97 Maxima High Miliage Synthetic

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Grambo

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I Doing a change on a 97 maxima tomorrow and im wary too switch cold turkey to synthetic 130000 on it miles im worried i was planning on putting in Mobil 1 10W30. dumb PEPBOYS promotion wont let me get the HM 10W30 or 40

What do you guys think?

Thanks Grambo
 
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Do rinse with M1 for about 2k miles, then change it again after 4k miles. Engine should be pretty well cleaned out by then try around 8k OCI.
 
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You can always try synth blend.... i like Kendals.

a qualilty oil like mobil1 shouldnt be a problem , but its good that your being on safe side.
 
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I HATED how M1 ran in my VQ, clattecky clack clack clack. German Castrol 0w30 did really well. So did regular GTX. Maxlife runs good in VQ as well based on what we have seen at the shop. I even ran PP 5w20 in it before , got my best MPG with no consumption at 200k miles.

VQ generally run the smoothest on thicker oils, I recommend Maxlife 5w30 , M1 0w40 , Rotella T6 5w40 , Rotella T5 10w30 , Redline 0w30.
 
alright so its okay to switch over cold turkey to synthetic on 130k vq30 without harmful effects. He doesnt have any oil leaks. i plan on using M1 10W30 With a M1-110 Filter. Im just worried. The pep boys promotion doesn't cover High Mileage variants like 10W40. Will i still be fine running M1 10W30 NON High Mileage?
 
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Get M1 AFE 0w30 if you can , better product.

M1 0w30 AFE

M1 10w30

0w30 is thinner at start up, meaning it will flow faster, starts doing its job faster. It is ALSO thicker at full operating temperatures when maximum protection is required, which is good. And if the vehicle is going to be driven in the NE part of US, the excellent cold flow properties are going to come in handy as well.

10w30 is an alt spec for that vehicle anyways. If the vehicle was driven in FL , it prolly wouldnt know the difference. But when it gets below freezing outside, 0w30 WILL help. With the excellent quality of full syn 5w30 oils available in the market, 10w30 almost has no place in the market anymore. We havent ordered 10w30 oil for our shop in the last 6 months!
 
I have used PP 5w30, Castrol EDGE 10w30 and QSUD 5w30 in the past 20K on my Maxima. It is my winter car and the only oil out of the 3 that did not work well was Castrol Edge. I had some rattling noise driving around on a cold motor.

Definitely go for a 5w30 or 0w30 in the winter.
 
Originally Posted By: Grambo
my question will it be safe with the high mileage motor?


Yes it will be fine. My car had 198,000 KM (~123,000 miles) which I purchased it and I switched it to synthetic. Had no clue what it was running prior.

IT sits on the drive way 7 days a week for over a year now and no oil leaks what so ever.
 
Originally Posted By: bourne
Get M1 AFE 0w30 if you can , better product.

M1 0w30 AFE

M1 10w30

0w30 is thinner at start up, meaning it will flow faster, starts doing its job faster. It is ALSO thicker at full operating temperatures when maximum protection is required, which is good. And if the vehicle is going to be driven in the NE part of US, the excellent cold flow properties are going to come in handy as well.

10w30 is an alt spec for that vehicle anyways. If the vehicle was driven in FL , it prolly wouldnt know the difference. But when it gets below freezing outside, 0w30 WILL help. With the excellent quality of full syn 5w30 oils available in the market, 10w30 almost has no place in the market anymore. We havent ordered 10w30 oil for our shop in the last 6 months!


With the 0W30 don't you think it will be to thin for high mileage motor like this, i know you explained it thickens have you good results with it? but your in a warm climate no?

THANKS GRAMBO
 
As long as you don't start the car in -30 and rev the snot out of it while it's cold then no it will have no ill effect on any unleaded gasoline motor.

0w30 is what I would use however if this is a beater I would put in 5w30 synthetic as 0w30 is usually more pricier (at least here north of the border!)
 
The values of the two ratings are directly comparable. The 0 in 0w30 does not signify the thickness or the thinness of the oil. It has more to do with the cold weather performance. Mainly how and if the oil will flow at extreme low temperatures. The oil still has to meet all the requirements of a 30w oil at operating temperature. Oil manufacturers have to use higher quality base stocks to meet the 0w30 weight rating than 10w30.

So to summarise , 0w30 will not cause/increase any leaks that the 10w30 oil would/wouldn't result it.
 
You'll be fine to switch... My folks '00 Maxima has seen mostly syn but I switch back and forth periodically in the summer months to conventional if I have some around.. Right now it has a syn blend in it. That engine is so awesome it doesn't really matter what you put in, it will run well, and for a long time, regardless.
 
Originally Posted By: Voltmaster
You can always try synth blend.... i like Kendals.

a qualilty oil like mobil1 shouldnt be a problem , but its good that your being on safe side.


Is Kendall GT-1 5W-30 A reputable oil. and is it a true SEMI SYNTHETIC? has anyone used it here? It says its mainly for forced induction engines, which i have Naturally Aspirated engine is that an issue?

Thanks Grambo
 
I made the change to synthetic for the first time on a high-mileage vehicle recently with no problems, of course I didn't expect any. I've had our 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac for the last 9 or so years and have put `168k of the 176k or so miles on it, and with all dino oils of various brands.

BITOG being the wealth of info that it is has given me alot of research material to use in deciding which oil to use, so recently I opted for a synthetic for the old Ford for the first time. Not only no problems, but start ups seem a little faster. I've made a couple of long, several hour trips in the truck since the oil change, and I can report no problems.

I wouldn't be reluctant to use a synthetic oil on your high-mileage vehicle if I were you, given my experience.
 
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