Adjusting camber on a 1995 Chevy K2500?

[Finn]

Hello.

This is the truck:

I just put new Hankook Dynapro RF10 tyres on

What I would need to know whether the camber is adjustable in original state?

I ask this because I have received some contradictory information on the subject, for example from the guy who is supposed to do the 4 wheel alignment. He says that there is a drilled hole (in the frame?) that should be modified oval to allow adjustment. As far as I can tell the upper control arms have bolts and eccentric washers which should allow the adjustment.

Can you comment on this or should we just take it apart and have a look by ourselves?

 

[artificialist]

Sometimes those trucks leave the factory with non-adjustable UCA bolts. In those cases, you have to buy eccentric cams for the UCAs and then do an adjustment.

You do not have to widen any bolt holes to make adjustments.

 

[DuckRyder]

It has been a while...

But it varied from year to year and sometimes plant to plant if I recall correctly.

The first ones came without eccentric bolts and without the knock outs for the slots in the frame removed. Some came with eccentrics installed and without the knockouts removed and some came adjustable.

It may only have slots on one side of each bracket and the knockouts still in place on the other side (probably the front side). The knockouts are not a picnic to remove, and there is actually a tool for it.

PICTURES

BTW, I do not agree that the presence of eccentric bolts indicates adjustability, I've seen many trucks that came with the eccentrics, yet were not adjustable until the knockouts were removed.

At least that is the way I recall it and I was out of the dealership by 93 so a 95 could differ.

 

[yonyon]

I'm pretty sure DuckRyder is correct. If you try to turn the cam bolt and it won't go, the knockouts are still there.

If it's a concern, you can try moving the bolts yourself beforehand. If they move you know the knockouts are gone and you can just put things back close to where they were and still drive it to the alignment shop.

If it isn't adjustable you can remove the knockouts yourself before getting the alignment done. A chisel works if you don't want to buy a special tool for a one-time use. I'm a cheap-o and go the chisel route, but that's using a long air chisel, so it's a bit less work than if you're going to be doing it with a manual hammer.

 

[Finn]

Huge thanks to you, gentlemen! Now it all makes sense.

Judging by the look of the bolts we will take them apart for cleaning/lubricating and at the same time we will see if the knockouts are still there and remove them. This may come a sweet handling truck after all.

 

[asand1]

What condition are the a arm bushings in?

 

[Finn]

Originally Posted By: asand1
What condition are the a arm bushings in?

That is unfrtunately unknown at this point. We are taking it apart on Sunday and we'll see.

The alignment shop does have this info but out of curiosity:

I have seen some source mention 0.25 degrees of positive camber for these cars. Is that really so?

Do your books possibly list values for camber, caster and toe-in you could list here, please?

 

[artificialist]

Towards the end of this document, the 2000-92 C and K series is covered. That is where you will find the correct alignment angles:
Alignment specs for GMC and Chevy trucks

Camber: Min -.5 max +1.5
Caster: Min 1 Max 5
Toe: Min .06 Max .44

So having a camber of +.25 is okay.

 

[Finn]

Thank you!