How tight should car battery terminals be?

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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Do not grease them before - that is silly. Grease them afterwards.
Why introduce an insulator into an electrical connection?
Just because the car may still run is not a reason to use inferior procedure.


Because that is the best and correct way to keep a connection sealed.

It's not inferior -- dielectric greases are routinely used in this fashion in telecommunications and electrical connections exposed to the elements. RF signal transfer is a lot more sensitive than a starting battery primary connection, and that's the best way to weather-proof an RF connection (both for transmitters and receivers).

You'll find the same practice routinely in mains service panel components and connections that move a lot more juice than a car battery.

It's also used in quite a few automotive harness connections.

We've also used this method in boating for decades, where salt water would otherwise eat the whole connection up in no time.

Maximum metal to metal conduction still occurs in the connection, and the dielectric fills the voids (that don't complete a circuit anyway) and surrounds the connection from the inside out, fully protecting it from moisture intrusion.

Just slapping greases and caulks on the outside of a connection is no better than wrapping it with electrical tape. That does a better job at keeping trapped moisture in a connection than keeping it out -- a decidedly inferior method.
 
Once you understand that the grease is not there for its insulating or conducting properties (and this goes for the anti-seize compounds too) but solely to prevent the corrosion, it makes sense. Grease is used to replace moist air near the contact. Once the corrosion starts, it will keep on moving even to the contact points which previously had no supply of oxygen. That is why you don't slap on the grease afterwards but rather pack it in before. It does sound counter intuitive but it is completely scientific.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
For batteries, Vaseline is good enough, no need to waste dielectric grease.


That's right.

For a car battery, you don't even need genuine Vaseline. Plain old 79 cent generic "petroleum jelly" works. We've got a tiny little jar that must be 25 years old just for batts. Probably enough to last another 50 years.

A dab is enough. Just a film all around will do. But don't worry about too much. The extra just squirts out. THEN you can wipe it off if you like.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Do not grease them before - that is silly. Grease them afterwards.
Why introduce an insulator into an electrical connection?
Just because the car may still run is not a reason to use inferior procedure.


Because that is the best and correct way to keep a connection sealed.

It's not inferior -- dielectric greases are routinely used in this fashion in telecommunications and electrical connections exposed to the elements. RF signal transfer is a lot more sensitive than a starting battery primary connection, and that's the best way to weather-proof an RF connection (both for transmitters and receivers).

You'll find the same practice routinely in mains service panel components and connections that move a lot more juice than a car battery.

It's also used in quite a few automotive harness connections.

We've also used this method in boating for decades, where salt water would otherwise eat the whole connection up in no time.

Maximum metal to metal conduction still occurs in the connection, and the dielectric fills the voids (that don't complete a circuit anyway) and surrounds the connection from the inside out, fully protecting it from moisture intrusion.

Just slapping greases and caulks on the outside of a connection is no better than wrapping it with electrical tape. That does a better job at keeping trapped moisture in a connection than keeping it out -- a decidedly inferior method.


Wrong.
It is an insulator, so seal the joint afterwards. I like Rustoleum spray paint. No long explanation is necessary.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Wrong.
It is an insulator, so seal the joint afterwards.

Why don't you go and TRY putting grease on first? I can tell that you've never actually done it, otherwise you'd realize how incorrect is your assertion that the join will be insulated if grease is interposed between the two conductors.

And, pursuant to a conjecture I made a couple of weeks ago, I have discovered that even the old lead battery-cable terminals work just fine with grease in between them and their posts. It seems the terminal and the post have different angles to their surfaces. This means that the terminal tends to "wedge" the grease out of the way, and ends up making perfect electrical contact with the post.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
No long explanation is necessary.


But a correct answer is. The grease does not insulate the connection, it cannot resist the metal-to-metal contact.
 
Count one more for "grease it first" and also "tight enough that you can't move it with your hand" here.

The Eclipse is very prone to terminal corrosion and as such I'd recommend using tune-up grease or better (such as crank sensor grease) silicone dielectric grease rather than a cheap substitute that would work well for so many other cars.
 
Hello,thanks for the replies.

I just loosen the bolts a little. I also bought some battery terminals protector (those red and green round things). You can see them on this picture on the bottom of the terminals:

cimg4203.jpg


I used this tool from the 99 cents store to clean the terminals (this tool did a pretty good job,the terminals are like new, very clean and shinny):

cimg4206l.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Wrong.
It is an insulator, so seal the joint afterwards.

Why don't you go and TRY putting grease on first? I can tell that you've never actually done it, otherwise you'd realize how incorrect is your assertion that the join will be insulated if grease is interposed between the two conductors.

And, pursuant to a conjecture I made a couple of weeks ago, I have discovered that even the old lead battery-cable terminals work just fine with grease in between them and their posts. It seems the terminal and the post have different angles to their surfaces. This means that the terminal tends to "wedge" the grease out of the way, and ends up making perfect electrical contact with the post.



Wrong again...
Over the many decades of working on cars for a living, I have tried and seen it all.
An insulator is not a conductor.
It does not conduct electricity.
Therefore it is unsuitable between surfaces that should conduct electricity.
A third grader can see that.
Like I already said, the car can still run.
But this does not justify improper technique.
It is not ideal, not the best, and improper thinking.
 
Most of my batteries have been side terminal (GM vehicles) so I just snug them. On top post batteries, I always tighten them to the very verge of stripping out the bolts. No issues getting them off again three or four years down the road. Loosen, wobble the terminals a little, off they come.

I've never used grease or anything else on the terminals. Mom and Dad always use the felt washers, I never have.

Absolutely zero problems with leaking or corrosion on any battery, ever.
 
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