Tried Gunk engine flush

[Alan]

I was at 3K on my last GC run when I thought what the heck.

So I drained the filter,got the engine hot and poured in the evil Gunk.Let it idle at 1200 rpms for 30 minutes then drained hot.The oil poured out fairly clean and the filter didn't look particularly dirty.I peeped under the valve cap and did see some slight lightining of the area's where some deposits and varnish had developed.

Started a new interval with Syntec 5W-50 and a new hengst filter.The engine was very quiet and smooth which I attribute to the heavy viscosity.There was absolutely no loss in mpg's with the 5W-50 which surprised me.I actually recorded some of the best fuel economy i've gotten with this car

using the Syntec 5W-50.Wierd.

The real surprise was how quiet the lifters still were when I went to Supertech 5W30(dino stuff).I was expecting more noise but it didn't happen.

Overall i'm happy with the results.

 

[buster]

Your brave.

I will not touch ANY additive found at any major Auto Parts Store.

 

[Dr. T]

30 min.? I thought the directions were 5 min.??

Yes, I too get better fuel economy with 5-50 than I got with GC...so it's not just the CSt #
's at 100C...

 

[Alan]

I don't follow directions

!
BTW,
The VR6 which a reputation for running hot and going past 212.0 F easily during normal driving situations.220 to 240 F can be acheived easily and beyond that with track use.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

I wonder how much of the flush might have burned off after thirty minutes?

 

[Alan]

quote:

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Originally posted by GROUCHO MARX:
I wonder how much of the flush might have burned off after thirty minutes?

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Probably not much.It was still showing full on the dipstick when I drained it.

 

[Quest]

congrats with the seal swelling properties of solvent flush such as Gunk Engine flush.

Not much to comment on this other than to tell you that you may have to keep a close eye on various elastomeric parts (seals, valve stem seals, etc.) and also large chunks of hardened carbon/sludge chunks clogging up your oil pickup screen.

 

[Alan]

quote:

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Originally posted by Quest:
congrats with the seal swelling properties of solvent flush such as Gunk Engine flush.

Not much to comment on this other than to tell you that you may have to keep a close eye on various elastomeric parts (seals, valve stem seals, etc.) and also large chunks of hardened carbon/sludge chunks clogging up your oil pickup screen.

---

Dude,have you ever used the stuff?Many here tout the regular use of solvents with motor oil in the form of LC.

I seriously doubt there will be any seal problems at all due to the flush.It says right on the label that it's safe and doesn't effect seals.I think all the talk about the pickup screens getting clogged is just that,talk.If you have grandpa's old ignored motor with sludge that has taken the shape of the valve cover I could see concern but in most cases I think it's overstated.

 

[daemonite]

i've used a similar flush, works well...
dropped the pan afterwards because of the fears here, didn't see any chunks.

then again the engine was varnished...not sludged

 

[deepsquat]

I wonder what a dirty engine would look like after an Auto-RX treatment, followed by a Gunk engine flush?

I did it a couple of years ago to my Altima ..if you run a search on me you can find quit a few uao on my Altima ..it did not negitivly impact it ...I drain the ARX flush oil ..and instlled fresh Shell oil added Gunk Flush idled for 15 minute and drained it ...nor a dang thing except CLEAN oil came out ...the ARX had done a fantastic job! I did pull the valve cover later and it was clean inside ...but then again it was never very dirty ...just varnish ..and that is still there ...arx ..and LC treatments it always will be there

 

[rg144]

Not exactly on the subject of engine flushes, but ... I used DuraLube in an old AMC Spirit (bought for $100 and gave it to a needy friend). It knocked the carbon off the cylinders creating a nasty carbon knock. I thought the engine had thrown a rod but my mechanic just blew it out with some other nasty stuff. The lesson I learned was never perform radical surgery on an older patient.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

I've been considering MMO as a 30-50 mile engine flush.

I also would love to know what the difference is between MMO and Shaeffer's Neutra.

 

[drive it forever]

I've used it before. It was before I did performance rebuilds on a pontiac 400 V8, and a chevy sb V8. The engine blocks came out so clean I skipped having them hot tanked.

 

[wavinwayne]

If I had a really sludged up motor, & I could easily drop the oil pan after the flush, I wouldn't hesitate to use the Gunk engine flush.

But, if I wasn't planning on dropping the pan, I wouldn't use the Gunk. Just the thought of crud covering the oil pump pickup screen would make me lose sleep.

I wonder what a dirty engine would look like after an Auto-RX treatment, followed by a Gunk engine flush?

 

[TallPaul]

quote:

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Originally posted by GROUCHO MARX:
I also would love to know what the difference is between MMO and Shaeffer's Neutra.

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I suspect they are very different. Would be a good topic of a new thread.

 

[Blue99]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Quest:
congrats with the seal swelling properties of solvent flush such as Gunk Engine flush.

Not much to comment on this other than to tell you that you may have to keep a close eye on various elastomeric parts (seals, valve stem seals, etc.) and also large chunks of hardened carbon/sludge chunks clogging up your oil pickup screen.

---

This statement is just a bit over-the-top, isn't it?

If Alan used this Gunk Motor Flush the MSDS Sheet indicates a form of diesel fuel blended with a napthenic base oil.

I think we have several members on the forum who commonly flush the engine at each OCI with either kerosene or diesel fuel.

I can't see anything in the Gunk Motor Flush that would generate excessive seal swell when blended with 4+ quarts of motor oil in the crankcase for 5-30 minutes.