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- Dec 30, 2006
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Man that`s AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
doit myself addition.
- Thread starter electrolover
- Start date
- Status
Looks good
The house was built in 1940. Im grandfathered in. Ch&a is next on the list! Getting them [censored] window units outta here! And blowing in some more insulation.
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
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Originally Posted By: electrolover
The house was built in 1940. Im grandfathered in. Ch&a is next on the list! Getting them [censored] window units outta here! And blowing in some more insulation.
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
Overall looks good. Couple things I noticed but one big one I will pass on for you. You set your doors and baseboard right on the plywood. That will make it much harder for you/whomever puts the flooring down.
If you use tile or hardwood and you want to put the doors and baseboard in 1st get some spacers( pieces of flooring work best )so you can set the doors and baseboard on them before nailing in. This leaves the correct gap for the flooring to slide under the door trim and baseboard.
If you will run carpet use either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood blocks as a spacer depending on the pile depth. You set the doors up on it so the carept can be slid under as it is installed which saves the installer having to cut the trim and jam for it to fit. Setting the baseboard up when using carpet is debated around here but we always did it. IMO it gives a nicer finish than setting it on the floor and then butting carept to it. With it up you can work it under the baseboard as you stretch it tight and it just looks better to me. You have to really be careful who you hire to put the carpet in as well because a lot of carpet guys are rough and will beat the heck out of the baseboard with their stretchers. Whatever you do don't finish coat basebaord before the carpet goes in. Plan on some touch ups and even putty and sanding to fill gouges( or even replacement of BB sections )due to damage caused by those stretchers pounding into it.
You said carpet will go in and I see a potential problem for you( unless it is the camera angle ). Doesn't look like much clearance under the doors( bottom of door to floor ). Seeing as everything has been set on the plywood itself once the carpet goes in you may find the door hits or even won't open? Measure the gap you have and then pick a pad and carpet combo that is low enough. You may have to pull the doors and move them up or not use a pad?
Also, as the other guy said the door handle is upside down.
Not bad for an electrician. And make sure you cope your crown moulding in. Don't try and angle fit it. The end result, if you can use a coping saw 1/2 way decent will be much better and frankly once you learn to do it you will find it is easier and quicker( unless you have a really fancy mldg ). A coped joint won't open as much as an angle cut one will when/if the hosue settles and with changes in hummidity/moisture. When done right, even on stained wood, a coped joint is almost invisible.
The house was built in 1940. Im grandfathered in. Ch&a is next on the list! Getting them [censored] window units outta here! And blowing in some more insulation.
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
Overall looks good. Couple things I noticed but one big one I will pass on for you. You set your doors and baseboard right on the plywood. That will make it much harder for you/whomever puts the flooring down.
If you use tile or hardwood and you want to put the doors and baseboard in 1st get some spacers( pieces of flooring work best )so you can set the doors and baseboard on them before nailing in. This leaves the correct gap for the flooring to slide under the door trim and baseboard.
If you will run carpet use either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood blocks as a spacer depending on the pile depth. You set the doors up on it so the carept can be slid under as it is installed which saves the installer having to cut the trim and jam for it to fit. Setting the baseboard up when using carpet is debated around here but we always did it. IMO it gives a nicer finish than setting it on the floor and then butting carept to it. With it up you can work it under the baseboard as you stretch it tight and it just looks better to me. You have to really be careful who you hire to put the carpet in as well because a lot of carpet guys are rough and will beat the heck out of the baseboard with their stretchers. Whatever you do don't finish coat basebaord before the carpet goes in. Plan on some touch ups and even putty and sanding to fill gouges( or even replacement of BB sections )due to damage caused by those stretchers pounding into it.
You said carpet will go in and I see a potential problem for you( unless it is the camera angle ). Doesn't look like much clearance under the doors( bottom of door to floor ). Seeing as everything has been set on the plywood itself once the carpet goes in you may find the door hits or even won't open? Measure the gap you have and then pick a pad and carpet combo that is low enough. You may have to pull the doors and move them up or not use a pad?
Also, as the other guy said the door handle is upside down.
