0W-20 in Winter and 5W-20 in Summer?

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Hi, Guys,

I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?

I drive a 07 Honda Accord 2.4L with 80,000+ miles on it, I’m an easy driver, majorly drive in city.
Here in the mid-west winter can be really cold, typically below and around 32 degree. But in the summer it will even go above 100 degree sometimes.

So,
Is it good for my car to switch around between 0W-20 and 5W-20? Or I should keep using 5W-20?

Is it necessary to use those “High mileage/Extended Performance” oils?
My local shops always tell me to use their “High mileage” version of their 5W-20.

Thank you guys very much!
 
Welcome to BITOG!

You can use a 0W-20 year round in your '07 Civic.
Your car is not "high mileage" and therefore you need not use use the heavier HM oils.
The lightest 0W-20's are the Japanese OEM oils.
The two lightest are Mazda 0W-20 and Toyota 0W-20.
 
You can use 0W-20 all year around, but if you are going to change it out before winter, and it is lower cost, then the 5W-20 would be a good summer oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JoshV5
I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?


The only concern I'd have is how many miles you're putting on in those three months. If it's not a lot, and you do choose to use a synthetic 0w-20, the oil may have a lot of life left in it when you choose to return to 5w-20 for the rest of the year. You could go the route of 0w-20 year round. However, what you do suggest would certainly work.
 
Originally Posted By: JoshV5
Hi, Guys,

I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?

I drive a 07 Honda Accord 2.4L with 80,000+ miles on it, I’m an easy driver, majorly drive in city.
Here in the mid-west winter can be really cold, typically below and around 32 degree. But in the summer it will even go above 100 degree sometimes.

So,
Is it good for my car to switch around between 0W-20 and 5W-20? Or I should keep using 5W-20?

Is it necessary to use those “High mileage/Extended Performance” oils?
My local shops always tell me to use their “High mileage” version of their 5W-20.

Thank you guys very much!


The 0W/20 is slightly better in cold start terms if you have very cold winters, so most folks in Canada like 0W something engine oils.
High mileage oils are not the same as EP or Longlife oils and they are only of use if you have oil leaks or sludge problems etc. They swell the seals, which is not good news if there is nothing wrong to start with.
Do some research into the possibility that a 5/30 oil might be better in engine wear terms. The best German engine oil company (Liqui Moly) does not make 0 or 5/20 oils at present, because they have not been proven to reduce engine wear factors and in most tests of non hybrid engines, the opposite was true. For a cold climate with no pre heater I suspect the best oil might well be a 5/30, but always do your own research.
If you still have an extended power train warranty, do check what it says, as some refer to a list of approved oils, although in most countries the manufacturer has to prove use of the wrong oil caused the failure. It does depend on what you signed, as some documents constitute a contract between you are the dealer and even force you to use the dealer for engine related servicing.
Figuring out the best OCI and the type of oil filter, along with driver style make much more difference than a one grade difference in the oil.
Minus 35C is the normal limit for a 5W oil, so the 0W oil might be best if you don't use a pre heater. Pre-heaters make a real difference in cold start terms and a simple sump heater does not cost too much.
If most of your cars useage involves getting stuck in traffic, then reduce the normal OCI (By half in a bad case) if no severe service figure is quoted. A UOA can help figure out the correct OCI.
 
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I just had a look at the LM oil finder site in Germany and assuming this is the K24Z3 engine, it only lists 0 and 5/30 oils.
The German experts think what is going on with the recommended oil weights is rather silly both in engine wear, oil consumption and oil leak rate terms.
Some new hybrid engines were designed for lghter oils, BUT most new engines use the same basic block as previous models where the best oil was listed as 0 or 5/30 and the manufacturers just changed the paperwork in a crazy attempt to improve fuel economy figures. The difference in cost terms between the fuel saving of a 20 and a 30 grade is often less than the cost of the top up oil.
For the benefit of the OP, the LM listed OCI for severe service is 10K km, so if you do very little highway driving a 5K mile oil only change followed by a 10K mile full service might be good, but without a UOA it's difficult to know the best figure.
 
Well the new Ford Ecoboost engines would appear to the first mass market vehicle for Europe that specs 20 weight.

Interestingly when you mention German experts is that when Ford had gone over to 5w30 in Zetec engined petrols most German cars were still taking 5w40 or similar.

Just wondering if due to the possibility of high autobahn speeds if German opinions relate more to the typical usage in Germany rather than thin we oils not being up to the job.

Just trying to be devils advocate here.

I have used 5w30 for many years and do still feel uncomfortable using thinner oils.

But if it is specced by Honda North America or Honda Canada then it may well be the very oil for that particular use and climate.


