'07 Ford 6.0L diesel oil?

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Recently picked up a 2007 Ford F550 with the 6.0L diesel, and I need to do an oil change. Mileage just hit 80k, but I am not sure what the previous owner was using. I will likely go ahead and do an oil analysis, as it would be interesting to see the results.

Temps here in Georgia are relatively mild in the winter, with lows rarely getting below 20* or so. Highs will top 100* in the summer, but average mainly in the 90s. My previous diesel was a 12v Cummins 5.9L, and I ran Rotella 15-40HD diesel oil without any trouble. Is the 6.0L Ford diesel more sensitive to oil selection, or can I get away with using regular dino based 15-40HD oil (Valvoline, Delo, Rotella, etc)?
 
Similar temps here and I've used 15w40 Delo and Delvac in the 6.0 550 I service. No uoa or nothing but this truck has a dump body and is always loaded and or pulling heavy trailers and these oils seem to do the job.
Takes 3.75 gallons (15 qts).
 
I also have an '07, and prior to my current truck had an '04 6.0 that I bought new also, so I have been in the 6.0 "business" since early '04.
I have had the best results with 10w-30 per UOA. I started running 10w-30 several years ago at approx. 80,000 mi., and currently have 172,500 mi., trouble-free.

My oil of preference is John Deere Plus 50 II 10w-30, but there are several different choices available in this viscosity.
 
Do yourself a favor and use ONLY the Motorcraft oil filter (with the correct OEM cap) and Motorcraft fuel filters (there are two). Get an 08 trans pan and 08 filter. And there is a small bypass trans filter on the lower right side of radiator. On oil, do not go much beyond 5000 mile intervals. And I recommend Rotella synthetic 5W-40. Otherwise Rotella semi syn 10W-30 (there is a conventional 10w-30 also). It's OUTSTANDING in the 6.0L. Cold or hot. My 6.0L ran like crud on DELO 400 dino 15w-40.....and I loved it in my former Dodges. You can't beat Rotella syn in the PSD 6.0L for the money.

6.0s shear the snot out of oil...and fast. And the HIGH pressure oil pump and unitized hydraulic fuel injection system will thank you for treating them right. It's important to remember that crankcase oil is also the injection system hydraulic oil. Totally different than anything else. And oil can affect how it runs in a BIG way.

And ONLY use Mercon SP in the trans. Available at OReilly by ordering. I wouldn't mess with LV like they say you can use now.
 
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Originally Posted By: neilLB7
Do yourself a favor and use ONLY the Motorcraft oil filter (with the correct OEM cap) and Motorcraft fuel filters (there are two). Get an 08 trans pan and 08 filter. And there is a small bypass trans filter on the lower right side of radiator. On oil, do not go much beyond 5000 mile intervals. And I recommend Rotella synthetic 5W-40. Otherwise Rotella semi syn 10W-30 (there is a conventional 10w-30 also). It's OUTSTANDING in the 6.0L. Cold or hot. My 6.0L ran like crud on DELO 400 dino 15w-40.....and I loved it in my former Dodges. You can't beat Rotella syn in the PSD 6.0L for the money.

6.0s shear the snot out of oil...and fast. And the HIGH pressure oil pump and unitized hydraulic fuel injection system will thank you for treating them right. It's important to remember that crankcase oil is also the injection system hydraulic oil. Totally different than anything else. And oil can affect how it runs in a BIG way.

And ONLY use Mercon SP in the trans. Available at OReilly by ordering. I wouldn't mess with LV like they say you can use now.


While I do agree with using only Motorcraft/Racor filters, I haven't seen the need of the larger transmission pan available on the '08 and up trucks. These trucks have more than adequate cooling circuits and transmission issues/failures are almost non-existent.

The only time(s) I have ever seen an 5,000mi. OCI needed was when I used the Shell T6 5w-40. I am not bashing the product, but it didn't hold up in my application. The results came back and I was shocked at the results, increased wear,and lower viscosity than what the 10w-30 was after 7,500mi. OCI.

