1958 235 chevy

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i have a 1958 235 chevy that was rebuild in the fall, after the rebuild i went with straight 30w , and now i am due for a oil change ( i have no filter, and want to change often ) what should i go back with going into the summer heat , i was told to go with 20w 50 and go back to 10w 30 for winter ,, what do you guys say ???
thanks
 
Originally Posted By: lilrobo
what about synthetic oil yes or no ????


Not needed because you're changing often,above suggestions
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that's what i was talking about using the shop oil and changing that often ,, so is synthetic oil ok to use ?? or just forget it and use 10w30 ?? lol

thanks
 
Beautiful engine, have one in my old plow truck, but I have a filter (its a 62) and can't remeber what oil is in it, its been a few years
 
Since this engine is rebuilt, I'd run something close to what was originally recommended, and that sure wasn't 20W-50, a grade that didn't even exist when this engine was new.
GM probably called for a straight 30 for warm weather and a straight 20 for cold weather.
A multigrade 10W-30 should work fine.
Do not use a non-detergent oil unless you want to sludge up your newly rebuilt engine in short order, although I did know folks back in the day who used only non-detergent 30 in their VWs (which also lacked oil filters) and claimed good results.
They also did 1K changes on regularly driven cars and were pretty much guaranteed the need for a rebuild by 100K anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Since this engine is rebuilt, I'd run something close to what was originally recommended, and that sure wasn't 20W-50, a grade that didn't even exist when this engine was new.
GM probably called for a straight 30 for warm weather and a straight 20 for cold weather.
A multigrade 10W-30 should work fine.
Do not use a non-detergent oil unless you want to sludge up your newly rebuilt engine in short order, although I did know folks back in the day who used only non-detergent 30 in their VWs (which also lacked oil filters) and claimed good results.
They also did 1K changes on regularly driven cars and were pretty much guaranteed the need for a rebuild by 100K anyway.


Hence the reason for a non-detergent oil. Would you rather have that sludge in your pan and valve cover, (which on this old a motor, you're suppose to remove and clean on a regular basis), or would you rather all that sludge be flowing around all your bearings, cylinder walls, rings, etc. as there is no filter to filter out all the stuff that normally gets filtered out in a more modern motor with a filter.

My first truck was a '58 Chevy Apache with the 235 six and no oil filter. My uncle gave it to me and impressed upon me the necessity of using only a non-detergent oil.
 
Your uncle may have impressed this upon you, but I don't think you'll find much agreement among knowledgeable owners of older vehicles.
The oil is intended to suspend debris too small to be caught by the oil filter, and some current Japanese OEM oil filters are little more than rock catchers.
Any really large debris will end up in the bottom of the pan or be caught by the screen on the pickup.
Detergent oil will not caused increased wear.
I'll put it to you this way.
If this were my engine, I'd not be using non-detergent oil.
The sludge doesn't just build up where you can easily get to it.
Better oils are a major, maybe the major reason that engines live longer today than they ever could when the OP's stovebolt six was new.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Your uncle may have impressed this upon you, but I don't think you'll find much agreement among knowledgeable owners of older vehicles.
The oil is intended to suspend debris too small to be caught by the oil filter, and some current Japanese OEM oil filters are little more than rock catchers.
Any really large debris will end up in the bottom of the pan or be caught by the screen on the pickup.
Detergent oil will not caused increased wear.
I'll put it to you this way.
If this were my engine, I'd not be using non-detergent oil.
The sludge doesn't just build up where you can easily get to it.
Better oils are a major, maybe the major reason that engines live longer today than they ever could when the OP's stovebolt six was new.


Agreed, oils have come a long way since those old six bangers came out, but so have motors themselves. The difference here is between carbs and fuel injection, between electronic ignition and points and condenser, between a pressurized oil system and the old splash system, (at least my 58 still had the "dippers."). Metals alloys are better and clearances are much tighter.

