Lifter squeak.... Any reccomendations??

[NTrails]

The wife drives a 1998 Ford Exploder 5.0L V8, AWD. A few months back she complains that the engine is "Ticking" alot, esp. on cold starts. Also, the lovely Ford Oil Pressure IDIOT gauge likes to dance up and down alot, esp. at the stop at the bottom of our steep hill. Upon checking out the vehicle, I find there's next to NO OIL in the crankcase, and the lifters (esp. on the passenger side) are "Ticking" as loud as a broken con-rod!! I fill it with the recommended 5W-30 GTX as it was on sale at the 'Zone.
Well, the Ticking was immediately quelched, but one lifter still likes to give off a li'l "Chirp"... Usually it's limited to cold starts (Northern California, so nothing extremely cold) but sometimes even when she pulls up at the house after 20-30 mile drive it's still barely audible.
I am aware that the damage has been done and that lifter is scorn and should inevitably be replaced... and this vehicle gets atrocious fuel mileage (always has, always will!)... I just have gotta believe that the squeaking has GOT TO BE causing even more wear on that scorn lifter (or its bore).
My question is twofold: First, what oil strategy/brand(s) will quiet up the squeaky lifter going forward? And secondly, what oil strategy (other than not running the motor with NO OIL in it!!) will minimize any further damage from occurring? The motor has never had full synthetic in it, and lived fora few years on Chevron Oil Changer's blend of choice ("...because they have a nice waiting room, and the manager gives me a glass of wine on the side.."!!). I was thinking the high Moly of a PYB might help... or mebbe the MS5000... then I start thinking too much about it!!
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... doing a search for "lifter noise" and "squeaky lifter" turned up nothing.

Thank you in advance, and I'm awaiting your reply,

NTrails

 

[SuperDave456]

One: When anyone who is related to you says "My engine is ticking". Don't wait months before checking the oil. Especially if that individual is female and you care about them and their vehicle.

Two: You need to figure out how much oil it is eating, and why. Bad PCV valve? Stuck oil rings? Perhaps it is something you can fix, or maybe you just have to deal with it.

Three: For the time being I'd go with a High Mileage oil. Better additives for engines that have a bit of wear going on. I'd also stick to a 3,000 mile OCI for at least the next 2 oil changes. Running out of oil will burn the existing oil left behind, which pretty much causes a layer of heavy varnish and sludge to build. The HM oil will help with this.

Four: If it drinks oil, just start using the cheapest stuff you can find that has a API donut, and start thinking about heavier weights, like 5w40 in a HM flavor.

 

[CourierDriver]

IMHO, when all in here fails, take it to a shop,,pleaseeee.

 

[CharlieW618]

For a squeak I would suspect a rocker arm before I would a lifter.

 

[toneydoc]

SuperDave made very good points. Good advice. I thought we were supposed to check oil level at every fill up. Or at least every other fill up and bring it to suggested appropriate level. Too late for that but you can start doing that now. I would personally do two short OCI with Valvoline Max Life. And then continue with good high mileage oils with reasonable OCI.

 

[LeakySeals]

How long have you been running Castrol GTX?

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
One: When anyone who is related to you says "My engine is ticking". Don't wait months before checking the oil. Especially if that individual is female and you care about them and their vehicle.

Two: You need to figure out how much oil it is eating, and why. Bad PCV valve? Stuck oil rings? Perhaps it is something you can fix, or maybe you just have to deal with it.

Three: For the time being I'd go with a High Mileage oil. Better additives for engines that have a bit of wear going on. I'd also stick to a 3,000 mile OCI for at least the next 2 oil changes. Running out of oil will burn the existing oil left behind, which pretty much causes a layer of heavy varnish and sludge to build. The HM oil will help with this.

Four: If it drinks oil, just start using the cheapest stuff you can find that has a API donut, and start thinking about heavier weights, like 5w40 in a HM flavor.



Agree with SuperDave's advice.

 

[DrDusty86]

The damage is done. Stick a fork in it. Just keep the oil topped off and run it. It may start to use oil at an extremely high rate now because it was run very very low.

 

[bigt61]

A couple of 3000 mile OCI as noted above - MaxLife is good - still $5 off at Walmart (Printable Coupons). 5W-30 or maybe even 10W-40 until you get oil consumption under control. Check the PCV valve.

 

[NTrails]

The PCV valve appears fine... it rattles when shaken and with the engine running and the oil fill open, a piece of paper pulsates on the opening. If it were consuming oil thru the PCV, wouldn't there be other signs of burning oil? i.e. sooty tailpipe area, smoky exhaust, rougher running, smelly exhaust?? None of these symptoms are present with the vehicle. I have had vehicles in the past that just "consumed" oil (an '88 Integra comes to mind). I always thought that those engines just vaporized oil on the outsides of the cylinder walls due to inherent design issues and exceptionally high piston speed. Not that this Ford 5.0 should fall into any of those specific categories...

I'm fairly certain it's not leaking oil, as there is no evidence of leaks on the vehicle or in the parking stall. It's not obviously burning oil; i.e. it's not smoking, smelly, and it passes California SMOG with flying colors. I'm resigned to believe it is just "consuming" oil... at what rate I'll determine. She does keep a fuel log book in the car... I just gotta get her to check the oil every other fillup. I went and added a field on every other upcoming line in the little book in the glove box, so there's no "I forgot" excuses gonna fly!!