Though your opinion may be based on the wrong info as the engine code you mention is from the new 2008 on Accord, but the OP has a 2007 which would be fitted with the DOHC iVTEC engine I think.

A check of the Mobil UK website states to use 0w20 Mobil 1 or 0w30 Mobil 1 ESP.
 
Originally Posted By: JoshV5
I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?


BLUF: yes, your plan is fine.

That said, I ask: what 5W-20 you plan to run in the warmer months? If you plan to use a synthetic 5W-20 during the warmer months, I'd say that you might as well use the 0W-20 year-round. In all likelihood, the 0W-20 and 5W-20 oils you would use will cost the same (again, assuming a synthetic 5W-20). The benefits of a 0W- grade oil can be seen even in warmer months.

Now, if you are planning to use a conventional during the warmer months, then I'd agree with the switch to 5W-20, but would share the comment from another poster that you may be draining out very usable 0W-20 in the spring. I would at least let the 0W-20 remain in the oil pan for a full oil change.

Remember that Honda has "approved" your car for 0W-20 use year-round. The major functional difference between a 0W-20 and a 5W-20 is going to be the start-up viscosity; even at warmer "cold start" temperatures like 70*F, the 5W-20 will likely have thickened more than a 0W-20 would have. So again, if you are going to use a synthetic 5W-20 during the summer that would cost the same as a 0W-20 anyway, just use the 0W-20 year-round.

Mobil 1's 0W-20 is an excellent oil for your engine. I have the same engine in my CR-V, and plan to go back to that oil for good (after trying some others that I didn't care for as much).
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: JoshV5
Hi, Guys,

I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?

I drive a 07 Honda Accord 2.4L with 80,000+ miles on it, I’m an easy driver, majorly drive in city.
Here in the mid-west winter can be really cold, typically below and around 32 degree. But in the summer it will even go above 100 degree sometimes.

So,
Is it good for my car to switch around between 0W-20 and 5W-20? Or I should keep using 5W-20?

Is it necessary to use those “High mileage/Extended Performance” oils?
My local shops always tell me to use their “High mileage” version of their 5W-20.

Thank you guys very much!


The 0W/20 is slightly better in cold start terms if you have very cold winters, so most folks in Canada like 0W something engine oils.
High mileage oils are not the same as EP or Longlife oils and they are only of use if you have oil leaks or sludge problems etc. They swell the seals, which is not good news if there is nothing wrong to start with.
Do some research into the possibility that a 5/30 oil might be better in engine wear terms. The best German engine oil company (Liqui Moly) does not make 0 or 5/20 oils at present, because they have not been proven to reduce engine wear factors and in most tests of non hybrid engines, the opposite was true. For a cold climate with no pre heater I suspect the best oil might well be a 5/30, but always do your own research.
If you still have an extended power train warranty, do check what it says, as some refer to a list of approved oils, although in most countries the manufacturer has to prove use of the wrong oil caused the failure. It does depend on what you signed, as some documents constitute a contract between you are the dealer and even force you to use the dealer for engine related servicing.
Figuring out the best OCI and the type of oil filter, along with driver style make much more difference than a one grade difference in the oil.
Minus 35C is the normal limit for a 5W oil, so the 0W oil might be best if you don't use a pre heater. Pre-heaters make a real difference in cold start terms and a simple sump heater does not cost too much.
If most of your cars useage involves getting stuck in traffic, then reduce the normal OCI (By half in a bad case) if no severe service figure is quoted. A UOA can help figure out the correct OCI.


36.gif




Originally Posted By: skyship
I just had a look at the LM oil finder site in Germany and assuming this is the K24Z3 engine, it only lists 0 and 5/30 oils.
The German experts think what is going on with the recommended oil weights is rather silly both in engine wear, oil consumption and oil leak rate terms.
Some new hybrid engines were designed for lghter oils, BUT most new engines use the same basic block as previous models where the best oil was listed as 0 or 5/30 and the manufacturers just changed the paperwork in a crazy attempt to improve fuel economy figures. The difference in cost terms between the fuel saving of a 20 and a 30 grade is often less than the cost of the top up oil.

For the benefit of the OP, the LM listed OCI for severe service is 10K km, so if you do very little highway driving a 5K mile oil only change followed by a 10K mile full service might be good, but without a UOA it's difficult to know the best figure.


36.gif
Be careful, I got into some very hot water, as well as a few others for going down this path. LOL
 
I'm not entirely convinced either. My wife just got a new Kia that spec's 5w20. I'm going to feed it the thickest 5w20 I can for warranty purposes, probably GTX, but after it'll likely get a 30 unless I have a change of heart in that time.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: JoshV5
Hi, Guys,

I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?

