Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: electrolover
The house was built in 1940. Im grandfathered in. Ch&a is next on the list! Getting them [censored] window units outta here! And blowing in some more insulation.
Thats why I put the sub panel in the addition, its gonna feed the ac.
Im gonna hire a carpet guy I think. I dont know the first thing about installing carpet and want it to be nice
Overall looks good. Couple things I noticed but one big one I will pass on for you. You set your doors and baseboard right on the plywood. That will make it much harder for you/whomever puts the flooring down.
If you use tile or hardwood and you want to put the doors and baseboard in 1st get some spacers( pieces of flooring work best )so you can set the doors and baseboard on them before nailing in. This leaves the correct gap for the flooring to slide under the door trim and baseboard.
If you will run carpet use either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood blocks as a spacer depending on the pile depth. You set the doors up on it so the carept can be slid under as it is installed which saves the installer having to cut the trim and jam for it to fit. Setting the baseboard up when using carpet is debated around here but we always did it. IMO it gives a nicer finish than setting it on the floor and then butting carept to it. With it up you can work it under the baseboard as you stretch it tight and it just looks better to me. You have to really be careful who you hire to put the carpet in as well because a lot of carpet guys are rough and will beat the heck out of the baseboard with their stretchers. Whatever you do don't finish coat basebaord before the carpet goes in. Plan on some touch ups and even putty and sanding to fill gouges( or even replacement of BB sections )due to damage caused by those stretchers pounding into it.
You said carpet will go in and I see a potential problem for you( unless it is the camera angle ). Doesn't look like much clearance under the doors( bottom of door to floor ). Seeing as everything has been set on the plywood itself once the carpet goes in you may find the door hits or even won't open? Measure the gap you have and then pick a pad and carpet combo that is low enough. You may have to pull the doors and move them up or not use a pad?
Also, as the other guy said the door handle is upside down.
Not bad for an electrician. And make sure you cope your crown moulding in. Don't try and angle fit it. The end result, if you can use a coping saw 1/2 way decent will be much better and frankly once you learn to do it you will find it is easier and quicker( unless you have a really fancy mldg ). A coped joint won't open as much as an angle cut one will when/if the hosue settles and with changes in hummidity/moisture. When done right, even on stained wood, a coped joint is almost invisible.
I coped crown and base for decades until I discovered stops for my chop saw. Never again will I cope a corner. I glue my miters and it would take an act of god to separate them.
The houses we do usually have a 3-5 tiered crown. Pretty fancy.
As far as the base goes your right about keeping it off the ground. I use the thickness of my finger so carpet can get under it.