I do find it interesting the rebuilder recommended a heavy oil while most modern engines recommend a light oil (5W20 for example). I would guess that if a 5W20 were used in this engine, it would consume the oil at a much higher rate. That tells me clearances are greater than a more modern engine and thus you would have more "blow by" and contamination of the oil which in turn would float around rather than settle.

In addition to my old '47 Case tractor, (which does have a filter), I also have a 1933 Case Model "C" tractor that my Dad and I rebuilt when I was a senior in High School. We've always run non-detergent and periodically pull the valve cover as well as remove the inspection plates on the pan, (there are two on either side) and clean the inside of the motor. In addition, the oil screen can be removed from the outside of the engine and according to the owners manual should be cleaned every 250 hours. It doesn't get much use other than shows and such, but stays pretty clean.

The motor on the truck I had had been rebuilt by my Uncle at 65,000 miles, (pretty common in those days). When I got it, it had 118,000 miles and burned about a quart of oil every 500 miles. I would be curious to see if the rebuilt 235 would go longer with detergent oil.

I know you disagree and that's cool, but I'm a firm believer in using the oil the motor was designed to use - just my humble two cents worth
smile.gif
 
The engines were designed with a viscosity in mind.
They were not designed specifically to be run without detergency, since that concept is somewhat new, relative to old iron.
Another thing to keep in mind is that a non-detergent oil has no additives at all.
It doesn't lack only detergency.
It lacks everything else that makes an oil perform adequately in use.
Nothing wrong with carbs or ignition points, either.
I prefered them for their simplicity, and in an engine started and used for a number of miles, they didn't have any detrimental effect on engine life.
Too bad there has been nothing since the 'eighties without both FI and electronic ignition.
WRT alloys, any old iron engine was better able to endure hardship than is any current alloy engine.
You could badly overheat an old iron Chevy without harm.
Try that with an all alloy Honda.
We may be on opposite sides of the same page.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The engines were designed with a viscosity in mind.
They were not designed specifically to be run without detergency, since that concept is somewhat new, relative to old iron.
Another thing to keep in mind is that a non-detergent oil has no additives at all.
It doesn't lack only detergency.
It lacks everything else that makes an oil perform adequately in use.
Nothing wrong with carbs or ignition points, either.
I prefered them for their simplicity, and in an engine started and used for a number of miles, they didn't have any detrimental effect on engine life.
Too bad there has been nothing since the 'eighties without both FI and electronic ignition.
WRT alloys, any old iron engine was better able to endure hardship than is any current alloy engine.
You could badly overheat an old iron Chevy without harm.
Try that with an all alloy Honda.
We may be on opposite sides of the same page.


Agreed - I could tell you a story about overheating a Chevy V-8 that would turn your hair white - maybe that's the reason I'm losing my hair - but it was one heck of a ride
smile.gif
 
My hair is already white.
Maybe you could turn it its original very dark brown?
I haven't had that color since I turned thirty, a few moons back.
 
We had an early 1950s Chev at the farm. It did have a cartridge filter. I was too young at the time to notice whether it was an add on, an OEM option, or what. We did run 10w-30 conventional PCMO in the thing. It never saw a straight weight for as long as multigrade was available.
 
What you should have done was had your engine set up for a full flow remote oil filter system when you had it rebuilt. I had my 235 in my 57 Chevy pick up set up that way. Very common set up. I had 350,000 miles on it when it was sold.
 
Quote:
Non-detergent 30 weight. Since you have no filter, the detergent oil will keep particles in suspension and increase engine wear.


Whether you have a filter or not, you want a detergent oil in order to keep the particles in suspension and not agglomerate.

Use PYB 10W30 or 10W40 or one of the Amalie products.

Quote:
The engines were designed with a viscosity in mind.
They were not designed specifically to be run without detergency, since that concept is somewhat new, relative to old iron.
Another thing to keep in mind is that a non-detergent oil has no additives at all.
It doesn't lack only detergency.
It lacks everything else that makes an oil perform adequately in use.


ABsolutely. You want an oil with a full PI package.
 
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