Need recommendations on a quiet 3"in/3"out muffler

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Originally Posted By: qdeezie

The engine is very much modified and puts out quite a bit more HP/TQ than it did stock and I'm looking to put together an exhaust that compliments the engine.
really? what did you have done to the engine???

FYI we had an '04 Mountaineer with the 4.6L and I cut the secondary cat out and ran 2.5" from the Y-merge to a DynoMax SuperTurbo and ran that back into the OEM 2.25" tailpipe and it droned to all [censored]. Had to go back in and have a resonator added in the 2.5" section to cut the noise down. It did nothing for mileage even though restriction was vastly decreased. I regret spending the money on it, twice.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
If it has an ever so slight rumble to it that's not audible with the windows up, I can live with that. Especially if there's a performance gain involved.


In my experience (though my Dakota didn't have a resonator; just one catalytic converter and one muffler), you'll still hear it with the windows up, but it'll be one of the quieter mufflers you can buy that will still deliver good flow.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie

It's just that loud "look at me I have a REAL truck" exhaust sound I'm trying to avoid at all costs.


Please do.

The world doesn't need another loud pickup truck!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: qdeezie

It's just that loud "look at me I have a REAL truck" exhaust sound I'm trying to avoid at all costs.


Please do.

The world doesn't need another loud pickup truck!


Nor does it need another loud Harley. But you can't convince anyone of that one either....
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Overall, my intent is to build my exhaust from front to back. It will be 100% mandrel bent.


That pretty much precludes the use of stainless piping (304 at least), since there are VERY FEW shops in this whole country capable of correctly mandrel bending this material, nor who would ever invest (or have) the CRAZY coin needed for those stainless mandrel bending machines.

But, it does not matter if you are going to use the stated mufflers, since I do not think that either one is even available in 409 stainless, let alone 304.

Where you are (unless you are right on the shore of the coast), an aluminized system should last a decent amount of time anyway, since you rarely have tons of salt dumped on your roads, like us Yankees must put up with, correct?
 
heres a trick to be quiet. take the last 2-3 inches of pipe and reduce the dia buy 30%. it REALY works. but no loss of power. been there done that.
 
I might see salt on the roads about 1 to 3 times a year. Generally, the weather conditions I see don't lead to vehicle rust.
 
Originally Posted By: morris
heres a trick to be quiet. take the last 2-3 inches of pipe and reduce the dia buy 30%. it REALY works. but no loss of power. been there done that.
30% diameter or cross sectional area? I believe it too. The exhaust gasses are cooling as they move towards the exit and will take up less space. Will fit through the smaller diameter tail piece just fine.
 
I picked up a Dynomax Super Turbo this morning from Advance Auto. I'll be installing it within the next two weeks. I'll post my thoughts on it.
 
Nice choice! If you want it to last I recommend painting it with some high heat paint. I do that with all the exhausts I've built for friends and they seem to be holding up well after a couple salty winters.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Nice choice! If you want it to last I recommend painting it with some high heat paint. I do that with all the exhausts I've built for friends and they seem to be holding up well after a couple salty winters.



If its aluminized or coated with something you have to sand it all off to paint it. I found out with my pro-chamber that it flakes off.
If its raw steel then of course prime and paint. I found a self etching primer that worked awesome on the frame of my chev
 
I didn't sand it.
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My exhaust is aluminized pipe. I just roughed it up a tiny bit with a scotch-brite pad then sprayed it with high heat paint. It was Rustoleum I think, and has been holding up well.
 
What is called a "resonator" is actually an "anti resonator" to keep booming and "rapping" under control. Remember the old school bus systems.... baaaaarrraaaaaaaaaap. Ya gotta break up the long pipe lengths without adding restriction.
 
I'm considering using a Dynomax Race Bullet as a resonator. I've been looking around at those. I'm going to see how the muffler does on its own first, if it's louder than what I like, I'll have a backup plan already in place.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
I'm considering using a Dynomax Race Bullet as a resonator. I've been looking around at those. I'm going to see how the muffler does on its own first, if it's louder than what I like, I'll have a backup plan already in place.
look into Pro-Flow turbo tubes I think. They are a split straight through welded design. Very nice. That is what they added to our Mounty.
 
to tall paul. sorry i didnt get back to you. the cat that did it for me said 20-30% of the dia. my idea is to adjust the dia of the reduction to the amount of hi RPM air flow. ie, a 440 with a mid cam, use 25%. or a near full race 500 in engine set the dia closer to 30%. i know some of this sounds a bit "by guess and by gosh" but you get the idea.
 
Originally Posted By: morris
to tall paul. sorry i didnt get back to you. the cat that did it for me said 20-30% of the dia. my idea is to adjust the dia of the reduction to the amount of hi RPM air flow. ie, a 440 with a mid cam, use 25%. or a near full race 500 in engine set the dia closer to 30%. i know some of this sounds a bit "by guess and by gosh" but you get the idea.
There is some amount of trial and error in this type of work but you'll know when you get it to where it really works good.
 
you cant be more right. like i said i had it on only one engine. but it seamed to work good. 1963 300J 500 ci max wedge short ram manifold. came out of 2nd gear at 125 mph
 
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