2005 Honda Accord V6 EX-L Maintenance Qs

[SwampSurvivor]

So, we just picked up a 2005 Honda Accord EX-L V6.
From what I understand, this has a 5 speed A/T. This car is in EXCELLENT shape!

Questions
- The owners manual says there is a washer that needs to be replaced during an oil change. What is this, why do I need to replace it and where can I get them?
- I'm planning on running a 5w-20 Synthetic ... M1? Which filters are good. I am going to most likely just find a Ford filter that will interchange on the car.
- The A/T oil looks clean, which makes me believe it's been changed at some point. How do I change it on this car? Do I have to suck it through the dipstick?
- What A/T fluid do I use in this car? Do I have to use the specified Honda fluid or is there a better/cheaper option?

Will 15'' wheels fit this car? I know the lower end models had 195/65-15 tires ... There are a few sets of 195/65-15 tires on craigslist locally. It's a popular bolt pattern, I'm sure I could score a set of wheels for it at the local junkyard.

Thanks!

Anything else we should be looking out for with this car?

 

[Pablo]

How many miles?

 

[Hokiefyd]

Congratulations on the purchase.

1) The washer is a small aluminum washer on the drain bolt itself. You don't always have to replace it. They're usually good for a number of uses. I replace them with aftermarket ones myself.

2) Mobil 1 5W-20 will be fine. So will Mobil 1 0W-20. Purolator PL14610 filters are my preference, but most any quality filter will work. I believe the Ford Motorcraft interchange is FL-822.

3) It's super easy to change the ATF. Easier than changing the oil even. You have a drain bolt at the bottom of the transmission. On our MDX's transmission, it's on the driver's side, near the front, facing the tire. Should be the same for an Accord V-6's transmission. To fill it, there should be a plug on the top near the back. It takes a 17mm socket and a number of long extensions. It will be tough to break it free, and it doesn't matter how long it's been on there; it's always tough to break it free. Use a long funnel to fill it back up. Measure what you take out and fill that same amount. A Honda's transmission is checked with the fluid warm and the engine OFF.

4) I prefer either Valvoline MaxLife ATF or Castrol Transmax IMV. The DW-1 fluid works fine, but shifts are too soft for my preference. I think it works better in new transmissions actually specified for that fluid, rather than older ones like yours and mine that called for the older Z1. I have the Castrol in the CR-V now and the Valvoline in our Acura, but I will start introducing the Castrol to the Acura as well. It's easy to find at Walmart.

5) 15" wheels should fit. I don't believe the V-6 models got larger brakes, but an Accord-specific forum should be able to confirm that.

The timing belt is due for a replacement, regardless of the miles, if it hasn't been done already. The book says 105,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. Otherwise, these things are very easy to maintain.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Congratulations on the purchase.

1) The washer is a small aluminum washer on the drain bolt itself. You don't always have to replace it. They're usually good for a number of uses. I replace them with aftermarket ones myself.

2) Mobil 1 5W-20 will be fine. So will Mobil 1 0W-20. Purolator PL14610 filters are my preference, but most any quality filter will work. I believe the Ford Motorcraft interchange is FL-822.

3) It's super easy to change the ATF. Easier than changing the oil even. You have a drain bolt at the bottom of the transmission. On our MDX's transmission, it's on the driver's side, near the front, facing the tire. Should be the same for an Accord V-6's transmission. To fill it, there should be a plug on the top near the back. It takes a 17mm socket and a number of long extensions. It will be tough to break it free, and it doesn't matter how long it's been on there; it's always tough to break it free. Use a long funnel to fill it back up. Measure what you take out and fill that same amount. A Honda's transmission is checked with the fluid warm and the engine OFF.

4) I prefer either Valvoline MaxLife ATF or Castrol Transmax IMV. The DW-1 fluid works fine, but shifts are too soft for my preference. I think it works better in new transmissions actually specified for that fluid, rather than older ones like yours and mine that called for the older Z1. I have the Castrol in the CR-V now and the Valvoline in our Acura, but I will start introducing the Castrol to the Acura as well. It's easy to find at Walmart.

