Opinion on when to replace PCV valve on old civic

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Based on all the car history I have from the previous owner from 83,000km up to currently at 128k. Everything has been done at the dealership, but I cannot find any records of the PCV valve being replaced on this D16Y8 engine.

I am in a sort of dilemma, because I recently just had oil changed at 127.5k, but now that I read more on PCV valve and the importance of it, I realized this didn't seem to have been changed. The valve is right above the oil filter and from my research, many people suggest doing it during oil changes as it is easier to replace when the oil filter is off.

Prior to the oil change, I did check the oil and after 2500km, it was quite dirty and I believe some was burnt, but that's probably due to the short trip nature that the car experience. However, now I am debating if I should strictly go to mechanic to have the PCV valve changed now(Car is at a condo so I cannot do work on it) or wait till car reach around 130k for its next oil change which is I would say, another half a year away.

What would you do?
Thanks all.
 
Wait until the next oil change. The PCV valve is touted a bit highly as something that needs to get replaced on BITOG. I've never taken one off that failed the shake test when I would blindly replace them per my BITOG reading.
 
Change it at your next OCI. It is at the top of the black breather box right above your oil filter so close below the intake manifold that you cannot get it from another angle.

Find a place you can put your car up on ramps to change the oil, and buy a nice PCV replacement. Then get ready for a lot of cussing and weird maneuvers to get the valve out and replace it with another (ask me how I know), I would bet on it being plugged since the PCV design on the D16Y(x) is not the best.
 
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Change it at your next OCI. It is at the top of the black breather box right above your oil filter so close below the intake manifold that you cannot get it from another angle.

Find a place you can put your car up on ramps to change the oil, and buy a nice PCV replacement. Then get ready for a lot of cussing and weird maneuvers to get the valve out and replace it with another (ask me how I know), I would bet on it being plugged since the PCV design on the D16Y(x) is not the best.


Thanks for the suggestion. I heard that it's very easy to break apart the PCV. Is there any tips on not doing so?

Originally Posted By: default
Dont forget a new grommet if applicable.


I looked up on PCV valve and in the end I think I might have to bent over and take the $20+ price that dealership charges for OEM. Don't these come with a new grommet?
 
Make sure you are grabbing the base of the PCV valve and not the neck, and try to spray around the seal with penetrating lubricant to help free it because it will probably be really stuck in there like the 2 I have changed.

There also may not be a 90 degree bend in your PCV valve depending on what PCV part# it was replaced with during the 75k? (not sure the exact service mileage) it was replaced at if it was done at all.

You do not NEED a new grommet, mine was fine with over 200k on the motor. Don't spend $20 on the OEM, just go buy a PCV valve from your FLAPS for $3 and change it more often; it wont be hard to do again after you pry out this old past due OEM one.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brenden
Make sure you are grabbing the base of the PCV valve and not the neck, and try to spray around the seal with penetrating lubricant to help free it because it will probably be really stuck in there like the 2 I have changed.

There also may not be a 90 degree bend in your PCV valve depending on what PCV part# it was replaced with during the 75k? (not sure the exact service mileage) it was replaced at if it was done at all.

You do not NEED a new grommet, mine was fine with over 200k on the motor. Don't spend $20 on the OEM, just go buy a PCV valve from your FLAPS for $3 and change it more often; it wont be hard to do again after you pry out this old past due OEM one.


Thanks.

From the service manual, it looks like the non-vtec Y7 has the 90 degree bend PCV while the Y8 with the vtec has the straight valve.

I believe the service interval for the PCV was set at 60k, but like I said. I did not find any records that it was replaced starting from 83K.

I am wondering, what's the difference in service interval of OEM vs aftermarket. I don't have AZ or AAP up here, so I can only resort to NAPA, CARQUEST or Canadian Tire for aftermarket.
 
AFAIK you can use either PCV valve, just depends on who replaced it and what valve they grabbed first I guess.

There are just too many variables to say if a OEM PCV valve will really last longer. Considering Honda uses "aftermarket" brand parts from Gates and Honeywell (Fram) but relabel them as "Genuine Honda" with a 50% higher price, I would not lose sleep over it.
 
IMO when it comes to PCV valve replacement, one doesn`t wait. Just do it ASAP and start fresh. Your engine oil (engine) will thank you for it.

Q.
 
I just changed them in my cars and I wished I did them earlier. The old ones were still o.k. in my wife's car and my personal car, but the one in our 06' Odyssey was a mess. It had old oil stuck all over it and failed the shake test. It definitely wasn't working properly anymore. I bought the car with 115,000 miles on it and went 15,000 before finding out about the importance of PCV valves.
 
^ I heard this theory and tested it on my girlfriend's Sebring, in which we just changed the PCV Valve. The valve was far too coated in grime and gook for any kind of brake cleaner to get through - just spend the $4 to $11 dollars on the new valve. All things considered, it is one of the cheapest car maintenance jobs out there.

I would recommend to go ahead and change it now. If you are already having oil problems, the PCV Valve could help as a remedy.
 
Just replace it now and don't worry. Just because it may pass the shake test does not mean that the spring inside has not fatigued.

Also, now is a good time to replace the pcv hose as well.
 
^^^ yes...arti is right....as are those who remind OP that at under $10 it's a cheap fix...mine got replaced @ 8yrs/100k miles.

As for the hose...when replacing my PCV valve I notices that my hose had become brittle-rock hard at each end and was easily cracked so it got replaced too...(also a cheap fix @ $12)
 
Exactly. Just because the shake test works and they aren't clogged doesn't mean they're working right. Ask me how I know this.
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