2010 Honda Fit 51R Battery

[Falken]

Hey guys, we have a cold snap going on in Montreal, and I just want to get this in order before I run into trouble.

I don't want to get an OEM 151R battery for my Fit as I don't like the 350 CCA rating. Also, it is expensive and has a very short lifespan as it is a smaller battery than the 51R.

I am looking at getting a 51R battery from Costco to drop in after removing the battery tray.

I know it is a tight fit, but I want to make sure it is 100% doable before I buy the battery if I get into trouble starting the car.

I have read that it fits into 2007 model year Honda Fits, but mine is a 2010 and there may be some differences in the clearance for the 51R battery.

If you have a 2009 or later year Honda Fit and you stuffed a 51R battery into it and know if it fits for sure that would be great if you can let me know.

Also, I would like to be sure if Canadian made Costco batteries are Johnson Controls. The warranty (3 year refund if it stops working) is amazing.

 

[bdcardinal]

I have heard of people using a Miata battery, the ones that mount in the rear quarter panel. The group size is U1R with top posts.

 

[mrsilv04]

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I have heard of people using a Miata battery, the ones that mount in the rear quarter panel. The group size is U1R with top posts.


Isn't the U1R actually a lawn and garden battery...?

The last Deka U1 that I bought was rated 425CA/350CCA.

 

[Dan55]

More info http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-present/68951-miata-battery-ge.html I had a 151R that lasted over 5 years, replaced it with a Autocraft Gold 151R made by Johnson Controls.

 

[Falken]

Does NAPA in Canada use Dekka batteries? Reading they are much better than the Exides they used to sell.

Does Walmart have any quality batteries? CT doesn't seem to get good reviews.

 

[Cardenio327]

I have a 2009 Fit, I was able to install a 51R, but it is a little too much modification if you want your car to stay stock. A 51R will not fit without the following modifications:

1.) Cut both ends off battery tray.

2.) Fabricate a 5/8" spacer to go under the battery tray. This is necessary for 2 reasons: the 51R isn't as tall as the original; and the spacer will help the fuse box clear the tapered air cleaner housing.

3.) Disassemble the battery-top fuse-box, grind about 1/2" off the air cleaner side of it so that it isn't hanging off the side of the battery so far.

4.) I went ahead and did a fourth step [unnecessary]: I replaced the battery to starter lead with #1 cable and the 2 ground leads [battery to chassis & chassis to engine] with #1/0 cables, all terminals soldered. Honda used some silly tiny cable for the leads, #6 or at the biggest maybe a #4.

You will end up with about 1/8" clearance on the headlight side and about 1/4" on the air cleaner side. I did this a year and a half ago, so far so good. I put a Duralast in it.

 

[GSCJR]

The group 151 looks alot smaller than the 51. I have used Exide exclusively for the last 7 or 8 years without any problems from "The Source". Was looking at Costco tonight...good prices on batteries but they only stock about 10 part numbers and never tried them. Did not notice 151 but they did stock the 51R.

 

[sciphi]

Originally Posted By: Dan55
More info http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-present/68951-miata-battery-ge.html I had a 151R that lasted over 5 years, replaced it with a Autocraft Gold 151R made by Johnson Controls.


That's me asking that question and then providing the writeup.

It's working out well so far. No issues to report, and the car fires up nicely, even in this cold weather we've been having.

 

[The Critic]

I think I paid $90 +tax from the parts counter for a 2009 Honda Fit's battery. The original one lasted 4 years and was still going, so I did not see a reason to experiment.

What makes you think that the car needs more than 350CCA to start?

 

[Falken]

Guys, you are probably right. At this point I am guessing I'll stick with the 151R.

I think the bad run of batteries is over that Honda had at one point.

Later this morning, before I start the car, I plan on hooking up my multimeter to the battery to see if it reads 12.6 Volts. If it is less than that I'll calculate the % dead later on today when I have the chance.

Then, when I get to work I plan on checking the battery in the parking lot with the engine off, again looking for 12.6 Volts.

I do a 2km drive, so this would be a good real-world cold working short tripping load test on the battery.

This is the 3rd Winter on the original 151R battery, so I can't really complain if it lasts me to the Summer.

If it lasts me a 4th Winter I plan on changing it in the Fall before the 5th Winter as I won't risk being stranded, but just like the idea that I really got my value out of a car battery.

5 years is the "ideal" I would like to obtain, but it is just very risky.

At this point I plan on gathering prices at the dealer, locate where I can get a 151R Interstate battery and the price, and see how much NAPA charges, just so it is handy for when I need to pick one up.

I hate being in a lurch and buying a battery from somewhere that would last only 2 years only to get me stranded again, hence the research beforehand.

 

[GSCJR]

Do you have access to a load tester? If not, perform an OCV test.

 

[surfstar]

Buy a battery with a good warranty = much easier.

 

[Falken]

Checked the battery this morning before starting the car, it was parked outside and was very cold, around -16 deg C or more.

The battery read 12.44 Volts, so I had around a 75% charge in freezing temps which is pretty good.

Started the car and went about 2km to work, left the lights and radio on for a minute to dispel any surface charge.

It was around 12.17 Volts.

So I should be able to get this Winter (the third) out of it.

Maybe I can get a fourth Winter, and in the Fall before the fifth try to get an Interstate 151R.

Thanks guys.

 

[Falken]

-26 deg Celsius (-15 F) this morning.

Hyped about going to the Montreal Auto Show with a bunch of guys, we rented a bus but we are meeting up at our local trade school.

I am very curious if my car will start, and if I get startup rattle as I have a nitrile ADBV (older Wix rev. filter).

This may be the coldest weather I have started the little car in.

I am glad I have Acura 0W20 (Idemitsu SM) in the crankcase, we'll see if the little 1.5L starts!

I should probably stay home, the wife and kid are staying home and nagging me to stay home too.

 

[Cardenio327]

Originally Posted By: Falken
The battery read 12.44 Volts, so I had around a 75% charge in freezing temps which is pretty good.


12.6 V is a nominal voltage, derived by multiplying an average cell voltage of 2.1 V times six cells.

The actual voltage used to determine charge on a lead acid 12 V battery is 12.48 V, i.e. less than 12.48 is under charged and more than 12.48 is surface charged.

If your battery measured 12.44 after sitting all night in freezing temperatures, it is fine from that viewpoint, but using a carbon pile load tester would give you a much better idea of your battery's condition.

 

[Vikas]

If a Canadian stays home, it must be really cold!!

 

[Danno]

No school busus today in my neck of the woods. Too cold and roads too slick as salt does not work and sand gets moved around too easily. Montreal is sunny Florida compared to here. Car temp gauge showed -38C or -36F this morning when I parked it at work. Record low temp ever this morning by 1 degree C.

 

[Falken]

Car started ok this morning, just a usual slower crank.

Had a bit of lower engine knock (extremely mild but heard it).

Popped the hood and valve train sounded normal.

When I got back from the show, the car started fine.

So this battery, after 3 Winters is still pretty decent.

I'll probably stick to a 151R Interstate for my next battery they seem to have enough capacity it seems.