Not bad for an electrician. And make sure you cope your crown moulding in. Don't try and angle fit it. The end result, if you can use a coping saw 1/2 way decent will be much better and frankly once you learn to do it you will find it is easier and quicker( unless you have a really fancy mldg ). A coped joint won't open as much as an angle cut one will when/if the hosue settles and with changes in hummidity/moisture. When done right, even on stained wood, a coped joint is almost invisible.
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Good for you. I've seen many disaster reno's but you seemed to have pleased the real boss. Your wife.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: electrolover
The house was built in 1940. Im grandfathered in. Ch&a is next on the list! Getting them [censored] window units outta here! And blowing in some more insulation.
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
Overall looks good. Couple things I noticed but one big one I will pass on for you. You set your doors and baseboard right on the plywood. That will make it much harder for you/whomever puts the flooring down.
If you use tile or hardwood and you want to put the doors and baseboard in 1st get some spacers( pieces of flooring work best )so you can set the doors and baseboard on them before nailing in. This leaves the correct gap for the flooring to slide under the door trim and baseboard.
If you will run carpet use either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood blocks as a spacer depending on the pile depth. You set the doors up on it so the carept can be slid under as it is installed which saves the installer having to cut the trim and jam for it to fit. Setting the baseboard up when using carpet is debated around here but we always did it. IMO it gives a nicer finish than setting it on the floor and then butting carept to it. With it up you can work it under the baseboard as you stretch it tight and it just looks better to me. You have to really be careful who you hire to put the carpet in as well because a lot of carpet guys are rough and will beat the heck out of the baseboard with their stretchers. Whatever you do don't finish coat basebaord before the carpet goes in. Plan on some touch ups and even putty and sanding to fill gouges( or even replacement of BB sections )due to damage caused by those stretchers pounding into it.
You said carpet will go in and I see a potential problem for you( unless it is the camera angle ). Doesn't look like much clearance under the doors( bottom of door to floor ). Seeing as everything has been set on the plywood itself once the carpet goes in you may find the door hits or even won't open? Measure the gap you have and then pick a pad and carpet combo that is low enough. You may have to pull the doors and move them up or not use a pad?
Also, as the other guy said the door handle is upside down.
Not bad for an electrician. And make sure you cope your crown moulding in. Don't try and angle fit it. The end result, if you can use a coping saw 1/2 way decent will be much better and frankly once you learn to do it you will find it is easier and quicker( unless you have a really fancy mldg ). A coped joint won't open as much as an angle cut one will when/if the hosue settles and with changes in hummidity/moisture. When done right, even on stained wood, a coped joint is almost invisible.
I coped crown and base for decades until I discovered stops for my chop saw. Never again will I cope a corner. I glue my miters and it would take an act of god to separate them.
The houses we do usually have a 3-5 tiered crown. Pretty fancy.
As far as the base goes your right about keeping it off the ground. I use the thickness of my finger so carpet can get under it.
Originally Posted By: electrolover
The house was built in 1940. Im grandfathered in. Ch&a is next on the list! Getting them [censored] window units outta here! And blowing in some more insulation.
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
Overall looks good. Couple things I noticed but one big one I will pass on for you. You set your doors and baseboard right on the plywood. That will make it much harder for you/whomever puts the flooring down.
If you use tile or hardwood and you want to put the doors and baseboard in 1st get some spacers( pieces of flooring work best )so you can set the doors and baseboard on them before nailing in. This leaves the correct gap for the flooring to slide under the door trim and baseboard.
If you will run carpet use either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood blocks as a spacer depending on the pile depth. You set the doors up on it so the carept can be slid under as it is installed which saves the installer having to cut the trim and jam for it to fit. Setting the baseboard up when using carpet is debated around here but we always did it. IMO it gives a nicer finish than setting it on the floor and then butting carept to it. With it up you can work it under the baseboard as you stretch it tight and it just looks better to me. You have to really be careful who you hire to put the carpet in as well because a lot of carpet guys are rough and will beat the heck out of the baseboard with their stretchers. Whatever you do don't finish coat basebaord before the carpet goes in. Plan on some touch ups and even putty and sanding to fill gouges( or even replacement of BB sections )due to damage caused by those stretchers pounding into it.
You said carpet will go in and I see a potential problem for you( unless it is the camera angle ). Doesn't look like much clearance under the doors( bottom of door to floor ). Seeing as everything has been set on the plywood itself once the carpet goes in you may find the door hits or even won't open? Measure the gap you have and then pick a pad and carpet combo that is low enough. You may have to pull the doors and move them up or not use a pad?
