3800 Series 2 intake job question

[default]

I'm definitely in need of LIM gaskets as I have coolant coming through the bolt holes and pooling on the LIM. I know to get the fel pro kit with the metal gaskets FEL-PRO Part # MS98014T.

I plan on replacing the elbows with aluminum Dorman #47065hp

My question concerns the UIM, it appears to have been replaced once, having a 9-04 date code if Im reading the circles and arrows right. I'm assuming this is a GM intake, though I' not sure how to tell. Can it wait a while or should I do it while I have it off?

 

[JimPghPA]

I do not know the answer to your question. But there have been two revisions of that intake gasket. So be sure you are getting the latest revision. I do not know the number for the latest revision, but if you ask for the first revision and the parts company you are dealing with has it, you probably will get it, instead of the more recent revision.

 

[229]

Replace it, consequences are too high (engine hydro lock). If it is a Dorman it has a lifetime warranty. If the EGR pipe adapter that comes with the Dorman kit is not installed to keep the heat away from the plastic the UIM will fail again. I replace the belt tensioner while I have it off and the Gates brand was the same as OEM on that part. I placed some liquid thread sealer around both ends of the elbows and never got any leaks and it acted as a lubricant also to not tear the O-rings. If the lifters have been noisy then you are right there at them. Prime time to clean the injectors manually or have them done. Change the oil or at least drain and refill several times while inspecting it to check for debris from the R&R.

 

[The_Eric]

I mostly agree with 229.

Gates uses the same foundry as the OEM part, Littens, but their bearings (like everyone else's) are Chinese most of the time. On the elbow and their o-rings, I'd be very apprehensive about using the Dorman parts as I've have bad luck with their o-rings lasting any amount of time. Usually they start rotting out in a years time. For those, I prefer OEM. If the intake and/or timing cover aren't heavily pitted, I used Scotch Brite and thoroughly clean the surfaces and only apply a rubber friendly lube to aid in assembly. I too have had no leaks.

As an FYI, you can I.D. the upper intake by looking at the EGR stovepipe and the area that surrounds it. The pipe will be smaller than the hole it goes through by a fair amount (pipe will be visibly necked down) and the hole will have a steel liner. The old ones had no steel liner and a large diameter stovepipe that would melt the intake where it went through.

edit: I'd still replace the upper with another, but I want to relate some experiences with the Dorman part. In general, they're okay, but the last few have given me some problems. First the studs that the throttle body attach to have lots of thread locker on them and I've actually broken a few trying to install the nuts. Second, the plastic doesn't seem to want to hold up to the correct torque or 89 in/lbs sometimes. I've had two crack on me. It may be in part to using some sort of thread locker, which I believe is reducing friction just enough to increase the torque. I advise installing dry. (Boss wants me to install it with something applied to the threads and I believe that they come with something applied from the factory).

 

[Drew99GT]

If it's one of the newest designs with a steel EGR bushing like Eric mentioned, to prevent coolant leaks, it's probably fine. If not, you could get this one which seems to be a permanent fix.

http://www.amazon.com/Intake-Sure-Fix-Manifold-Kit/dp/B00573RIUA

From what I've read, GM's latest metal framed gasket set is actually superior to the Fel Pros? They are according to some people on here.

If you replace the plenum, all the gaskets, ans the elbows, it should fix any problems in the future.

 

[Nyquist]

It has been a long time since I've had one of these apart, but it might be wise to also swap out the spark plugs while you've got things apart. If I recall correctly, the back ones are easier to see/reach with the upper manifold off.

 

[default]

Is there anyway to check for the steel bushing UIM without pulling the UIM? My indoor garage time is limited and must be scheduled.

 

[229]

Pull the throttle body and look in. You may see coolant also in the corner nearest the driver.

 

[Tzu]

With coolant leaking inside, I would not wait a long time to fix it. We have a '00 Impala 3800 that needed this done a year ago. I bought OEM parts from the dealer and did this at home over the weekend (during summer). The improved/revised LIM gaskets are teal colored now. Check the valve cover gasket for leaking, as mine needed it and it was alot easier when everything was already apart. I went with the plastic OEM coolant elbows again because I did not check to see that they made metal ones. But the old ones lasted 11 years anyway so why not. My upper intake has those circles with arrows too and I know it is the original. Your's probally is too. No problems since. Good luck.....

 

[mattd]

replace the upper manifold while its off. If valve cover gaskets are leaking it'd be a good time to change them with the open space, as well as a tune up. Make sure you use NEW LIM bolts with blue thread locker.

 

[InvalidUserID]

Might as well replace it while you're in there.

 

[default]

Originally Posted By: mattd
replace the upper manifold while its off. If valve cover gaskets are leaking it'd be a good time to change them with the open space, as well as a tune up. Make sure you use NEW LIM bolts with blue thread locker.


New LIM bolts? Why? I'm under the impression this is a gasket design fault, not a bolt issue.

 

[mattd]

always replace intake bolts, especially lower manifold. It is the GM tech bulliten for this engine and the 3.1 and 3.4 engines. Factory ones come with loctite and should NOT be reused.

 

[default]

Care to elaborate? I cant see GM using yield bolts for an intake manifold. I was just going to clean them and add fresh loctite as advised by the tech I talked to about the procedure.

 

[229]

If you reuse them grind a little off the length or use washers to compensate for the stretch to be sure they do not bottom out. Clean all threads with brake cleaner (blowing it dry so hydraulic pressure will not crack the bore) and use Loctite. The manifolds swell and shrink and you do not want the bolts to loosen.

 

[mattd]

I'd recommend using new oneS due to what exactly 229 said. sorry i did not elaborate last night my brain was about to sign off. Part of the gasket failure is due to the bolts loosening up and stretching.

I'd STRONGLY recommend new bolts (they are inexpensive) but if you absolutely must reuse them do EXACTLY what 229 said.