GM Hub/Bearing mounting bolts

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2003 Pontiac Montana, 129K miles, right front wheel bearing has a lot of play and needs to be replaced.

This is a hub & bearing unit that is replaced as a whole assembly, the bearings themselves are not servicable. The same or similar part is used on a gazillion GM vehicles.

I will order a Timken hub assembly from Rockauto.

The service manual says to replace the 3 hub mounting bolts. I can't find them for sale anywhere, even online GM parts dealers. Nobody mentions replacing the bolts in the online tutorials I've found.

If you have done this job, do you replace the bolts? Or just re-use them, maybe with some thread locker? If you replace them, are they a dealer only item?

The left front bearing was replaced under warranty, I have no idea if the bolts were replaced or not. It's not listed on the invoice, the only part listed is "hub".
 
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The bolts are re-usable. They ought to be pretty clean on the threads, given that they're in a fairly protected area relative to the rest of the front suspension.
 
Originally Posted By: ron917


I will order a Timken hub assembly from Rockauto.



Also check Amazon.com
 
Good choice using the Timken bearing and getting it from RockAuto is usually the cheapest place.

I just checked the GM service procedures and sure enough....says in red letters to use NEW bolts. I've never seen that before. I know you must replace the AXLE nut..but was surprised about the bearing bolts. I just did hub/bearings in a Sierra pickup, Cadillac CTS and a Grand Prix and the GM service did not say to replace those bolts..just clean and apply loctite.

Anyway - here is the service procedure in a cut/paste format w/o pictures:


Service Information

2003 Pontiac Montana | Montana, Silhouette, Venture VIN U Service Manual | Suspension | Front Suspension | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 821170
Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
2. Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .



1. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2).



1. Remove the wheel speed sensor electrical connector from the bracket.
2. Remove the brake caliper bracket with the brake caliper. Refer to Front Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement .
3. Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .
4. Separate the wheel drive shaft from the wheel bearing/ hub assembly. Refer to Front Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement
Important: Wrap the wheel drive shaft boot with a clean shop towel this will help protect the cv joint boot.
5. Support wheel drive shaft.



1. Remove and DISCARD the wheel bearing/hub bolts. DO NOT reuse the wheel drive shaft nut, replace with NEW.
2. Remove the wheel bearing/hub.
Installation Procedure



1. Install the wheel bearing/hub.
Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

2. Install NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts to 130 N·m (96 lb ft).
3. Install the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Front Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement
4. Install the brake rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .
5. Install the brake caliper bracket with the brake caliper. Refer to Front Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement .



Important: Ensure that the connector clip engages the bracket properly.
1. Install the wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bracket.



1. Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2).
2. Install the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
3. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
© 2012 General Motors. All rights reserved.
 
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The wheel bearing hub bolts are to be torqued to 130NM or 96ft lbs.

The axle nut is 160NM 118 ft lbs
 
Quote:
If you have done this job, do you replace the bolts? Or just re-use them, maybe with some thread locker?

The must replace bolts is a disclaimer, not sayings its a bad thing but thats the reason.
I have done a lot of these, they use red thread locker on the threads making them difficult to remove and I always reuse the old bolts (so does the dealer BTW, i have seen it done many times).

Heat the hub around the bolt threads where they come though on the front with a torch (propane or map will work kay for these) then immediately remove the one you heated. It will come out fairly easy.

You will need a 3/8 drive torx, hex or allen socket with an extension to get around the cv boot, a long handle 3/8 ratchet helps. Its a 30-45 min job once you did one.
This job can be done with the cv axle in the hub, just knock it in with a mallet, you don't need to drop it down out of the way.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
If you have done this job, do you replace the bolts? Or just re-use them, maybe with some thread locker?

The must replace bolts is a disclaimer, not sayings its a bad thing but thats the reason.
I have done a lot of these, they use red thread locker on the threads making them difficult to remove and I always reuse the old bolts (so does the dealer BTW, i have seen it done many times).

Heat the hub around the bolt threads where they come though on the front with a torch (propane or map will work kay for these) then immediately remove the one you heated. It will come out fairly easy.

You will need a 3/8 drive torx, hex or allen socket with an extension to get around the cv boot, a long handle 3/8 ratchet helps. Its a 30-45 min job once you did one.
This job can be done with the cv axle in the hub, just knock it in with a mallet, you don't need to drop it down out of the way.



I agree with all you said. I always clean the bolts and loctite them....I never had to heat any bolts though, just use my breaker bar.
 
The instruction to replace these bolts is odd. The bolts are the same part number used on other GM vehicles, 11570580, and in most other vehicles they do not require replacement.
 
I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies on my 98 chevy K3500 a few years ago and I re-used the bolts but did buy new axle nuts.

I would just re-use yours. I don't think you will have any issues.

Wayne
 
Stu_Rock, thanks for posting the part number. Google found some pictures, the bolts come with pre-applied thread locker. When I have encountered similar bolts in the past, I just cleaned them up and applied new thread locker.

I'm going to re-use them as long as they are not damaged. I will wire brush them and apply new thread locker.

I will get a new axle nut.

Thanks for all of the replies! Now I just need the time to do the job...
 
Try the new thread locker tape, the blue one.
The problem with the red liquid is once you get one bolt in it will begin to congeal.
By the time you get all three in the first one will give inaccurate torque readings, the tape gives you some working time.
 
Success! The Montana has a new right front hub/bearing assembly. Thanks for the hints and tips.

I re-used the bolts, cleaned them up with a wire brush and applied blue thread locker.

The axle was stuck in the hub and put up a fight, but I prevailed in the end. I have an air hammer, hub puller, air impact wrench and a 3 foot pipe for my breaker bar. I think what did the trick was applying lots of PB Blaster and then letting it sit with pressure on it from the hub puller while I ate my lunch. After lunch I was able to start pushing it out using the hub puller with breaker bar and pipe, then switched to the normal ratchet once it started moving easily. It's a tight fit so any corrosion is going to cause problems.

I did a thorough inspection of the front end, and it's going to need more work. Stabilizer bar bushings and end links are shot, right inner tie rod end has some play, and the left ball joint has some play. None of those are hard, I've done them before. I may let a shop do the inner tie rod end because it's a pain to reach without a lift and it will need to go in for an alignment anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: ron917
I will get a new axle nut.


Did your new bearing come with a new nut?

I've seen Timken bearings come with new nuts included in the box, but I've also seen some that came without. They are available from Napa though; in fact last time I bought three or four of them just to have them on hand. All my cars use the same size.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Did your new bearing come with a new nut?

No, I had to order the nut as a separate part.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Why not switch sides? They will seat differently, and you can restake them?


These axle nuts are not stake type nuts. They are sort of self locking, the type that have a fairly high prevailing torque - no nylon insert or thread locker, just a tight fit.
 
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