Also, as the other guy said the door handle is upside down.
Not bad for an electrician. And make sure you cope your crown moulding in. Don't try and angle fit it. The end result, if you can use a coping saw 1/2 way decent will be much better and frankly once you learn to do it you will find it is easier and quicker( unless you have a really fancy mldg ). A coped joint won't open as much as an angle cut one will when/if the hosue settles and with changes in hummidity/moisture. When done right, even on stained wood, a coped joint is almost invisible.
I coped crown and base for decades until I discovered stops for my chop saw. Never again will I cope a corner. I glue my miters and it would take an act of god to separate them.
The houses we do usually have a 3-5 tiered crown. Pretty fancy.
As far as the base goes your right about keeping it off the ground. I use the thickness of my finger so carpet can get under it.
I dont know anything about coping. What is it exactly?
Yeah I know the doors are too close. I want to cut atleast an inch off the bottom for air flow but Im not sure how much you can cut off a hollow core door... prolly gonna start with an inch and see how it goes
I have had the handles both ways (I have these door knobs throughout my house) I dont like getting poked in the hand by the spear shaped point when I grab the door, so I installed them this way. They are cheap walmart knobs, but little kids dont have a problem opening them so thats what I went with. My kids are 3 5 & 7 and I try to make the house kid friendly.
Yeah I know the doors are too close. I want to cut atleast an inch off the bottom for air flow but Im not sure how much you can cut off a hollow core door... prolly gonna start with an inch and see how it goes
I have had the handles both ways (I have these door knobs throughout my house) I dont like getting poked in the hand by the spear shaped point when I grab the door, so I installed them this way. They are cheap walmart knobs, but little kids dont have a problem opening them so thats what I went with. My kids are 3 5 & 7 and I try to make the house kid friendly.
Originally Posted By: electrolover
I dont know anything about coping. What is it exactly?
Yeah I know the doors are too close. I want to cut atleast an inch off the bottom for air flow but Im not sure how much you can cut off a hollow core door... prolly gonna start with an inch and see how it goes
I have had the handles both ways (I have these door knobs throughout my house) I dont like getting poked in the hand by the spear shaped point when I grab the door, so I installed them this way. They are cheap walmart knobs, but little kids dont have a problem opening them so thats what I went with. My kids are 3 5 & 7 and I try to make the house kid friendly.
It depends on the door. Quality hollow core doors can have as much as 3-4" of wood inside at the bottom to allow cutting while cheaper doors can have almost nothing. You should be able to knock on it and listen for the change in sound. Where there is wood it will sound solid and where it is hollow it will sound that way. You should be able to tell the difference. I would be careful not to cut too much if you can't tell where the wood ends.
TIP - use blue tape on both sides of the door along where you will cut to help keep the door from chipping. I usually put a 2" piece on and do my cut line down the middle. I also tape the bottom of the skill saw( metal plate that slides along the surface you are cutting ) as it helps to eliminate scratches and black marks. Also, use a fine blade not a rough cut blade or it will trash it.
Explaining how to cope is not easy. Showing it is much easier for me. I will give you a link to a PDF that explains the different ways. I do not like the trace method. Not as accurate as using a Miter cut with a chop saw.
http://www.kelleher.com/documents/Coping.pdf
This lets the mldg slide over the piece on the wall and if done right it is virtually seamless even with stained wood. You cut it ever so slightly long( like 1/16 or less long )and bow it in the middle as you slide it into place. When you press the middle in and nail it down it forces the ends tight and you get a great fit. The key is to have a really aggressive back cut as you cope so you A) remove as much of the mldg as you can so it doesn't hit and B) the very end is thin and easily crushes to conform to the mldg it is sliding over.
I respectfully disagree with the member above who says miter cuts with glue are better. To each his own. I learned finish work from my Brother who has done it for 50+ years and this is what he does. Especially when we are in the million dollar+ homes. Just looks better and especially so with stained wood vs painted at least to me.
You haven't lived until you have to do a piece of mldg w/ a cope on both ends. Especially if it is a short piece. Lots of fun.
And I forgot to mention this earlier. If you are putting down vinyl flooring you do NOT put the doors and baseboard in before. Do those after it is down. At least the baseboard or you will never get it under it and you will wrinkle, crease, kink, and even rip the flooring trying.