I drive a 07 Honda Accord 2.4L with 80,000+ miles on it, I’m an easy driver, majorly drive in city.
Here in the mid-west winter can be really cold, typically below and around 32 degree. But in the summer it will even go above 100 degree sometime

So,
Is it good for my car to switch around between 0W-20 and 5W-20? Or I should keep using 5W-20?

Is it necessary to use those “High mileage/Extended Performance” oils?
My local shops always tell me to use their “High mileage” version of their 5W-20.
Thank you guys very much!


The 0W/20 is slightly better in cold start terms if you have very cold winters, so most folks in Canada like 0W something engine oils.
High mileage oils are not the same as EP or Longlife oils and they are only of use if you have oil leaks or sludge problems etc. They swell the seals, which is not good news if there is nothing wrong to start with.
Do some research into the possibility that a 5/30 oil might be better in engine wear terms. The best German engine oil company (Liqui Moly) does not make.0 or 5/20 oils at present, because they have not been proven to reduce engine wear factors and in most tests of non hybrid engines, the opposite was true. For a cold climate with no pre heater I suspect the best oil might well be a 5/30, but always do your own research.
If you still have an extended power train warranty, do check what it says, as some refer to a list of approved oils, although in most countries the manufacturer has to prove use of the wrong oil caused the failure. It does depend on what you signed, as some documents constitute a contract between you are the dealer and even force you to use the dealer for engine related
servicing.
Figuring out the best OCI and the type of oil filter, along with driver style make much more difference than a one grade difference in the oil.
Minus 35C is the normal limit for a 5W oil, so the 0W oil might be best if you don't use a pre heater. Pre-heaters make a real difference in cold start terms and a simple sump heater does not cost too much.
If most of your cars useage involves getting stuck in traffic, then reduce the normal OCI (By half in a bad case) if no severe service figure is quoted. A UOA can help figure out the correct OCI.


Are you seriously saying liqui-moly doesn't make a 0w grade or a 5w-20 grade?
Well then. The bottles of liqui-moly 5w-20 AND 0w-40 I am looking at right now must either be counterfeit,or you have no idea what you are talking about.
I suggest perhaps looking at their website because they are clearly there.
You sir are obviously taking opinion,and trying to make facts fit your opinion,and in this case you are ABSOLUTELY WRONG.
OP. This posters info in incorrect and I would completely ignore his advice. My dodge ram hemi has 245000 on the engine using 20 grades and it's running as good as new,you can run a 0w-20 all year long if you like however using a 5w-20 in the warmer weather may save you some money.
We have now proven that skyship has no idea what he is talking about since his whole comment is wrong.
Any reason in particular about why you would lie about this,I mean come on bud,it's oil. You have some serious issues. I'm going to assume you are a sociopath with nothing better to do than make stuff up.
Most here put no stock in a single comment youake,and after this absurdity none will.
Perhaps there is another oil forum on the net you can make up lies in. Perhaps they will listen to you to
 
Hokiefed said: "Remember that Honda has "approved" your car for 0W-20 use year-round. The major functional difference between a 0W-20 and a 5W-20 is going to be the start-up viscosity; even at warmer "cold start" temperatures like 70*F, the 5W-20 will likely have thickened more than a 0W-20 would have. So again, if you are going to use a synthetic 5W-20 during the summer that would cost the same as a 0W-20 anyway, just use the 0W-20 year-round."

That says it all AFAIC.
 
I use M1 0-20 year round and find it to be outstanding. Even last summer when we had very high temps the 0-20 performed great. If your engine calls for a 20wt oil then 0-20 is the way to go in a quality synthetic.
 
Quote:
Are you seriously saying liqui-moly doesn't make a 0w grade or a 5w-20 grade?

None listed on the Liqui Moly German site or sold in Europe as far as i can tell.
Thats not to say they don't produce or repackage for the NA market.

Edit: I found one semi synthetic 5w20
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: JoshV5
Hi, Guys,

I was wondering is it OK for me to use 0W-20 for winter about 3 Month and 5W-20 for the rest of the year?

I drive a 07 Honda Accord 2.4L with 80,000+ miles on it, I’m an easy driver, majorly drive in city.
Here in the mid-west winter can be really cold, typically below and around 32 degree. But in the summer it will even go above 100 degree sometime

So,
Is it good for my car to switch around between 0W-20 and 5W-20? Or I should keep using 5W-20?

Is it necessary to use those “High mileage/Extended Performance” oils?
My local shops always tell me to use their “High mileage” version of their 5W-20.
Thank you guys very much!