The shearing of the oil really isn't that big of a deal in the 6.0, as long as it doesn't shear below the lower limit of 30wt. The 6.0 just seems to prefer a 30wt. vs. a 40wt., if you don't feed it 30wt. it will make it on its own, whereas the 10w-30 doesn't seem to shear much at all.

I will note that prior to me switching to 10w-30 I had three consectitive runs of 5w-40, and prior to that I run nothing but the John Deere Plus 50 15w-40 for years. My UOA results showed it to shear, but never out of grade like some of the results I have seen posted here. With my current '07 and my previous '04 I never experienced any oil related injector issues.

For whatever reason it just didn't hold up for me, where the 10w-30 is fine at 7,500 OCI and per UOA could be pushed out farther. I choose to stay within the owners manual recommendation of 7,500 mi., but I do UOA every OC to keep an eye on my engine.
At one OC I did catch an leaking o-ring with increased fuel in the oil, so the extra thirteen dollars every oil change are worth it to me.

Lube choice is important with the 6.0, but I have always went the manufacturers 7,500mi. OCI without issue.
 
I concur with what roadrunner1 has stated.

I have not owned a 6.0, but I have several friends that do, and I've followed their oil endeavors closely.

The HEUI prefers a thinner 30 grade; you can either feed it one or it will make one for you out of a 40 grade. And that shearing gets way overblown as far as its importance. I've not seen any real correlation of wear to shearing in statistical analysis. 30 grades shear much less, if at all. And neither seems to result in any real escalation of wear rates.

As for the OCI duration, that's up to the individual. The only way to get your ROI is to push out the lube to it's point of payback, regardless of base stock. One can certainly use a synthetic, but you'll have to extend out the OCI or it's not worth the expense.

Of all the 6.0L problems, I don't see lube choice being nearly as important as dealing with the oil-cooler/EGR related issues.
 
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Originally Posted By: neilLB7
Do yourself a favor and use ONLY the Motorcraft oil filter (with the correct OEM cap) and Motorcraft fuel filters (there are two). Get an 08 trans pan and 08 filter. And there is a small bypass trans filter on the lower right side of radiator. On oil, do not go much beyond 5000 mile intervals. And I recommend Rotella synthetic 5W-40. Otherwise Rotella semi syn 10W-30 (there is a conventional 10w-30 also). It's OUTSTANDING in the 6.0L. Cold or hot. My 6.0L ran like crud on DELO 400 dino 15w-40.....and I loved it in my former Dodges. You can't beat Rotella syn in the PSD 6.0L for the money.

6.0s shear the snot out of oil...and fast. And the HIGH pressure oil pump and unitized hydraulic fuel injection system will thank you for treating them right. It's important to remember that crankcase oil is also the injection system hydraulic oil. Totally different than anything else. And oil can affect how it runs in a BIG way.

And ONLY use Mercon SP in the trans. Available at OReilly by ordering. I wouldn't mess with LV like they say you can use now.


While I do agree with using only Motorcraft/Racor filters, I haven't seen the need of the larger transmission pan available on the '08 and up trucks. These trucks have more than adequate cooling circuits and transmission issues/failures are almost non-existent.

The only time(s) I have ever seen an 5,000mi. OCI needed was when I used the Shell T6 5w-40. I am not bashing the product, but it didn't hold up in my application. The results came back and I was shocked at the results, increased wear,and lower viscosity than what the 10w-30 was after 7,500mi. OCI.

The shearing of the oil really isn't that big of a deal in the 6.0, as long as it doesn't shear below the lower limit of 30wt. The 6.0 just seems to prefer a 30wt. vs. a 40wt., if you don't feed it 30wt. it will make it on its own, whereas the 10w-30 doesn't seem to shear much at all.

I will note that prior to me switching to 10w-30 I had three consectitive runs of 5w-40, and prior to that I run nothing but the John Deere Plus 50 15w-40 for years. My UOA results showed it to shear, but never out of grade like some of the results I have seen posted here. With my current '07 and my previous '04 I never experienced any oil related injector issues.