I dont know anything about coping. What is it exactly?
Yeah I know the doors are too close. I want to cut atleast an inch off the bottom for air flow but Im not sure how much you can cut off a hollow core door... prolly gonna start with an inch and see how it goes
I have had the handles both ways (I have these door knobs throughout my house) I dont like getting poked in the hand by the spear shaped point when I grab the door, so I installed them this way. They are cheap walmart knobs, but little kids dont have a problem opening them so thats what I went with. My kids are 3 5 & 7 and I try to make the house kid friendly.
It depends on the door. Quality hollow core doors can have as much as 3-4" of wood inside at the bottom to allow cutting while cheaper doors can have almost nothing. You should be able to knock on it and listen for the change in sound. Where there is wood it will sound solid and where it is hollow it will sound that way. You should be able to tell the difference. I would be careful not to cut too much if you can't tell where the wood ends.
TIP - use blue tape on both sides of the door along where you will cut to help keep the door from chipping. I usually put a 2" piece on and do my cut line down the middle. I also tape the bottom of the skill saw( metal plate that slides along the surface you are cutting ) as it helps to eliminate scratches and black marks. Also, use a fine blade not a rough cut blade or it will trash it.
Explaining how to cope is not easy. Showing it is much easier for me. I will give you a link to a PDF that explains the different ways. I do not like the trace method. Not as accurate as using a Miter cut with a chop saw.
http://www.kelleher.com/documents/Coping.pdf
This lets the mldg slide over the piece on the wall and if done right it is virtually seamless even with stained wood. You cut it ever so slightly long( like 1/16 or less long )and bow it in the middle as you slide it into place. When you press the middle in and nail it down it forces the ends tight and you get a great fit. The key is to have a really aggressive back cut as you cope so you A) remove as much of the mldg as you can so it doesn't hit and B) the very end is thin and easily crushes to conform to the mldg it is sliding over.
I respectfully disagree with the member above who says miter cuts with glue are better. To each his own. I learned finish work from my Brother who has done it for 50+ years and this is what he does. Especially when we are in the million dollar+ homes. Just looks better and especially so with stained wood vs painted at least to me.
You haven't lived until you have to do a piece of mldg w/ a cope on both ends. Especially if it is a short piece. Lots of fun.
And I forgot to mention this earlier. If you are putting down vinyl flooring you do NOT put the doors and baseboard in before. Do those after it is down. At least the baseboard or you will never get it under it and you will wrinkle, crease, kink, and even rip the flooring trying.
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Well if I decide to put in a laminate or something I will put quarter round down over it.
I wasn't sure I I should have put the base board down before the carpet or not, but nobody rips off the base board to install carpet so I figured it would be alright..
Thanks for the link and the info
I wasn't sure I I should have put the base board down before the carpet or not, but nobody rips off the base board to install carpet so I figured it would be alright..
Thanks for the link and the info
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Got the crown molding in and painted. No close ups. Im sure you carpenters can spot the joints from a mile away.
Carpet turned out great. I hired a pro.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
It looks great! I have no idea why you are saying carpenters can spot the joints from mile away.
Because if you have done it for a living or even have just some experience with finish work like that you can see the gaps filled with caulking even on a photo on the internet( which would hide it vs being there in person ). It looks ok but there is a lot of caulking being used to cover the long/short miter cuts( outside corner ceiling by closet is very obvious ). For someone who has never done it before the OP did a good job however. Not trying to be a jerk just answer your question.
It looks great! I have no idea why you are saying carpenters can spot the joints from mile away.
Because if you have done it for a living or even have just some experience with finish work like that you can see the gaps filled with caulking even on a photo on the internet( which would hide it vs being there in person ). It looks ok but there is a lot of caulking being used to cover the long/short miter cuts( outside corner ceiling by closet is very obvious ). For someone who has never done it before the OP did a good job however. Not trying to be a jerk just answer your question.
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you could not be more correct. trim carpentry is a trade in itself.
i wish i could spend a couple weeks working with a good trim carpenter. but they seem to be harder and harder to find these days.
i wish i could spend a couple weeks working with a good trim carpenter. but they seem to be harder and harder to find these days.
That's what its all about!
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