The 0W/20 is slightly better in cold start terms if you have very cold winters, so most folks in Canada like 0W something engine oils.
High mileage oils are not the same as EP or Longlife oils and they are only of use if you have oil leaks or sludge problems etc. They swell the seals, which is not good news if there is nothing wrong to start with.
Do some research into the possibility that a 5/30 oil might be better in engine wear terms. The best German engine oil company (Liqui Moly) does not make.0 or 5/20 oils at present, because they have not been proven to reduce engine wear factors and in most tests of non hybrid engines, the opposite was true. For a cold climate with no pre heater I suspect the best oil might well be a 5/30, but always do your own research.
If you still have an extended power train warranty, do check what it says, as some refer to a list of approved oils, although in most countries the manufacturer has to prove use of the wrong oil caused the failure. It does depend on what you signed, as some documents constitute a contract between you are the dealer and even force you to use the dealer for engine related
servicing.
Figuring out the best OCI and the type of oil filter, along with driver style make much more difference than a one grade difference in the oil.
Minus 35C is the normal limit for a 5W oil, so the 0W oil might be best if you don't use a pre heater. Pre-heaters make a real difference in cold start terms and a simple sump heater does not cost too much.
If most of your cars useage involves getting stuck in traffic, then reduce the normal OCI (By half in a bad case) if no severe service figure is quoted. A UOA can help figure out the correct OCI.


Are you seriously saying liqui-moly doesn't make a 0w grade or a 5w-20 grade?
Well then. The bottles of liqui-moly 5w-20 AND 0w-40 I am looking at right now must either be counterfeit,or you have no idea what you are talking about.
I suggest perhaps looking at their website because they are clearly there.
You sir are obviously taking opinion,and trying to make facts fit your opinion,and in this case you are ABSOLUTELY WRONG.
OP. This posters info in incorrect and I would completely ignore his advice. My dodge ram hemi has 245000 on the engine using 20 grades and it's running as good as new,you can run a 0w-20 all year long if you like however using a 5w-20 in the warmer weather may save you some money.
We have now proven that skyship has no idea what he is talking about since his whole comment is wrong.
Any reason in particular about why you would lie about this,I mean come on bud,it's oil. You have some serious issues. I'm going to assume you are a sociopath with nothing better to do than make stuff up.
Most here put no stock in a single comment youake,and after this absurdity none will.
Perhaps there is another oil forum on the net you can make up lies in. Perhaps they will listen to you to


When I talk about oils and Liqui Moly in particular I am referring to the German web site, not the US or UK one. The US system for designating oil as full synthetic is something of a con trick that was also copied by the UK.
I was surprised to see that LM are selling different oils in the US, although they have changed labels of some of their synthoils some time ago to allow for the lower quality demands of the US market.
If you want to know what the real experts think the best oil for an engine is, then check the English version of a German web site for the major brands. If you do that then you can figure out if the best oil for the engine is an 0/20 or an 0/30. For some of the new hybrids that were designed for 20 weight oils, it just says refer to dealer, as it's best to use the manufacturers oil for them.
Oddly enough I have to import LM Diesel Synthoil 5/40 from the UK, as it's not for sale in Germany due to a minor difference in exhaust specs.
Germany is the only country where cars use near full power on the autobahn for long hours, so there is more of an interest in providing the best possible oil and filters for the long OCI's that are common. The use of higher power settings means the oil companies are not interested so much in the very small fuel savings of the thinner back speced oils, but they are very interested in reducing oil consumption and even leaks that occur at higher oil temperatures.
The high oil consumption of some cars that were backed speced from 5/30 to 5/20 at high power is a real serious issue for some engine types, because owners seem to think that just because their cars engine does not use much oil driving around town, that it will not use oil at near full power. The oil consumption of my 1.9D is only 0.3 ltrs per 10K km, BUT my average rpm is probably 2K. I know enough about diesel engine oil consumption to figure out that the consumption rate at 4K rpm that would be used for an autobahn trip would not double, but go up about 4 times, plus nearly as much again for the common turbo seal oil leaks that high mileage cars often suffer at high power settings. 5/30 is a Volvo approved range, but the oil change centers and web sites only list 5/40 (Mobil list 0/40)and the main reason is oil consumption and wear factors at high power.
I might be a Brit, but if I want to know something about engine oil and filter efficiency (The US sites keep quoting final filtration figures which are a con trick, as most folks change oil filters way before that point), I don't look at US or UK web sites, I only look at German ones and then contact the company directly.
 
Last edited:
Quote:
I don't look at US or UK web sites, I only look at German ones and then contact the company directly

Same here, for the same reasons.
 
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