For whatever reason it just didn't hold up for me, where the 10w-30 is fine at 7,500 OCI and per UOA could be pushed out farther. I choose to stay within the owners manual recommendation of 7,500 mi., but I do UOA every OC to keep an eye on my engine.
At one OC I did catch an leaking o-ring with increased fuel in the oil, so the extra thirteen dollars every oil change are worth it to me.

Lube choice is important with the 6.0, but I have always went the manufacturers 7,500mi. OCI without issue.


I see so much talking up of the T-6 but every time I used it the conventional rotella outperformed it. It's a neutered version of an hdeo made to extend the life of emissions equipment. The t-5 semi-syn and the conventional are superior in the wear department but may not last as long in actual service.
I now buy rotella conventional by the 5 gallon pail. I use it in everything in the summertime. From my bikes to my equipment my roi with that oil is stellar. The t-6 at double the cost for basically the same oci just empties my wallet faster.
Just my experience,others may have great luck with it,or think they are.
 
Originally Posted By: neilLB7
Do yourself a favor and use ONLY the Motorcraft oil filter (with the correct OEM cap) and Motorcraft fuel filters (there are two). Get an 08 trans pan and 08 filter. And there is a small bypass trans filter on the lower right side of radiator. On oil, do not go much beyond 5000 mile intervals. And I recommend Rotella synthetic 5W-40. Otherwise Rotella semi syn 10W-30 (there is a conventional 10w-30 also). It's OUTSTANDING in the 6.0L. Cold or hot. My 6.0L ran like crud on DELO 400 dino 15w-40.....and I loved it in my former Dodges. You can't beat Rotella syn in the PSD 6.0L for the money.

6.0s shear the snot out of oil...and fast. And the HIGH pressure oil pump and unitized hydraulic fuel injection system will thank you for treating them right. It's important to remember that crankcase oil is also the injection system hydraulic oil. Totally different than anything else. And oil can affect how it runs in a BIG way.

And ONLY use Mercon SP in the trans. Available at OReilly by ordering. I wouldn't mess with LV like they say you can use now.


And for the love of all... make sure its got the "upgraded" (to something that makes sense!) coolant pressure cap on it. That one little part has hastened the death of way too many 6.0 powerstrokes.

In fact, make sure the whole cooling system is really healthy. The EGR cooler puts a lot of heat into the coolant and is also responsible for a lot of trouble, especially when it makes a weak pressure cap dump coolant overboard periodically.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
And if you can get away with it, delete the EGR.


Amen.

And you're close enough to make use of this guy's services should you need it. I think there are a lot of people out there who wish there were someone who had that intimate knowledge and was equally willing to share it for Duramax and Cummins engines. But then they don't NEED a guy like this quite so much... ;-/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmbndDDR0NI


Disclaimer: I don't know him, don't know his company... just impressed at someone who makes his living accumulating this kind of knowledge, but is also willing to share it, rather than be secretive.
 
My fiance owns a 2003 Ford Superduty with the 6.0 diesel that she bought new. Truck has always run 10W-30 Motorcraft diesel oil and a Motorcraft oil filter. Truck has 79,000 miles on it with no problems. She does 5,000 mile changes or one year changes since she doesn't drive this truck much anymore.

Wayne
 
I ran Mobil 1 TDT 5w40. Used International fuel and oil filters. Changed the fuel filters and oil at the same time at 15,000km OCI. I also removed the EGR cooler, machined plugs and welded then in, that will keep the enviro people off your back cause it's still there
wink.gif


But please do your self a favor and remain with Ford or International for your filters. Both of them manufacture their filters with a sealing o ring on the primary fuel filter... Fram does not... as many other brands do not...

Also take it to your local shop if you don't posses a scan tool that will give an oil temp reading. The oil temp should not exceed 10-15 deg above the coolant temp. The cooler plugs and leads to cooler failures amongst others...

They are an excellent engine if they are maintained. As far as transmission issues go? 308,000 kms and never been touched. I've only replaced one at the shop, due to some one parking on a jersey wall and breaking the case
smile.gif
 
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