dab; and spread it over the threads a bit. This keeps moisture out of these important electrical connections. You can buy a tiny tube of it (about four inches long) at local auto parts store.
Don't over-torque retainer bolt during reinstall. Don't want to break the plastic. It should be firm, but does not need to be super-tight. Note how tight it is during removal and try to match that.
Pay attention to inner seat belts when reinstalling seat, so they don't wind up underneath it. Position seat down and rearward, then push down firmly along the front. A gentle tug upward will tell if it's locked in or not. You might have to try it 2-3 times before you figure it out, if you've never done it before.
Ken W. has it backwards - the negative (black) battery cable is always removed first. This prevents a short-circuit in the event that the wrench being used to loosen the positive connection makes contact with a part of the frame.
Likewise, on re-installation, the negative cable is re-connected last.
Also, don't forget to apply grease to the cable ends themselves, as that's what actually conducts the current, and is susceptible to an interruption in conduction due to corrosion.
Likewise, on re-installation, the negative cable is re-connected last.
Also, don't forget to apply grease to the cable ends themselves, as that's what actually conducts the current, and is susceptible to an interruption in conduction due to corrosion.
I stand corrected on the cable order. Black is first.
There is no need to worry about key fobs here. You do not have to do anything. They will not be affected. Maybe on other cars, but not a Buick Lucerne or other GM cars built on the same platform (early 2000's Bonneville, LeSabre, Aurora, Delta-88, Park Avenue, Riviera, Cadillac DTS).
The cables are threaded and do not clamp onto battery posts. They screw in. Put the dielectric grease on the threads.
There is no need to worry about key fobs here. You do not have to do anything. They will not be affected. Maybe on other cars, but not a Buick Lucerne or other GM cars built on the same platform (early 2000's Bonneville, LeSabre, Aurora, Delta-88, Park Avenue, Riviera, Cadillac DTS).
The cables are threaded and do not clamp onto battery posts. They screw in. Put the dielectric grease on the threads.
Originally Posted By: Ken_W
The cables are threaded and do not clamp onto battery posts. They screw in. Put the dielectric grease on the threads.
Correct - it's a side-terminal batt.
Grease needs to be applied not only to the bolts, but also to the cable end rings as well. This is best accomplished by removing the bolt, then slipping the rubber boot off the cable end, revealing something that looks like this:
As I said above, those rings on the cable ends are the primary part that conducts current. The bolts just hold the rings against the battery terminals.
Both the bolts and the cable ends are steel, and very susceptible to corrosion from leaked battery acid and fumes, so they all need to be greased.
The cables are threaded and do not clamp onto battery posts. They screw in. Put the dielectric grease on the threads.
Correct - it's a side-terminal batt.
Grease needs to be applied not only to the bolts, but also to the cable end rings as well. This is best accomplished by removing the bolt, then slipping the rubber boot off the cable end, revealing something that looks like this:
As I said above, those rings on the cable ends are the primary part that conducts current. The bolts just hold the rings against the battery terminals.
Both the bolts and the cable ends are steel, and very susceptible to corrosion from leaked battery acid and fumes, so they all need to be greased.
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