Proper Lifting/Jacking- Hockey Puck or Wood?

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Hi guys-

Purpose of this thread is to figure out which of the two is BEST at leaving NO MARKS, being the SAFEST best to protect my show car from further undercarriage damage?

Is the hockey puck softer than wood or the other way around? I want something that wont cause any marks under there.....thanks all!
 
Wood splits along its grain. But plywood doesn't.
wink.gif


You can cut a groove in a hockey puck so it fits around your pinch weld, if you have one.
 
I have the jackstand pads for my HF jackstands. They're a little softer than a hockey puck, and adapt those jackstands to working much better on pinch welds than they do otherwise. I use a hockey puck on my jack. It sits nicely in the saddle and doesn't move around.
 
I use 1/4" sheet rubber between the wood and the car. Works really well. Hockey pucks work well too. I use both on multi-million dollar cars and they leave no scratches.
 
Ive used the same few pieces of 2x4 for a while now. Never had a split issue, though one of them does have a visible crack.

Never figured it mattered much as my floor jack, a Hein-Warner 2 ton has most of the lift area recessed... So a 2x4, cut to size, fits in there perfectly, and if it were to split, so what? It wont go anywhere.

I have been tempted to get some hockey pucks for this, just have not yet. The nice thing with wood, however, is that if you set it up right, it can spread some of the lifting force over a wider area. A good example is doing engine mounts on my Mercedes diesel engines... Heavy engines, that need to get lifted from underneath to make space to remove and install the mounts. Using two 2x8s over the jack sure is nice for preventing highly local force on the oil pan, a force that would still be highly local if a hockey puck or those red pads above were used. On a unibody, similarly, I like the idea of spreading the force...

I also have 1/4" sheet rubber that I use sometimes, depending upon the lift location and other criteria.

The big challenge are the rectangular recessed jack points on some euro cars. I actually cut two interlocking pieces of wood for my saab, and it works fine... But something better would be nice.

Anyone know if the square jack points on Euro cars are all of consistent size???
 
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
on multi-million dollar cars
never heard of such a thing...explain please. Did someone weld three Enzo's together or something?
 
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
on multi-million dollar cars
never heard of such a thing...explain please. Did someone weld three Enzo's together or something?


I've seen a few vintage Bugattis and Duesenbergs go for that much. I am just glad that Packards are still in the realm of reality...even if they're more $$ than a new car...

But, if I were worried about pads - I would think that a jack with a dedicated polyurethane pad and stands with similar poly pads/cradles would be worth the $$ on a show car. I use wood blocks on the Packard, but she has the original paint...so the frame isn't pristine...she's no trailer queen!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Ive used the same few pieces of 2x4 for a while now. Never had a split issue, though one of them does have a visible crack.

Never figured it mattered much as my floor jack, a Hein-Warner 2 ton has most of the lift area recessed... So a 2x4, cut to size, fits in there perfectly, and if it were to split, so what? It wont go anywhere.

I have been tempted to get some hockey pucks for this, just have not yet. The nice thing with wood, however, is that if you set it up right, it can spread some of the lifting force over a wider area. A good example is doing engine mounts on my Mercedes diesel engines... Heavy engines, that need to get lifted from underneath to make space to remove and install the mounts. Using two 2x8s over the jack sure is nice for preventing highly local force on the oil pan, a force that would still be highly local if a hockey puck or those red pads above were used. On a unibody, similarly, I like the idea of spreading the force...

I also have 1/4" sheet rubber that I use sometimes, depending upon the lift location and other criteria.

The big challenge are the rectangular recessed jack points on some euro cars. I actually cut two interlocking pieces of wood for my saab, and it works fine... But something better would be nice.

Anyone know if the square jack points on Euro cars are all of consistent size???



My first guess would be "no." - Different size cars, countries of manufacture.. Hey, even the Volvo has round ones!

As to the question of wood vs something else.. I have used wood, it never appeared to leave any marks or anything like that. Maybe split the wood once, but IIRC, if you are using wood on the jack then you are using cinder blocks as the jack stands. So you could be changing a tire or other stuff (in the engine maybe?).. Car ain't moving until you jack it back up and take those blocks out, then lower it back down.
smile.gif


And I really like those orange rubber pucks for the jack. What a great idea! I will have to use those, in the future.
 
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
on multi-million dollar cars
never heard of such a thing...explain please. Did someone weld three Enzo's together or something?


I racked a $30 million 1963 Ferrari 250 GTO using rubber and two by fours. We also are restoring the first Duesenberg, which is currently sitting on hockey pucks.
 
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
on multi-million dollar cars
never heard of such a thing...explain please. Did someone weld three Enzo's together or something?


I racked a $30 million 1963 Ferrari 250 GTO using rubber and two by fours. We also are restoring the first Duesenberg, which is currently sitting on hockey pucks.


Can I buy a 1992 Ferrari 512TR from you one day? $90,000, right?
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
on multi-million dollar cars
never heard of such a thing...explain please. Did someone weld three Enzo's together or something?


I racked a $30 million 1963 Ferrari 250 GTO using rubber and two by fours. We also are restoring the first Duesenberg, which is currently sitting on hockey pucks.


Can I buy a 1992 Ferrari 512TR from you one day? $90,000, right?


I cant say I'd recommend a 512, they aren't very fun to drive.
 
I'd like to know if anyone on here has used those orange/red poly jack pads and how they actually mount to the adapter- you simply put it on top of the adapter or what?
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Ive used the same few pieces of 2x4 for a while now. Never had a split issue, though one of them does have a visible crack

Me too, those 2x4x8 pieces lasted a long time without any split on any piece.
 
My floor jack had a 3" diameter removable cup on the scissor part. It had a shaft that ran through and was held with a spring clip. I bought a hockey puck, bored a 1/2" hole through it, and countersunk the head of a 4" x 1/2" hex head bolt below the surface of the puck using a sharp chisel. A couple of flat washers and a nut and it went right on the jack. I tried just setting the puck on the existing cup first but it kept slipping around. No marks at all on the differential of my car which is the rear jacking point. Cost about $8 for the puck and the hardware.
 
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