Harbor Freight torque wrench Fail.

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RE: Gallon of water? What was the method of assuring that you actually got exactly one gallon of water? You know where I am going with this, right??
 
We charge $35 for a 1/2" or 3/8" or 1/4" click or dial torque wrench. Call: Testwave Calibration Laboratory, 1515 Greg Street, Sparks, NV 89431 775-356-8378. The price includes adjustment (if possible).
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
RE: Gallon of water? What was the method of assuring that you actually got exactly one gallon of water? You know where I am going with this, right??
4 cup measuring cup. Ghetto I know, but Like I said, accurate enough.
 
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Overkill admitted, in private email, he does in fact want me to stop posting because he thinks I'm unqualified to opine. Which is funny. Because he's a "network engineer" which has nothing whatsoever to do with mechanical devices.


I told you to read more, post less. Which I've said in public numerous times to you. I didn't instruct to you to stop posting altogether, in fact I encouraged you to post more on subjects that you were knowledgeable about. And it was you who initiated the PM back and forth because you think that because I take issue with your posts that it must mean I hate you. Which is ridiculous.

In reference to myself:

I have 20+ years of mechanical experience with engines. Just because my career choice isn't automotive mechanics doesn't mean I haven't done it as a hobby.
 
I guess I am not making myself very clear. How do you know the 4 cup measuring cup is accurate? It is a cooking utensil and not certified lab instrument, correct?

Anybody willing to send their $10 torque wrench to be calibrated for $35?
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I guess I am not making myself very clear. How do you know the 4 cup measuring cup is accurate? It is a cooking utensil and not certified lab instrument, correct?

Anybody willing to send their $10 torque wrench to be calibrated for $35?


Nah, it’s probably me not making myself clear. The measuring cups used in conjunction with fish scale were within a couple of ounces of each other, this gave me confidence to us the jugs or the fish scale. First, I checked to torque wrenches with water jugs attached but this clunky. I next tried the fish scale, better but you do get a variation because of the human element of the pull. I next went and picked the torque adapter and started to play with that. After many attempts with the fish scale and the water I was convinced that it (tq adapter)was more accurate than I had the ability to check. Now having confidence in the tq adapter I verified the accuracy of the hf wrenches and recalibrated the husky.

Not laboratory conditions to say the least but, accurate enough to verify the torque wrenches imo. If/when I torque something critical I verify me setting with the adapter


Edit: I used a different color verison of this :http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mustad-50-lb-Digital-Scale/16563479
 
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You did exactly what I would have done i.e. verified that torque wrench (and the digital adapter) is giving you sensible readings. Essentially, for all practical purposes, your torque wrenches would give good results when used for any and all automotive applications. It is immaterial whether the list price on the torque wrench was $10 or $1000.

Unfortunately, some of us skip the personal verification part of the equation and put blind trust in the wrench because the list prices of the wrench is $1000 :-(
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You did exactly what I would have done i.e. verified that torque wrench (and the digital adapter) is giving you sensible readings. Essentially, for all practical purposes, your torque wrenches would give good results when used for any and all automotive applications. It is immaterial whether the list price on the torque wrench was $10 or $1000.

Unfortunately, some of us skip the personal verification part of the equation and put blind trust in the wrench because the list prices of the wrench is $1000 :-(

I agree. I will use them with confidence for an impending engine rebuild(if I rebuild it myself). Besides the main problem IMO with torque wrench inaccuracy is the human element that is involved and consistency with regard to the pull.
 
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$35 for wrenches up to 250 ft/lbs. Send to Testwave Calibration Laboratory, 1515 Greg Street, Sparks, NV 89431 775-356-8378 Price includes minor adjustments.
 
Originally Posted By: vtecboy

I have a question:

Do you guys think the valve cover gasket that i just installed is damaged?.... I don't have money to spend money on a new gasket again.


i don't know what your gasket looks like or is made of, or how your valve cover is shaped. can't see any pics at the moment. but a valve cover gasket is not a critical part and unless the cover is deformed or something is should be very easy to seal. if the gasket is not deformed it should work. if you don't want to spend money on a new gasket, high temp RTV silicone should work provided you apply it properly. you may also want to check both mating surfaces to make sure nothing is affecting the sealing of the gasket. and because you mention it's the rear head, i would not be surprised the gasket might not sit correctly on the head because you cannot see back there.

also there are many items you should not use a torque wrench for. Just because a service manual has a torque value printed for a certain fastener does not mean you should use a torque wrench on it and tighten the fastener to that exact value. You need to understand what you are tightening or clamping and whether torque wrench should be used. a valve cover gasket is not a critical item that needs to be torqued or have excessive clamping force where you need to stretch the fasteners (you are not using torque-to-yield bolts on your valve cover). When a manual or whatever says only 35 inch-pounds, what that means in the real world is it's easy to over tighten the fastener and cause problems. this is typical of thin or soft gaskets and plastic parts where you can break the part by over tightening the fastener, such as plastic intake manifolds. in cases like this it's best to use a small 1/4" ratchet and do by feel and once the bolts or nuts just get snug and the gasket not being compressed then you do only 1/4 to 1/2 turn more at each fastener to evenly clamp the cover. then worst case if you didn't tighten it enough, you can re-tighten with no ill affects. in this case all you need is for the cover to seal against the head and if the gasket is placed properly over clean mating surfaces it will seal very easily. there is no oil pressure in there trying to force it's way between the head and valve cover so you do not need a lot of clamping force. and if anyone says to themself i can't judge by hand how tight/loose a fastener is or how well a part is clamped when we're talking this range of clamping force, that's a good indication you probably should not be turning wrenches on expensive things.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
+1

TheCritic, you need to read that :)


Nowadays, I just impact on any small bolts with this bad boy. Good-n-tight works for me...I've only broken two tiny bolts to date.
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Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Doesn't that gasket sit in a groove? I'm guessing that it fell out as you put the cover on.


I was thinking that too. Smear a thin amount of RTV on it to hold it in place.


Yup, did this on a GM 3.4L in a U-Body.. Couldnt figure out why it was smoking so much. Finally got under it and seen the gasket partially flopped out on the back side. Luckily, it wasnt that much of a PITA, but it still wasnt fun to have to pull all the brackets to get it out. I put a couple dots of RTV in the groove then pushed the gasket into the groove and let it setup before reinstallation.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Marathon Tools. com lots of military surplus tools as good prices, often with the cal stamps still on them.


What is the site? I can't find anything called Marathon Tools.
 
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