5) 15" wheels should fit. I don't believe the V-6 models got larger brakes, but an Accord-specific forum should be able to confirm that.

The timing belt is due for a replacement, regardless of the miles, if it hasn't been done already. The book says 105,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. Otherwise, these things are very easy to maintain.


Very good reply, i will add that the DW1 is the prefered ATF on many forums.. I stick with it in my Accord, Ive replaced the Oil filter drain bolt once and got a new crush washer when i did.. otherwise i never change crush washers unless there damaged, save the money and just make sure the bolt is tight.
I use 5W20 Mobil1 AND HAVE NO COMPLAINTS.. my Honda doesnt burn a drop at 86,xxx and i change it once a year or around 6,000 miles (by preference).

 

[chrome]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Will 15'' wheels fit this car? I know the lower end models had 195/65-15 tires ... There are a few sets of 195/65-15 tires on craigslist locally. It's a popular bolt pattern, I'm sure I could score a set of wheels for it at the local junkyard.


It depends... some of the V6 models (coupe, manual transmission sedans) have larger calipers and discs on the front compared to the 4 cyl models. Best to check.

 

[bourne]

Congrats on the purchase. Do NOT buy into the hype that you have to use only Honda dw1 or z1 only. They are both mediocre fluids. Maxlife , Castrol import vehicle , Redline D4 are some of the most compatible fluids in the market. I personally noticed an improvement from Honda atf to maxlife. Agreed on timing belt , www.Rockauto.com has complete kits with belt bearings water pump and tensioner. Replace the drive belts to when doing the timing belt since they have to come off anyways. I recommend the Aisin kit for timing belt and gatorback belts for drive belts.

The only time I would recommend genuine Honda fluid is the power steering fluid.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I put a few miles on it last night - WOW This thing has some kick to it for a 3.0 V6! I don't know if the engine has that much more power or if it's the 5 speed AT, but this thing has loads more power than my 3.0 Vulcan Taurus ever had! Nuts!

It's a fairly common bolt pattern 5x4.5/114.3 - same as my Jeep! Jeeps have a huge center bore, so the wheels won't work.

I have an extra 15'' wheel from a jeep hanging out, I might see if I can throw it on just to clear the caliper. I know Dodge Caravans have the same bolt battern and a small center bore. I think tonight I'll pull the spare out and see what I can find.

What about DexIII - does that work in these transmissions? The owners manual said it can be used ... I'd use that if it helps at all.

I think we'll shoot for Maxlife ATF, if not, DW-1. I was reading from some other people that the DW-1 was causing softer shifts - I'm from the school of thought that ATs need to shift harsh to last. The person who will be driving the car is ... a hard driver ... to say the least. In the spring I"m going to be throwing a transmission cooler on it as well.

Another thing I found odd, was Honda said 7500 miles for Oil change buy 15000 for filter changes? Are these engines really that good that they need the filter changed ONLY every other oil change?

Going to try to do M1 5w-20 for extended drains. The person who is driving it isn't the biggest maintenance person ... so an oil that can go longer is a better thing! The Hyundai this is replacing went 18000 on an oil change. I changed the filter twice, but was never able to do an actual oil change ... luckily it leaked about a quart every 750 miles!

 

[Hokiefyd]

The only thing this engine has in common with a Vulcan-powered Taurus is the displacement. Honda's J-series V-6 is one of the smoothest V-6 engines you'll drive, and a very entertaining one to drive as well. You should hear the big cam kick in at around 4,400 rpm. If not, hold the car in second gear and accelerate slowly up through the rpm band and listen for it at or near that point. That change in pitch is habit-forming after a while.

 

[Mud]

Caveat - all this info below is for a 2008....

I prefer more frequent OCI's on our '08 with the variable valve timing, so I go with around 4K miles. Filters I use are Wix 51356, MC FL-822. Oil - I'm not brand loyal, any 5W-20 that's on sale and BITOG-recommended

I use DW1 for the tranny and Honda coolant/PS fluid.
Air filter Wix 49041, cabin air filter Wix 24815.

