Oil cleaners, boosters, treatments, and stabilizers.

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I have aleways followed the assumption that the best thing to do is to just run stright oil and use no additives of any kind with the oil. I was wondering does anyone know of any oil treatment type products that actually work or are they all snake oils like I thought?
 
Before I learned more about LC (Lube Control) I was always a anti-additives guy. Weather it be fuel, oil, tranny etc... I thought all of them were junk and never used any of them.

After much research on this site I've convinced myself to use LC and try it in my bike and in my truck. I like it, but if it's making any difference, not according to my butt dyno as far as smoothness goes. Though I'm sure it is doing it's job in my engines and I will continue to use it. Like DR Racing fan said, Auto-rx is another fine product and since I used it in my truck about 2 years or so ago, I have noticed my truck has smoothed out and get better MPG's and be more responsive as well. Though the anti-additive still exists in my personality the only things I will use is FP, LC and ARX. Just one man's opinion,,,,AR
 
There are recent VOA's by Butler Cat Labs on both the STP 4-cyl and the Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment. The Synpower stuff is much better.
 
i think these are the best additives:
sx-up
schaeffers #132
neutra
torco mpz
bg's moa and all of bg's products
bg 44k
redline si-1
pro-blend motorsports engine treatment
all of pro blends products
luboron
 
Fan is basically right. If you want better oil, buy better oil.

Auto-Rx and LubeControl are special cases. Frank Miller (the Auto-Rx inventor) says that oil companies have looked at Auto-Rx, but cannot package it in the oil they sell and get it to work right...I don't know the details. Ask on the Auto-Rx forum.

LubeControl can't be sold in the oil, 'cuz it evaporates and has to be replenished every 1000 miles or so.


Ken
 
Ken2 to clarify from what I know.

Auto-RX is too expensive for the adds companies to want to use and still make 3000% on their sales to the formulators.

LC was and has been used in year's past as a part of the fully formulated add pack.

Anyone remember ESDEN oil from the 50's 60's. Or Microlube ? Among others they all had a good dose of LC as part of the add pack !

Correct it must be recharged after about 1000 miles to maintain solvency. All the other benefits of lubricity and heat dissipation, and anti oxidation, remain, even if not recharged for a normal drain in the 3000 - 5000 mile range.
 
I like Lucas oil stablizer mixed with Mobil one high endurance. The mobil has extra zinc,phosphorus and calcium, but I still change it at 5000 or 6000 miles. Additives are good if you have a problem. My old 88 Caravan with the 3.0 engine has worn valve guides. I add Lucas with 15-50 Mobil ( about 20%) until it stops smoking. The Lucas also lowers the operating temperatures and I need that. The radiator on my van is too small and it runs hot in the summer on the highway. They say to use a larger radiator if it is ever replaced. The Lucas non-synthetic really does lower the temperatures to normal. I use a little (5 to 10 percent) lucas in my newer cars in the summer. IT is very slick and I like a little more viscosity in hot weather. Lucas also makes oil and tests the oil stabilizer with all the major brands of oil for compatability. I trust it and my testing has proven to me it works for what I want it for. Fuel system cleaners ar helpful and I also like lubegard and redline water wetter.
 
I use a little synthetic lucas in my newer cars that don't have problems and the non-synthetic in my van. I hope this helps.
 
I'm a convert to Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment that holds mega doses of moly. I want to try the Valvoline Maxlife Oil Treatment in another older vehicle I own that's using oil. I'm confident it's going to help too.
 
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