crown molding angles?

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Im about to start putting in crown molding in about an hour. Anyone know the angles used in corners with a compound miter saw?
 
Yeah, but that's assuming all of your corners, inside & outside, are right at 90°. Which they probably are not. Further, it assumes your walls and ceilings are truly flat, which they aren't.

You might want to read up on this before you plug in your saw.
 
There is a different angle depending upon the angles of the moulding. Not all is even 45 degree (same amount covers the ceiling and wall), and the better looking/nicer stuff is something like 38/52 degrees, so the cuts and angles are different.

What ive found is that before starting the job, make a template set of each corner you might encounter, to help you set up your cuts faster and more definite. Pros have the intuition, but if you're a first timer like I was, it definitely helped. All my corners were perfect so I didn't need caulk, spackle, putty, etc. we had to be careful because mine was stained.

Many folks putting up moulding to be painted do a lousy job and just caulk or spackle their mistakes.
 
Thanks! I will start with some templates at 38 and 52 and go from there.
I hage done it with a single angle saw before, just never with a compound.
 
No don't take my word about 38 and 52. What I meant there was geometry. Think of the moulding as a right triangle, with the corner where the wall meets the ceiling as the right 90 degree angle. An isoceles triangle has two 45 degree angles on its two other corners. A moulding that has one longer edge and one shorter edge would have some other angle.

They are fairly common/consistent with crown, just remember that not all is 45 degree.

I'm not entirely sure it's 52/38, so check... Don't want to mislead, and it's been a while.

There are also tables for the cuts online.

But the sample pieces, if you label them, make it real easy to dial up each cut and verify that the saw is in the right spot.
 
You have to measure the 'slip angle' [the walls tilt], and the corner angle for each joint.
This is why pros dont use a simple 45 cut for those joints. They use the back cut version, which allows more room for fitting.
 
Thanks for the advise guys. I didnt make it as far as I hoped today. But I got the baseboards and casings done. Gonna start on the crown next weekend.
The room is an addition, so rest assured there isnt a true 90 deg angle in it. I think im just gonna waste a stick and make short templates for each corner. Tha way I can keep cutting til I get it right and not mess up the final product.

Im an electrician, not a carpenter, but I do ok I guess...

Might get my brother over here to give me a hand, he's a painter/drywaller and has put in a lot of crown molding. He's cheap too!

I will post some pics in the photo section of the addition.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Invest in a good caulking gun


lol.gif
already got one. I above going into Sherwin Williams and buying it by the case.
 
If you truly want the best fit learn to cope the corners. That is how we did it when I did finish carpentry.

Caulking is for people with low standards!
 
Sorry bout the typo. I meant to say im not above buying caulk by the case.

Btw pics are up.
 
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