About 66,000 miles on the car, no significant issues BUT you may want to check the plugs. If your '05 has the variable valve timing, it essentially cuts out certain cylinders in ECO mode. Results in the plugs in those cylinders getting nasty looking. I replaced all plugs at about 40K miles.

Another item, these cars have non-adjustable rear camber control arms. In our car this resulted in too much negative camber (rear tires kicking out at the bottom) and crummy tire life. I replaced the factory arms with SPC adjustable camber kit, very happy with the results.

Dunno about the wheels on an '05, ours has 17" wheels.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Just googled it quick - not sure of torque, but it has 100 more horsepower. 250 vs 155 ... Not bad at all. Also 100 more than the Santa Fe it replaced.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Our MDX also calls for 7,500 OCIs with filters on every other, but I go every 5k for both on it because of lots of short-tripping. I might go 7,500 miles on each if we did long trips all the time. I wouldn't go 15k miles on most filters. Maybe on an Amsoil filter or other ultra premium filter.

I would not use generic Dex 3 in it. I would only use a fluid specifically recommended for Honda applications on the bottle.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
- The owners manual says there is a washer that needs to be replaced during an oil change. What is this, why do I need to replace it and where can I get them?

It's a sealing washer. Leave it out, and the joint will drip. You replace it because it crushes when you torque the bolt down. It can be re-used at least once, but it's not a great idea to do that too many times. Eventually the washer will displace sufficient to trap it on the bolt, and you may have to struggle to get it off the bolt. They cost about 50 cents at the dealer. Aftermarket washers are fine, but may affect tightening torque. If you have a steel oil pan, do NOT overtorque that bolt!!

Originally Posted By: Miller88
- I'm planning on running a 5w-20 Synthetic ... M1? Which filters are good. I am going to most likely just find a Ford filter that will interchange on the car.

Everybody has an opinion, and nobody wants to use Honda's OE filter. What's really weird about this group is that there seems to be a prevailing opinion that anything OE is a ripoff. I think your car uses 5W-20 oil anyway, so run whatever magick potion you like.

Originally Posted By: Miller88
- The A/T oil looks clean, which makes me believe it's been changed at some point. How do I change it on this car? Do I have to suck it through the dipstick?

A Honda's A/T fluid level is checked and changed differently from most other cars. DO NOT attempt to change the fluid until you find out HOW to do it!!! READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL!!!

Originally Posted By: Miller88
- What A/T fluid do I use in this car? Do I have to use the specified Honda fluid or is there a better/cheaper option?

You have a 2005, the first year Honda finally solved their hellish issues with failed transmissions. It took Honda years to fix their poor designs and stem the monetary losses resulting therefrom, and they now make arguably the most reliable automatics in the business. Personally, I would not mess with success by using aftermarket; but hey, anything OE is bad according to this group, so don't listen to me.


Other things that come to mind...

- Check your rad hoses (esp. the upper one). Squeeze them when the engine is cold. They should feel firm all through, and should flex without crinkling or mushiness. Look at the them when hot. There ought to be NO appreciable swelling from what they looked like when they were cold.

- If you decide to add/change the power steering fluid, do NOT use anything but OE Honda fluid. Use of any other fluid will damage the seals.

- Have the brakes checked. Honda cheaps-out on brakes, and they have a tendency to rust and seize.

- Finally, I do believe you have a timing belt. Check the Owner's Manual for the change interval. If no interval is listed, then you have a chain.

 

[randomhero439]

I use 5w-20 Pennzoil Ultra all year round. The filter is either Pureone or Distance+ depending on if im autocrossing or not.. These engines nothing short of spectacular. I dont know if 15" wheels will fit over a 11.1" rotor. My Accord barely fits 16s, but thats because the 6-speed manuals got 11.8" rotors. Literally a cm of clearance between wheel and caliper lol.

Do the automatic transmission fluid using OEM DW-1. First change at 60k or 3 years, then every 30k or 2 years after that. For the oil if you use synthetic your cleared for 7500 mile, or 1 year OCI + filter. If conventional oil, do the 3750 mile, or 6 months OCI + filter.

 

[bigjl]

Personally I would buy OE spec oil filters for it, a Ford one may fit but will it be the exact same or will there be a slight difference.

Why take the chance, Bitogers mention ROI, what ROI is there when you save a couple of dollars and damage the engine.

I don't know much about the 3.0 v6 Accord as they are hens teeth in the UK, actually not even sure they made one, but I think variable valve timing is a definate possibility.

As far as the plan for going to 15" wheels, is that to save money on the cost of 1)" or 17" tyres?

Honestly can't see why you would want to. Unless you are wanting to put winter tyres on the 15" wheels and keep the others nice for summer use.

Again on the subject of ATF as long as it matches the specs I would go for any big name brand, Castrol etc.

Though being in the US perhaps Amsoil make a quality product that will do the job?

As far as oil choice, 5k or six months with a OE/Honda filter and whichever full synthetic is available that matches specs.

 

[cwing6]

I have this same vehicle with 190K miles. As I've stated here before, this is the best vehicle I have ever owned out of approximately 20. Used PYB 5W-20 for the first 50K miles, then PP or M1 ever since. It still runs as good as the day I bought it. Remember to change the timing belt. I use only Honda ATF because of the AT issues in previous generations, doing a drain and refill about every 30K. No issues so far. Enjoy your purchase, its a great vehicle!

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I wish it were mine

It just lives with me and I'm going to be maintaining it (to my ability) - the timing belt and water pump are not something I can do.

It's a VERY Nice car .. very smooth, chassis is nice (almost no body roll), engine is quick, trans shifts nice, etc.

The 15'' wheels are just for snow tires (that are abundant on CL). The "summer" tires on the nice alloys are nearly new and should be good for a few years to come. They just aren't snow tires.

I'm not against OEM filter and fluid (currently running a MC filter and MC fluid and have always used MercV fluids in my Fords with auto transmissions). It's more the cost. I'll call the local Honda dealer and see what the price is on a quart of DW-1.

 

[VicVinegar]

My Dad had an '04 he ran up to 140k with no issues at all. Should be a good car.

No one else mentioned it, but those crush washers are like 50 cents at the dealer.

FWIW,, my Dad ran that Accord up into Oswego 5 days a week with the all seasons and never had an issue. Snows are good insurance though.

 

[cchase]

Our dealer just gives me a pile of washers when I ask for them. So some are flexible with them.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Personally, I would not mess with success by using aftermarket; but hey, anything OE is bad according to this group, so don't listen to me.


I think that's a big of an over-reaction. I use the OEM Honda coolant, the OEM Honda brake fluid, the OEM Honda power steering fluid, and the OEM Honda brake pads. Most people with Hondas recommend using OEM brake fluid and P/S fluid.

I've used DW-1 in ours, in both of ours, and I like other fluids better. In both.

Miller88, your Honda dealer will get you about $8/qt for the DW-1. It's not an outrageous price, but it is more expensive than other options, and it doesn't have a great reputation. Though better than the old Z1, it still shears pretty quickly in use and transmission behavior begins to degrade somewhat quickly after a change. I can tell a difference in our MDX's transmission after only 5-6k miles after fresh DW-1. New DW-1 fixes it, but shifts begin to get slippery again after 5-6k more miles. This doesn't happen with the Valvoline fluid. I recommend this fluid because it's worked better in our transmission than the OEM fluid.

But OEM fluid is fine, and if you prefer to use it, there's certainly nothing wrong with that.

 

[The Critic]

You can purchase a 100-pack of the engine oil drain plug washers on eBay for $20 shipped.

I paid about $15 for a 50 pack of the AT washers on eBay, which Honda wanted $2/ea for.

DW-1 works fine, but makes the shifts a bit notchier than ATF-Z1.